the shizzle > equipment
How small is too small?
teestub:
Have you tried something stiffer and lace up like a katana? Theoretically a stiffer mid sole should give you similar toe power without the crippling fit. I think lace ups generally fee stiffer than slipper equivalents just because of the structure that the laces adds.
mrjonathanr:
Toe power comes from the downward angle of the toe, according to Scarpa. Seems to make sense- super tight shoes force the knuckle up and toe down. Or shoes like Mago etc are designed that way without having to totally crunch your big toe.
Re Magos- I was underwhelmed by how soft the new ones are so bought a couple of pairs of the blue and yellow ones. They’re a lot stiffer.
mrjonathanr:
--- Quote from: Liamhutch89 on January 01, 2024, 11:15:23 am --- I went back to check the bananafingers sizing calculator and it reckons if I wear Instincts in a 7 then I should wear Mago's in a 6.5 :???: that is incomprehensible to me.
--- End quote ---
Don’t believe everything you read on t’interweb.
What’s the heel issue? Are they baggy? The Shamans (lace ups, the Velcro are too soft imo) have a shallow heel. This annoys me because I prefer the deeper heel cup but might suit you?
abarro81:
--- Quote from: mrjonathanr on January 01, 2024, 12:20:09 pm ---Re Magos- I was underwhelmed by how soft the new ones are
--- End quote ---
Yeah, they're not an edging shoe in any conventional way of understanding what that means IMO, despite what Scarpa says. I like them for bouldering and 10m routes but can't climb long routes in them due to the softness (even on steep ground - too soft for routes with kneebars IMO, I use a stockpile of resoled old red instinct laces or Booster S for 90% of my sport climbing).
mrjonathanr:
If they can do novelty runs of shoes surely it would be easy for them to do 2 versions of main lines? Ones with say a 1mm midsole for indoors and a 2mm version for outside?
The Boostic might be a good shoe then.
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