[Tom de Gay]

Brid Klina, 350m 7c arete, Anica Kuk, Croatia

This may have just become a new life goal.... The low 7s and high 6s at Paklenica are savagely graded, how bad is this one?

Don't know, I have had a hard enough time on the 6's!

The steep face left of the arete is 8c, onsighted by Adam Ondra a few years ago. Nuts!

[El Mocho]

No idea about best, but my all time favourite line is Reservoir Dogs E8 7a at Widdop

I'm psyched to try that one! Have you been on it?

Nah, thought about it in the past, but I'm concerned that if I do have a properly look, it might set off a chain of events in which I suddenly find myself half way up it on the sharp end

Fairly steady to the gear, maybe E5/E6. Then a very hard boulder problem, 7C/+?

Horrendous up to the gear, then a nice boulder problem.

[jwi]

It's hard to get a good pic of the route, because it is deep in the Samson Canyon, but Les Naufragées in Verdon could also be mentioned for short multipitch routes.

[El Mocho]

Brid Klina, 350m 7c arete, Anica Kuk, Croatia

I might have done this one. I did a route, with a name a bit like that (25+ year memory), up that bit of rock. At the time I thought it got 7b/+ but it felt very stiff to me (I was probably on the route form of my life at this time, 1998 or so) Did various other big routes on the same trip from Triglav, Cham, Dollies and the only one which compared in line was Squirrels Ridge (Spigolo Scoiattoli) on the cima ovest but rock quality, climbing (and difficulty) were all way down.

[tk421a]

Arete cosqmiue, 8a

[spidermonkey09]

Horrendous up to the gear, then a nice boulder problem.

 

I always presumed it was going to be fully lank dependent having seen that video of Will Atkinson on it and rumours of pebbles snapping etc. I'm keen for a look at some point Liam.

[El Mocho]

Partage! Thanks you. Just spent 20 mins trawling bleau.info trying to find it.

I know it sounds a bit MAARGRET, but there was a vid a few hears back of El Mocho climbing a great looking arete at Font too. Pretty high (length of prob, not him).

Misericorde 7C+?

I'd forgotten about this vid. Classic 2000s fashions. The ending is great, who is the Brad Pitt esq fell runner? I recognise him somehow but can't put a name to the hair.

[Tom de Gay]

Brid Klina, 350m 7c arete, Anica Kuk, Croatia

I might have done this one. I did a route, with a name a bit like that (25+ year memory), up that bit of rock. At the time I thought it got 7b/+ but it felt very stiff to me (I was probably on the route form of my life at this time, 1998 or so) Did various other big routes on the same trip from Triglav, Cham, Dollies and the only one which compared in line was Squirrels Ridge (Spigolo Scoiattoli) on the cima ovest but rock quality, climbing (and difficulty) were all way down.

Nice! 7b+ in the old guide; 11 pitches of which one is 7b, two are 7b+. Description just says 'the climb is fine and airy' which I think is Croatian for 'desperate and terrifying'?

[andy_e]

The ending is great, who is the Brad Pitt esq fell runner? I recognise him somehow but can't put a name to the hair.

It's up there with Ned Attempts a New Line At Stanage and the "we're into showboating now Ryan?" video

[Pope B]

Surely if we're talking about great lines on chossy low quality rock then Skeleton ridge has to be on the list? It's got everything! (Apart from being at the tor)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/the_needles-2342/skeleton_ridge-38248#overview

[User deactivated.]

Arete cosqmiue, 8a

Fucking hell, that is perfect.

I'm keen for a look at some point Liam.

The other E8 i'm keen for is Charlie Don't Surf at Hawkcliffe. Amazing line - compression prow, into an arete, into face climbing. I put a rope down it once did it in two halves very quickly, but that was last summer. From memory it breaks down into something like a long f7A to the peg (no fall zone), then another f7A to the top.

Can't find a good photo, but here's a video still from: vimeo.com/97551841

[SA Chris]

I always liked the fading groove feature on Early Riser at Earl, shame the hard part is in a scary place. And the great looking Heartbeat City at Rylstone. Both candidates for a "tactical" approach for the strong boulderer about town.

[Bradders]

Arete cosqmiue, 8a

Came on to post exactly this. My goodness just look at it!

[andy popp]

On grit, Bloodrush is not to be overlooked ...



... but I think the Appointment with Fear prow is the most impressive piece of grit that I've seen.

Happily, both climb absolutely brilliantly.

[SA Chris]

Reading this thread you would swear Northumberland didn't exist.

[GazM]

Or Scotland. The Essence would have to be a contender for one of the best lines in Europe. Both due to the aesthetics of the climbing itself and the location.

[Fultonius]

Or Scotland. The Essence would have to be a contender for one of the best lines in Europe. Both due to the aesthetics of the climbing itself and the location.

Come on, you know the score. First we need 17 pages of arguing over the best line on Grit (and therefore Europe  ) before we can even consider branching out to other counties, lands etc....

[Fultonius]

Don't know, I have had a hard enough time on the 6's!

I remember narrowly onsighting a 6c+ down in the main gorge, when I was going well. It felt like one of the hardest & best onsight climbing experiences of my life - way harder, and more technical, than many 7bs and 7b+s I've done in Spain. I guess by 8c the grades are probably more settled across europe? (except or some old school sandbags).

I would expect that Anika Kuk route to still feel hard, even for 7c!

[SA Chris]

Or Scotland. The Essence would have to be a contender for one of the best lines in Europe. Both due to the aesthetics of the climbing itself and the location.

I did mention Malc's (jokingly) earlier. and Dalriada has had mention

[Tom de Gay]

A quarter of my trad suggestions were in Scotland, though sticking mostly to routes I've actually seen/tried/done. In the County, Transcendence/Purgatory prow does look impressive.

Sticking with the trad: hard famous lines at Annot (Le Voyage), Cadarese (Tribe), Valle Orco (Greenspit)… is there anything for mortals?

Likewise, Profile Wall – Firefox (E7)?

[chillax]

Split Arete, Polldoo Glen


Holy Jesus wall, Owey Hard to capture in a photo, but an immaculate piece of rock in an awesome location


Solidarity in Glenmacnass, probably the best Arete in Wicklow, can't find a decent pic

[teestub]

Spindle at Fairhead looks to fit the wow factor for boulders

https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=292459

[remus]

A quarter of my trad suggestions were in Scotland, though sticking mostly to routes I've actually seen/tried/done. In the County, Transcendence/Purgatory prow does look impressive.

Sticking with the trad: hard famous lines at Annot (Le Voyage), Cadarese (Tribe), Valle Orco (Greenspit)… is there anything for mortals?

Likewise, Profile Wall – Firefox (E7)?

I haven't been myself but there's supposed to be loads of good stuff at reasonable grades in Annot, I know a few friends who've been and had a great time in the E3-6 range. Good cracks apparently.

[SA Chris]

All the routes on Kilt Rock (Scotland's Devil's Tower?) look cool, even without Kilt Falls next door. Grey Panther looks the coolest though  https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/kilt_rock_staffin-685/grey_panther-5469#photos. Not done it though, Fultonius? GazM?

Also Arrow Route on Sron na Ciche. looks utterly unlikely at the grade, but the rock quality makes it possible. https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/sron_na_ciche-780/arrow_route-7739#photos and getting off the Cioch via Integrity is an amazing day out (we approached vie Cioch West but that wanders a bit).

[T_B]

The lines in Teplice (Czech) are amazing. These photos don’t really do it justice.









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