UKBouldering.com

[Yorkshire] [Hawkcliffe] 4 new problems and 2 projects (Read 5775 times)

User deactivated.

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1262
  • Karma: +87/-1
I'm currently updating the guide, but the excerpt below shows the new things relating to this thread.

Hopefully I can get some grade opinions before finishing the guide as I'm doing the usual thing where you're sure a problem is going to be X and then as soon as you climb it you want to go with X-2. It's The Miners' Strike in this case that i'm not sure about (originally this went left at the end but I did the direct finish last night and decided to scrap the left finish as it's not as good and I don't think it makes sense being a separate problem).





And a map might be useful (ignore the X's - unfilled page numbers):


Dingdong

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 597
  • Karma: +44/-9
I'm currently updating the guide, but the excerpt below shows the new things relating to this thread.

Hopefully I can get some grade opinions before finishing the guide as I'm doing the usual thing where you're sure a problem is going to be X and then as soon as you climb it you want to go with X-2. It's The Miners' Strike in this case that i'm not sure about (originally this went left at the end but I did the direct finish last night and decided to scrap the left finish as it's not as good and I don't think it makes sense being a separate problem).





And a map might be useful (ignore the X's - unfilled page numbers):



Having been on this roof I can attest to how good it is. Go get on it if you’re in the area!

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 8177
  • Karma: +661/-121
    • Unknown Stones
Looks really good, Liam, nice work!
I can imagine that becoming quite popular. I've always parked here: https://www.google.com/maps/@53.8928374,-1.9349915,3a,75y,269.63h,69.53t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1si6ixv1eqp2cG8CIqh04m6A!2e0!7i16384!8i8192?entry=ttu

I can imagine that getting full/churned up. Have you used any alternative parking? I think it's legal to park on the road there so long as you're well off the bend, but I'm not sure I'd want to. I had a look for alternative parking nearby and not sure I'd want to try it here:
https://www.google.com/maps/@53.8937735,-1.9353385,3a,15y,10.75h,88.25t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1smVZdeCNYqqQ3gbY_Aq-pFg!2e0!7i16384!8i8192?entry=ttu

Mind you, they might share?
https://www.google.com/maps/@53.8937459,-1.935478,3a,15y,259.01h,83.28t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1seIKSt7Ivsc8aq_e_7mT0nQ!2e0!7i16384!8i8192?entry=ttu

User deactivated.

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1262
  • Karma: +87/-1
Will, yes the parking could become an issue. Not so much due to space as the grass verge is massive (it goes all the way around the bend), but it is starting to get a bit muddy close to the lay-by.

The first time I ever visited Hawkcliffe, I didn't really know where I was going and first tried to park on the little lane going down to the farm on the other side of the road. We spoke to the farmer and straight away he asked if we were climbers. After having a chat he directed us to the grass at the other side of the road and didn't seem to care as long as we weren't in the way of his tractors / wagons.

It won't look great if the grass gets totally churned up but it would take quite a bit of traffic to do so and unfortunately it's already a bit of a dump around the parking due to litter, etc. I don't know if there's a better alternative.   


teestub

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2796
  • Karma: +178/-4
  • Cyber Wanker


The first time I ever visited Hawkcliffe, I didn't really know where I was going and first tried to park on the little lane going down to the farm on the other side of the road. We spoke to the farmer and straight away he asked if we were climbers. After having a chat he directed us to the grass at the other side of the road and didn't seem to care as long as we weren't in the way of his tractors / wagons.

I assume they weren’t bothered as that verge is likely council/highways property rather than the farm!

Roof looks great, hopefully we will get a decent spring again

spidermonkey09

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3117
  • Karma: +173/-4
That verge looks pretty big on street view. I'd be surprised if a passing bobby had any issues with parking there as they'd likely assume you were with the farm or feeding the horses or whatever. I'd go to considerable lengths to avoid parking anywhere near those Deliverance extras in Wills links...

PeteHukb

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 101
  • Karma: +17/-0
I really need to find a day of decent weather to go have a look, it's very close to me but I've only managed two or three fairly borderline (weather-wise) days out the whole winter. What are the conditions like? I've presumed from the aspect that going on a dry day when it's rained overnight/the day before is likely to be a wasted trip?

User deactivated.

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1262
  • Karma: +87/-1
Hawkcliffe seems to do remarkably well at staying dry after moderate rain. In the summer, I chanced it a few times and was surprised to find it dry. Unfortunately, it does just as well at remaining wet once it's defenses have been penetrated! Last night everything was dry, so this is probably the week to go.

Aside from this roof, other quality problems are The Throne 7B, Bladerunner 7B/+ (this is one of the hardest to get in condition so take advantage when dry!), Africa Wall 7A/+, Crisis 7C+, Rumble in the Jungle 7A+/B (height dependent), Sibudu 7C (close to being perma dry in summer, not in winter). All are only minutes apart when you know where you're going.

James Malloch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1731
  • Karma: +65/-1
How many pads would you recommend for the roof, Liam?

It’s only 20 mins from me so might make a nice alternative for after work sessions this year.

teestub

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2796
  • Karma: +178/-4
  • Cyber Wanker
Last night everything was dry, so this is probably the week to go.


Are you lamping there? I thought access was a bit delicate or is that not the case now?

Bradders

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2885
  • Karma: +138/-3
I've lamped there a couple of times now. In practice the foliage is so unbelievably dense, even now in the dead of winter, that no one is ever going to see the lights.

