[spidermonkey09]

I stand corrected!

[SamT]

The placement is lower than the rock scar. Wouldn't be surprised if it's been there all along.

I'm sure its been there since the 50s.. since its using a drilled hole from an old aid bolt.. IIRC.. there might be 3 or 4 holes in a row. (rather similar I expect to the Adam Smiths ones??)

I was joking about the petzl pulse as I suspect the old bolt holes are smaller than 8mm (1/4 inch??) and will certainly be too shallow in depth..  but it would be hilarious if you could fit one in.. or better still 3 or 4. 

[SamT]

Has anyone fall tested the ball nut thing??

It would be interesting to see the outcome of falling expecting to be held on a rope, have it rip and dump you. As opposed to a more controlled fall/jump onto mats.

Nice confidence piece though.

[T_B]

Surely the person/people to ask on this are Tom R / P Widdy given they've lapped it dressed as bananas and other things?

Paul- I posted a pic above of the piece that Outside loan out. I used it 3yrs ago. Not sure what brand it is.

[T_B]

Has anyone fall tested the ball nut thing??
Nice confidence piece though.

It seems pretty good and you can put it in whilst stood on the big hold on the arête. Not sure I’d want to test it but I reckon it would definitely slow you down.

[Paul B]

Paul- I posted a pic above of the piece that Outside loan out. I used it 3yrs ago. Not sure what brand it is.

Missed that!

It's one of those removable aid bolts which (again, from memory) someone got stuck in ME at one point?

Looks like Climb Tech:
https://www.ropeaccessequip.com/products/climb-tech-removable-bolt

[highrepute]

Yeah, I def bouldered on both of them but prob only got to the shot holes on edge lane.

A friend of mine broke their leg jumping off from below the shot holes on to a pad i.e. not a weird landing. I think it'd be pretty memorable if you had gotten up there.

I think I have a video of this.

The move to shotholes feels a little bit go-ey if you on the shorter side. Go-ey enough to put me off attempting it at that height. Go-ey enough to break a leg if you come off not fully in control.

[Paul B]

I've asked Caminati (I'm sure he'll say hi when he gets round to replying) as I had the dubious honour of belaying his flash ascent. He definitely owned a few sliders/ball nuts as I can remember a photo I took of one he used on Braille Trail (it was red).

Fired up the old hard drive to look and I've got an early shot of him starting up on the arete and all that's hanging on his harness is a large nut and a tricam (blue). I've just zoomed in on the gear higher up to see that the lovely lightweight biner gates are both touching 

[Tom de Gay]

I've asked Caminati (I'm sure he'll say hi when he gets round to replying) as I had the dubious honour of belaying his flash ascent. He definitely owned a few sliders/ball nuts as I can remember a photo I took of one he used on Braille Trail (it was red).

Fired up the old hard drive to look and I've got an early shot of him starting up on the arete and all that's hanging on his harness is a large nut and a tricam (blue). I've just zoomed in on the gear higher up to see that the lovely lightweight biner gates are both touching 

Seems to be a route for gear sketchiness. I accidentally lead it on a single half rope. Missed the top jug and caught a sloper next to it. Great days.

[i_a_coops]

A friend of mine broke their leg jumping off from below the shot holes on to a pad i.e. not a weird landing. I think it'd be pretty memorable if you had gotten up there.

I think I have a video of this.

 

Yeah my friend's gear was blocking the shothole so I didn't want to slap for it, put a heel around the arete and used a high smear instead but the smear popped as I was creeping my fingers into the bottom hole and I came off kind of spinning. I think I did land on a really old shit pad off to the side of the main stack though, and mainly on one leg....

I remember thinking at the time (2010) that you could maybe tie off a sturdy nail in the hole where I presume the slider thing goes, so I guess the placement must be at least that old. Psyched to hear there's potentially something rated to place there! Might have to get back on it....

[SamT]

Yeah, its a clip up now.