the shizzle > beta - bouldering

Cherry Falls RH - Almscliff

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haydn jones:
Tried this the other day, obviously the arete used on Crucis is out but there's some crimps (little 4mm edges) near to the arete that I used as an intermediate, is this how other people do the problem, or is it pure eliminate and jump straight to the top?

36chambers:

--- Quote from: Nemo on August 25, 2012, 06:43:15 pm ---The problem John Gaskins climbed back in 1993 was actually "Cherry Falls Right" - ie: get the Cherry Falls crimp with LH, match as best as possible with R and go again with R straight for break.  Dunno if it's been repeated.  Probably somewhere in the 8A - 8A+ ish range.

--- End quote ---

No idea whether this means the intermediates are out. Did your way still feel about 8A/+?

I'd guess that everyone who's logged this on UKC has done the 7B/+ version.

Nemo:

--- Quote ---"Tried this the other day, obviously the arete used on Crucis is out but there's some crimps (little 4mm edges) near to the arete that I used as an intermediate, is this how other people do the problem, or is it pure eliminate and jump straight to the top?" - haydn jones
--- End quote ---

It's Almscliff eliminate territory, so as you can probably guess, it's been done most ways that can be thought of. 

There's the "easy" way, which is around 7B ish, which is really just a variant on Crucis - ie: LH on Cherry falls crimp, and rock out to the sloping side of the diagonal break, then up to top break with LH.

Then as you say, you can get LH Cherry falls crimp and rock out to various crappy edges and use those to go again for the top break. Not done this, so not sure how hard.

And then just getting LH Cherry falls crimp and either chucking straight for the top break with RH, or potentially getting a bit of a match on the edge first.  This is what Gaskins did back in the 90s (which was written up wrongly in earlier guidebooks as what is now Identity Crisis to the L). And I believe it's been done by others (as in I vaguely remember conversations where people have said they've done it, but won't name names as I can't remember the specifics). 

IIRC, however you do it, it's supposed to be a fair bit easier than Cherry falls proper.  But I'm well out of the loop these days, so my memory could be talking nonsense.

haydn jones:
Nice one, cheers for the info, can't imagine matching it as the good part of the crimp is on the right hand side so you take it as greedy as possible to the right leaving no space to match.

Johnny Brown:
Gaskins tho innit. He could match on monos.

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