[remus]

It seems like there's been some interest in the stuff I do through climbing-history.org, so I thought a thread to discuss anything to do with the history of climbing could be fun.

To whet the whistle, Gordon Jenkin recently donated the diaries of Arnis Strapcans to the Mountain Heritage Trust, and I was able to have a browse through them, scan a few pics and take a few notes. He was a prolific climber in the south west throughout the 1970s before he sadly died in the alps in 1980. If you've spent any time trad climbing down there you'll likely be familiar with some of his routes: Main Wall Eliminate at Avon, The Exorcist on Lundy, Heart of the Sun, Atmosfears etc.

His diaries and first ascent write ups are amazingly well written and well worth a browse (click 'more' under pics and vids): https://climbing-history.org/climber/1808/arnis-strapcans

[remus]

And next up a question: is there a vid of Chris Sharma on Just Do It? I'm sure I've heard of something but can't remember what it is. One of Mike Call's ones from that kinda time perhaps?

[Ru]

And next up a question: is there a vid of Chris Sharma on Just Do It? I'm sure I've heard of something but can't remember what it is. One of Mike Call's ones from that kinda time perhaps?

Think it was on a DVD called Fast Twitch, which was by Mike Call, mid - 90s, '97? He takes his jumper off halfway up.

It's here, and says it's free to watch, but I've not watched it again to check if it does in fact have Just do It on:

https://www.mntnfilm.com/en/film/fast-twitch-1997

[grimer]

Yea I remember the jumper taking off scene.

[remus]

Good knowledge, cheers both. It was the top off scene I was after

The link on there doesn't seem to be working for some reason, I'll see if I can hunt down a copy of the film somewhere.

[andy popp]

To whet the whistle, Gordon Jenkin recently donated the diaries of Arnis Strapcans to the Mountain Heritage Trust, and I was able to have a browse through them, scan a few pics and take a few notes. He was a prolific climber in the south west throughout the 1970s before he sadly died in the alps in 1980. If you've spent any time trad climbing down there you'll likely be familiar with some of his routes: Main Wall Eliminate at Avon, The Exorcist on Lundy, Heart of the Sun, Atmosfears etc.

Amazing stuff. I started climbing in 1978, in the Avon Gorge, where Arnis Strapcans' reputation loomed large. He has always been an almost legendary figure to me as a result.

[duncan]

To whet the whistle, Gordon Jenkin recently donated the diaries of Arnis Strapcans to the Mountain Heritage Trust, and I was able to have a browse through them, scan a few pics and take a few notes. He was a prolific climber in the south west throughout the 1970s before he sadly died in the alps in 1980. If you've spent any time trad climbing down there you'll likely be familiar with some of his routes: Main Wall Eliminate at Avon, The Exorcist on Lundy, Heart of the Sun, Atmosfears etc.

His diaries and first ascent write ups are amazingly well written and well worth a browse (click 'more' under pics and vids): https://climbing-history.org/climber/1808/arnis-strapcans

These are great. As Andy says, a legendary figure in Bristol climbing circles. I seconded Atmosfears in the 90s when I was going well: it was bold, a bit loose, steep for Avon, and would have been hard even with two rest points. I'd love to do Wall of Prey.

[Tony]

Just to highlight that Arnis, alongside Mick Fowler, also contributed some impressive routes to the Outer Hebrides, e.g. Panting Dog Climb on the seldom visited but extremely impressive Creag Dubh Dibidale, https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/tamnasbhal-10837/panting_dog_climb-139450

[andy popp]

I seconded Atmosfears in the 90s when I was going well: it was bold, a bit loose, steep for Avon, and would have been hard even with two rest points.

Out of interest, I took a look on UKC - Atmosfears has a total of nine ascents logged, not all of them leads.

[remus]

Just to highlight that Arnis, alongside Mick Fowler, also contributed some impressive routes to the Outer Hebrides, e.g. Panting Dog Climb on the seldom visited but extremely impressive Creag Dubh Dibidale, https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/tamnasbhal-10837/panting_dog_climb-139450

Thanks Tony, I've made a note of this ascent on ch. Amazing breadth of climbing he did in the period he was active!

[Dingdong]

Good timing on this thread as this video just came out https://youtu.be/V8-nrzA_3KQ?si=Q3bZ9mq03R23cf_H

[Duma]

https://www.instagram.com/p/C2aWynONt7z/?igsh=dnFhZ21oY3BtcWk5

Nice little nugget re the FA of Biceps Mou

[spidermonkey09]

Good timing on this thread as this video just came out https://youtu.be/V8-nrzA_3KQ?si=Q3bZ9mq03R23cf_H

Thats really good. Well done Stan!

[remus]

https://www.instagram.com/p/C2aWynONt7z/?igsh=dnFhZ21oY3BtcWk5

Nice little nugget re the FA of Biceps Mou

Great Instagram account that, love the little stories and great they're putting the effort in to do French and English. Must be so much don't history that's french only.

[YorkshireTea]

Good timing on this thread as this video just came out https://youtu.be/V8-nrzA_3KQ?si=Q3bZ9mq03R23cf_H

Thats really good. Well done Stan!

Much appreciated! Not a super regular poster on here but definitely have my eye on this thread for some inspiration.
Any ideas throw em my way!

[slab_happy]

https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2024/jan/21/john-bulmer-cambridge-night-climbers

[remus]

https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2024/jan/21/john-bulmer-cambridge-night-climbers

That was a nice read, thanks!

[remus]

Bit of an open offer based on some conversations elsewhere, but if anyone has any digital material you think is of interest (pics of a cool FA, vids of interesting repeats, guidebook draft material etc.) I'd be happy to sort out some long term storage via climbing-history.org.

If you'd be happy making it public that'd obviously be cool, but if you just want somewhere safe for it and want to keep it private I'd be happy to help with that too.

