I think the point of the test is to just have an additional piece of data that can be standardised across the board and measured against a similar cohort to then give you a metric you can improve upon, it’s not secret that those results don’t necessarily reflect how you climb, after all it’s a skill sport first and foremost. …you can’t specifically say a score = a grade but I think across a large dataset that’s what it might show. …This data as well as strength and conditioning, flexibility etc all are part of a bigger picture …
Why not measure using a metric that does correlate well with crimpy bouldering?
I really think this is counter productive to 99% of peoples progression.
Most climbers suck at climbing and need to gain experience doing purposeful climbing on rock …I'm bad on slopey feet, bad on small feet, bad at bridging, bad at heels, …key is just to spend more time developing these skills on rock rather than anything else I think. …spending more time rock climbing on rocks of the right style can be quite hard if you also have a job!
I quite rarely pull on <10mm holds outdoors. No a single hold that small on something like a Moonboard.Especially for sport climbing I think what you can do on a decent edge with 1-arm is usually more relevant than rat crimps (though maybe 15mm would be more relevant than 20mm above a certain level?).
I think if we’re honest we have ample time to improve, but little inclination to spend it on climbing we suck at. Therefore plateau. When did you last purposely spend time on those styles of climbing you say you suck at, versus spending time doing styles you’re good at and enjoy?
As a Yorkshire based boulderer (predominantly on gritstone), I rarely pull on a good flat edge
You could guarantee to improve a client’s grade. The caveat is it would be specific to styles of climbing they suck at. The training? Going climbing on styles they suck at. It wouldn’t be enjoyable to begin with.
This leads to a business opportunity missed by lattice. GME you may want to take note.
Quote from: gme on January 15, 2024, 09:56:20 amI really think this is counter productive to 99% of peoples progression. I broadly agree with the sentiment here - maybe not that it's counterproductive per se, but that it's a distraction.
Wonder if there's a lattice equivalent for fell-running yet. A lot of the things that can be said about 'romantic old school reasons for getting into climbing' can be said about reasons for getting into fell-running.
This leads to a business opportunity missed by lattice. GME you may want to take note. You could guarantee to improve a client’s grade. The caveat is it would be specific to styles of climbing they suck at. The training? Going climbing on styles they suck at. It wouldn’t be enjoyable to begin with.
A mate of mine runs a "mountain running guide service" in Norway. People actually pay to be shown where to go for a run. The mind boggles.
I will say, when trying something exceptionally hard it’s quite easy to get injured if your body isn’t robust enough - a lot of the times this can be offset by training along with climbing, which is what I mostly use it for, since training my shoulders and elbows have become bulletproof compared to a few years back where I’d get elbow tendinitis from doing compression problems around 7B, I can now project 8A compression without issues
Quote from: Dingdong on January 15, 2024, 10:56:06 amI will say, when trying something exceptionally hard it’s quite easy to get injured if your body isn’t robust enough - a lot of the times this can be offset by training along with climbing, which is what I mostly use it for, since training my shoulders and elbows have become bulletproof compared to a few years back where I’d get elbow tendinitis from doing compression problems around 7B, I can now project 8A compression without issuesI like this, this is what I need the most - have found for a number of years that when I step up training/try hard projects I get injured with shoulders and elbows being weak links.Do you mind sharing what sort of exercises you did to achieve bulletproofing? Thanks.
Quote from: Rocksteady on January 15, 2024, 02:14:58 pmI like this, this is what I need the most - have found for a number of years that when I step up training/try hard projects I get injured with shoulders and elbows being weak links.Do you mind sharing what sort of exercises you did to achieve bulletproofing? Thanks. weighted one arm shrugs, shoulder rotations seated and/or pronated, Arnold press
I like this, this is what I need the most - have found for a number of years that when I step up training/try hard projects I get injured with shoulders and elbows being weak links.Do you mind sharing what sort of exercises you did to achieve bulletproofing? Thanks.
Dingdong and mrjonathanr have reminded me to be more assiduous with such injury prevention conditioning exercises. I know what they say about this is spot on. I think this is especially true for "naturally weaker" people such as myself.
I'm with Gav; at the lower end of people being sold training plans (and this week alone I've seen a F7a personalised training plan testimonial!) it's a shortcut to achieving 'a thing' (e.g. a given grade) without ample consideration of what that might mean for the future. I led myself down this path by prioritising training and board climbing to the detriment of actually climbing and it's demoralising, quite hard and slow to correct those issues in the future when you're used to simply relying on being stronger than what's in front of you.
This isn’t meant to knock, I’d be genuinely curious to see some robust significance.