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Wythenshawe for ‘Europe’s largest climbing centre’
Fiend:
--- Quote from: gme on January 19, 2024, 10:40:58 am ---and 5k is barely more than walking, 5+ VS at most. Its not a training program.
--- End quote ---
Random off-topic DVT-patient outlier post here, but I'm not sure if I could ever do 5k, or if was possible, how many multiple months I could take to get. My best ever flat road-run in Glasgow (when I was doing it semi-regularly) was 3.4km and the last 400m of that was so hard I had be bellowing and swearing to get through it - of course being in the Weeg no-one batted an eyelid. The idea of reaching 5km was unfathomable.
Most VS-ey punters who have been conned by the industry into thinking they need a training plan need nothing of the sort, they usually just need to do a few basic tweaks to their mindset (like sm09's example of changing from always flashing problems at the wall to working them). I wrote an article on UKC about this many years ago and whilst it's very much NOT for anyone on this forum I think the core principles still stand up.
stone:
--- Quote from: gme on January 19, 2024, 10:40:58 am ---couch to 5k is free and its purely motivational as you become part of a group. Its about making people believe you can do it.
and 5k is barely more than walking, 5+ VS at most. Its not a training program.
--- End quote ---
An essential aspect of any sort of teaching/coaching is imbuing self belief. Causing the person to genuinely believe that yes they are perfectly capable of running 5k, getting a PhD, learning to read, climbing 7a, winning a tennis Grand Slam or whatever.
Having a professional expert asses someones current climbing ability and physical attributes, hear about their lifestyle etc and then give a plan tailored to all of that and express an informed opinion that it could get them climbing 7a -That would be just what was needed to imbue self belief for some people.
stone:
--- Quote from: Fiend on January 19, 2024, 08:38:49 pm ---Most VS-ey punters who have been conned by the industry into thinking they need a training plan need nothing of the sort, they usually just need to do a few basic tweaks to their mindset (like sm09's example of changing from always flashing problems at the wall to working them). I wrote an article on UKC about this many years ago and whilst it's very much NOT for anyone on this forum I think the core principles still stand up.
--- End quote ---
Someone who I climb with (who climbs 8b) is on a Lattice plan. As far as I can work out, he seems to spend his time flashing problems at the wall. He certainly says I need to do that to be less crap. I'm suspect he is right about me, but I was surprised it was optimal for him since he has superb technique but is "weak for his grade". My guess was that Lattice worked around what got him psyched and trying hard or something.
For myself, my guess is that flashing problems at the wall would make me less crap in his eyes, in that I wouldn't be such a dunce in working out moves etc. But my aspiration is to eventually succeed on my sieges, not really to be able to redpoint with dignity at a sensible grade. My impression is that Lattice very much take into account what the climber wants to achieve however odd that may be.
joe-m:
--- Quote from: Fiend on January 19, 2024, 08:38:49 pm ---
--- Quote from: gme on January 19, 2024, 10:40:58 am ---and 5k is barely more than walking, 5+ VS at most. Its not a training program.
--- End quote ---
Most VS-ey punters who have been conned by the industry into thinking they need a training plan need nothing of the sort, they usually just need to do a few basic tweaks to their mindset (like sm09's example of changing from always flashing problems at the wall to working them). I wrote an article on UKC about this many years ago and whilst it's very much NOT for anyone on this forum I think the core principles still stand up.
--- End quote ---
My impression is that most training plans for those at the lower end of things would mainly just be prescribing more focused climbing i.e a session being focused on projecting with proper rests or trying to flash everything, as opposed to doing neither while getting distracted by talking to your mates and drinking coffee, perhaps with a bit of fingerboarding and conditioning/injury prevention thrown in.
Is it necessary to progress, probably not, does it help especially if you’ve not got a training background, I’d say so. I certainly wasted a lot of time trying to get better by “just going climbing” which left we plateaued at font 6c+\7a projecting level.
mrjonathanr:
Joe, from a position of relative ignorance, I always thought their great skill was in knowing how to structure intensity and rest to achieve the desired effect.
--- Quote from: stone on January 20, 2024, 08:39:29 am --- But my aspiration is to eventually succeed on my sieges, not really to be able to redpoint with dignity at a sensible grade. My impression is that Lattice very much take into account what the climber wants to achieve however odd that may be.
--- End quote ---
You might find Ollie Torr’s podcast with Nugget worth a listen. I thought he was really interesting, which is not always the case with climbing podcasts.
https://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ollie-torr
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