Just drop me a DM.

[Stewart]

As far as historical videos go, i always love this Dumby '99 vid.

[remus]

Enjoying this episode of The Enormocast https://open.spotify.com/episode/1rvb7V4CnHDiVKmaIK907F?si=21OrMonxRueHzU2810IkOg

The first part is an interview with David Smart, a climber and author who has written some (excellent) biographies, most recently of Royal Robbins.

The second part is an interview with Robbins, recorded in 2012.

[remus]

Bit of a niche one, but don't suppose anyone has a copy of Pat Aments 2009 film 'The Disciples of Gill'?

[remus]

Anyone know if Steve Dunning's dyno Super Furry Animal at Slipstones has had a repeat?

[remus]

I thought I saw a reference somewhere to Burn Out at Apremont being the first 7B+ in the forest, did I imagine this or is it true?

[slab_happy]

Bit of a niche one, but don't suppose anyone has a copy of Pat Aments 2009 film 'The Disciples of Gill'?

Yes, I do! Delayed reply because I had to locate it and retrieve it -- didn't want to make any promises until I knew I could actually lay hands on it. Do you want to borrow/copy it?

[jwi]

I thought I saw a reference somewhere to Burn Out at Apremont being the first 7B+ in the forest, did I imagine this or is it true?

I quickly checked wikipedia ( https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Site_d%27escalade_de_Fontainebleau ) and I like that they only list the first for every full lettergrade (except Surplomb de la Mée), so no luck there!

[Tom de Gay]

Surely not. Were Bleausards really climbing sit-starts on obscure boulders in obscure areas in the late 70s?

The plus grades were a later addition to the scale (not sure when, early 80s?), hence there being not very many 6C+, 6B+ etc. So I guess the first 7B+ would probably have been a 7B or C originally.

Edit: also, I don't think the first ascensionist was active until the late 80s

[Will Hunt]

Surely not. Were Bleausards really climbing sit-starts on obscure boulders in obscure areas in the late 70s?

Of only tangential relevance, but people obsessing over weird bits of rock is older than you might think.
Gremlin's Wall, E4 6b, Ilkley Rocky Valley, unstarred. Climb Flake Climb but boldly venture up the wall (about 3m tall) right of the final flake. FA Roy Heilds 1953.

A very significant lead by a local expert who spent the summer bivouacking in The Valley. Probably the hardest on gritstone anywhere at the time, it was dismissed by many who thought it impossible for the day and was omitted in the 1961 guidebook until its rediscovery by Al Manson in 1977.

Maybe Heilds was the Gaskins of his day? I've gone up to lead it and been pretty sure I'd do it but didn't think the risk of hitting my ankles on the ledge you climb above was worth the 0-star reward. Did it with a rope above after and it's very obvious what you have to do and not massively hard, so could be top end 6a/low end 6b. Regardless, very impressive for the early 1950s! It's really uninspiring but obviously Heilds could see that it would go and couldn't get the idea out of his head.

[mrjonathanr]

Bit of an open offer based on some conversations elsewhere, but if anyone has any digital material you think is of interest (pics of a cool FA, vids of interesting repeats, guidebook draft material etc.) I'd be happy to sort out some long term storage via climbing-history.org.

If you'd be happy making it public that'd obviously be cool, but if you just want somewhere safe for it and want to keep it private I'd be happy to help with that too.

Just drop me a DM.

Sent you a link

[webbo]

Surely not. Were Bleausards really climbing sit-starts on obscure boulders in obscure areas in the late 70s?

Of only tangential relevance, but people obsessing over weird bits of rock is older than you might think.
Gremlin's Wall, E4 6b, Ilkley Rocky Valley, unstarred. Climb Flake Climb but boldly venture up the wall (about 3m tall) right of the final flake. FA Roy Heilds 1953.

A very significant lead by a local expert who spent the summer bivouacking in The Valley. Probably the hardest on gritstone anywhere at the time, it was dismissed by many who thought it impossible for the day and was omitted in the 1961 guidebook until its rediscovery by Al Manson in 1977.

Maybe Heilds was the Gaskins of his day? I've gone up to lead it and been pretty sure I'd do it but didn't think the risk of hitting my ankles on the ledge you climb above was worth the 0-star reward. Did it with a rope above after and it's very obvious what you have to do and not massively hard, so could be top end 6a/low end 6b. Regardless, very impressive for the early 1950s! It's really uninspiring but obviously Heilds could see that it would go and couldn't get the idea out of his head.

I think this is pure bollocks given the guy was using aid on VS’s I spent time belaying Al Manson when he was trying this and it took him numerous sessions to do it. He was absolutely staggered when he heard the retro claim. If some one like Austin, Jimmy Fullalove or Eric Lilley had claimed it maybe but Ron Hields was a VS punter.

[AndyR]

I think this is pure bollocks given the guy was using aid on VS’s I spent time belaying Al Manson when he was trying this and it took him numerous sessions to do it. He was absolutely staggered when he heard the retro claim. If some one like Austin, Jimmy Fullalove or Eric Lilley had claimed it maybe but Ron Hields was a VS punter.

This is the reason I still check UKb - best post in a decade!

[remus]

Bit of a niche one, but don't suppose anyone has a copy of Pat Aments 2009 film 'The Disciples of Gill'?

Yes, I do! Delayed reply because I had to locate it and retrieve it -- didn't want to make any promises until I knew I could actually lay hands on it. Do you want to borrow/copy it?

Ah that's amazing, thanks so much for digging it out! Yeah I'd love to borrow it if that's ok? I'll drop you a DM.

[SA Chris]

Anyone know if Steve Dunning's dyno Super Furry Animal at Slipstones has had a repeat?

Surprised at this if no-one?