User deactivated.

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1262
  • Karma: +87/-1
How many pads would you recommend for the roof, Liam?

It’s only 20 mins from me so might make a nice alternative for after work sessions this year.

You'd want at least 4 as the roof travels quite far (steep!) and the finishes are highball. Most of the other boulders can be tackled with 2 pads.

Yossarian

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2364
  • Karma: +356/-5
Your latest batch of videos all look great Liam. It's miles away from here, but if / when I get up that way again I'm definitely syked to pop along to Hawkcliffe.

PeteHukb

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 101
  • Karma: +17/-0
I might go on Monday during school hours if anyone's keen to join forces.

User deactivated.

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1262
  • Karma: +87/-1
I might go on Monday during school hours if anyone's keen to join forces.

I'll be there tomorrow with a group of mates. I think Bradders was considering going on Monday though.

haydn jones

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1066
  • Karma: +96/-2
I could potentially be keen for Monday day time, im going tmrw so it depends how I get on tmrw I suppose.

Bradders

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2885
  • Karma: +138/-3
Yorkshire's busiest crag ATM. Big team went yesterday too.

I am worried about the parking. It'll so easily get chewed up by loads of traffic going up on the grass and cars could easily get stuck as it gets muddier.

Best alternative looks to be parking on the road further down towards Steeton, perhaps just past where you cross the wall? The road doesn't appear to be a clearway so I think parking on the road would be legal, although it's a busy road and even if you went onto the pavement a bit it'd still slow down traffic and create a hazard.

Not sure if there are any better options? It's illegal to park in the bus stop which is a shame as I imagine it's hardly ever used.

I think I have a few bits of rubber matting lying around which I could put down on the grass but might be a bit of an eyesore.

Also wondering if we really ought to sort out a formal access arrangement. Loads of people climbing over a wall carrying strange equipment into what appears to be private woodland surely isn't going to go unnoticed for long. I've no idea how you work out who the landowner is though. It's certainly not access land.

spidermonkey09

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3117
  • Karma: +173/-4
The RAD suggests an arrangement was reached in 1998 with the Thoreby Estate, whereby "The Estate is favourable towards climbers provided there is minimal disturbance and cars are parked sensibly."

I'm sure Bonjoy will be along at some point but I'd be very wary of preemptively seeking something out given its working well for now and the only person likely to be annoyed is the farmer, who I gather suggested the verge parking. Agree the parking is a concern though, I also thought the road was legit to park on but you might be taking your life in your hands getting out the car!

Edit, I've just had a search around and according to some minutes from a BMC meeting in 2017 Hawkcliffe had a change of ownership, so maybe the RAD is out of date. Pass!
« Last Edit: January 14, 2024, 08:08:31 am by spidermonkey09 »

PeteHukb

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 101
  • Karma: +17/-0
I've just done a land registry search out of interest and the owner hasn't changed since that RAD entry. Agree with Jim.

Bradders

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2885
  • Karma: +138/-3
Excellent news, I'll stop fretting then.

User deactivated.

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1262
  • Karma: +87/-1
10 cars today, but it seemed ok. Let's hope the grass survives another couple of months into spring and then I reckon it will remain ok once everything dries up. I suspect after initial interest, the number of visitors will die down again for next winter.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9996
  • Karma: +579/-10
I queried the access at Hawkcliffe last year with Mick Johnson (local access rep) in relation to the 2020 barrier and signage, this was his response:
Quote
Hi Jon ,went a year or so ago and spoke to some local residents. They said that the original estate still owned as per the current Gritstone guidebook. I emailed them and left a voicemail but received no reply. The resident also said he thinks the farmer opposite the access was fed up of people parking adjacent to his access and he has probably put up the Heras barrier and sign. Again I tried to see him but he was not in and I left a note to which I have received no reply.
A small number of climbers have contacted me directly re climbing and I have advised to do so providing they park considerately and not on the side of the road where the farm access is. To date I've had no climbers saying they've encountered any problems. It is very easy to walk in despite the fencing and notice. Personally I think the farmer has done this for his own reasons re parking.
As a crag it has always been somewhat esoteric despite having some good lines-it constantly needs re-cleaning and as such has never been over popular.
I can endeavour to sort again but unless climbers encounter opposition I think given the stature of the crag maybe adopt a wait and see attitude with the RAD updated accordingly re the above information.
Hope this is of some help.
I've updated the RAD a bit to reflect this.
It should be noted that the YMC guide suggests parking on the farm side of the road is okay, but this is now advised against.

As far as I can tell the 1997 access involved negotiations, a verbal agreement, and plans by the estate to draw up official signage and a formal written agreement. It seems the formalisation and signage never happened, but no substantial access problems have arisen since. For now I agree with others that the status quo is okay, but climbers should be very vigilant for any sign of the farmer or the landowner getting upset and follow this up immediately with Mick or myself.

tim palmer

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 739
  • Karma: +34/-0
Any chance this place is dry tomorrow?

User deactivated.

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1262
  • Karma: +87/-1
Any chance this place is dry tomorrow?

The forecast isn't looking great but if it's not raining too heavy. The steep stuff should stay dry up to the top outs. I'm hoping to go tomorrow.


northern yob

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 352
  • Karma: +42/-2
It wasn’t climbable today… a mate went, the roof was dry ish but no chance of topping out….

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal