[stone]

I'm really prone to slipping into just repeating (or trying to repeat  ) boulder problems I've done before and indulging in zany epic sieges on sport routes that are out of my league. This year wasn't really much of an exception to that pattern if I'm honest.

My unthinking, go-to, grit outing is to Apparent North to re-repeat Hampers Hang and Sloper Traverse. I've had a couple of lovely outings doing that this year too. But -wait for it- I've also recently gone on some adventurous quests to undiscovered territory (for me) of classic problems five minutes from the parking at Burbage! I really enjoyed doing Breakfast which I hadn't seen before this year. I've also got the bit between my teeth after having unsuccessful but encouraging goes on The Nose and Mermaid -also inexcusably new to me!

On magnesium limestone bouldering I've also resolved to now focus on trying stuff I haven't done before. All I've managed is the very pleasant not-proper-problem of The-Undercut into the last moves of ChuckleVision. I'm pleased with progress on Alpha though.

Best routes I got up were Harderobe at Moat WCJ, The Squealer at Lorry Park and Beelzebub at Cheedale Cornice. I was especially pleased with The Squealer because it had always been wet whenever I'd gone to Lorry Park before. The last bank holiday weekend before the builders shut Lorry Park, Nicolas really wanted to finish off Dark Matter. We had a Saturday afternoon and a Monday morning. I was delighted to find The Squealer dry but had an ineffectual hot and bothered flounder. Nicolas also struggled on his route. I had to be dragged back on the Monday as I thought a morning on an East-facing crag was deranged. Sure enough it was sunny and roasting when we got there. But then after we'd got the clips in each route, it became overcast and windy and we both sent our routes -hurrah!

It would be very misleading of me to not include a forlorn epic siege report as that is how I really spend my climbing days. I guess I'm keeping the dream alive of overlapping halves on Nemesis every year it's dry for 20years  . Hot flushes and Harderbridge are now also due to join the set of more-than-one-season engagements 

On the sanity maintenance front, I've mercifully had barely a waver in my mental health this year. Years ago I had a manic/psychotic episode. I was really concerned afterwards but so far I've been spared another (fingers crossed). It's just an anecdote, but for me at the time it did make it less scary knowing of other people who'd been through similar. Back then, I was told to fill in a WRAP https://www.wellnessrecoveryactionplan.com/. I do try to take heed of that WRAP. I guess that would be recommended to anyone it might help by their healthcare professionals. I don't want to interfere in anyone else's mental health care.

[remus]

Top three boulder problems, UK

High and Dry 7A+, Sprotborough. Had a couple of great sessions here working through the best stuff on offer. First time there was a solo session and took some good wingers from the top of this which got the heart rate up. I came back better prepared for round 2 (i.e. with a spotter and more than one pad) and got it done. Amazing rock quality, great height and as good a landing as you could hope for. Classic, underrated eastern lime.

Elysium 7B+, Smeaton Edge. More eastern lime highball action. First session with a mate went fairly well so decided to come back for a solo session. It was going ok but I was lacking a bit of commitment for the last move, where you’re getting a bit high. I rallied and decided to just give it a good lash. It so nearly worked, but I fired off with a bit of backwards momentum, landed (feet first, thankfully) on the edge of the pad and pogo-sticked backwards down the hill headfirst into a bramble bush. It could have been a lot worse: thankfully I got away with a few scratches. Sensing I might be a bit nervous about coming back for round 3 I decided to rest up and have one last go (after my heart rate had dropped and my hands were a bit steadier!) which thankfully went more smoothly.

Made in Sheffield 7B, Houndkirk. Had some great solo sessions on this during the cold snap at the start of December. Pretty satisfying methodically working through the beta until it came together.

Top three sport routes UK

I had some great weekends at Kilnsey with my partner this year. It was my first time getting involved there and it was such a good scene. I really got into the swing of going up there each weekend, seeing the same faces and falling off the same projects.

The Ashes 7c+, Kilnsey. That sequence coming out of the eyes is just to die for. Faffed around for a couple of sessions trying to clip the bolt off the boss before a friend pointed out that you can clip it after moving right, so I temporarily stopped being a wimp and got it done.

The Bulge 8a, Kilnsey. Got a great spraydown before going up the first time which definitely knocked a couple of sessions off. I really enjoyed the sequence coming out of the groove, lovely techy climbing, and then into that little half rest before the meat. I was pretty boxed so skipped the mid-crux clip, then, now being totally boxed, nearly binned the move to the chains. Glad I found enough energy to claw the rope into the belay as it would have been an absolute monster of a fall from there.

The Currant 8a+, Moat Buttress WCJ. Lime? ✔️Traversing? ✔️Arbitrary? ✔️ Had loads of early season sessions on this, including lots of early, pre-work sessions to try and get some decent conditions on it. Such a fun process working out a sequence (and then re-qorking it as holds broke off), and WCJ is magical in the early morning when it’s just you and the swans, with that little floaty mist on the river.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Wings for Life 8a, Leonidio. Had a really fun trip out there in October with my partner Michelle and some Bristol pals (inc. Duma), and this route was the icing on the cake. I just love this style where you’re hanging around in knee bars, getting massively pumped and generally having a great fight. Ended up getting it done as my last proper route of the trip, and was able to bathe in that sweet glow of success all the way home.

Burning Fingers 8a, Calpe. Me and Michelle had a bit of an unexpected trip to Costa Blanca at the end of 2022/start of 2023. I’d been gearing up for a winter of bouldering so was completely unfit, so going out sport climbing was kind of nice in a way because there were no expectations. Michelle ended up with a project here so I was flitting around ticking off bits and pieces at the crag, usually in a session or two. To be honest none of the routes individually stand out that much, but it was so much fun supporting her through her proj and generally enjoying the mix of people we met at the crag.

Pope star 7c, Leonidio. I think I’m still pumped from this. Such good tufa questing, and a totally outrageous position from the moment you step off the ledge at the start. Had I been a bit fitter and/or a bit less shit at onsighting it would have been a good first go proposition, but as it was I had a lot of fun clawing my way up it second go.

Top three DWS

Adrenochrome 8a, Lulworth. One of my best ever climbing experiences. In my mind I’d put this route on a bit of a pedestal, so going ground up, slowly realising it was doable for me, and then gradually working my way higher and higher over a week or so was incredible. Pure, unadulterated DWS, straight to the vein.

A ~6b crack somewhere off a beach near Moraira on the Costa Blanca. Amazing adventure with Michelle on this one. It was getting towards the end of our Costa Blanca trip and I’d been scoping out some potential off some of the beaches. We ended up hiring a couple of SUPs for the day then went on a mission to see if we could find anything. It turned out to be a lot further than we thought to get to the cliff we’d scoped out, and as we rounded the headland the wind picked up a bit and visions of getting blown out to sea in a pair of swimming shorts reared large in my mind. Sticking close to the cliff line we quested on a little further until I found a line that didn't look too terrifying, and via some SUP acrobatics managed to hop on the line and get it done. In the end it was fairly straightforward climbing, but exploring that bit of the coast was mega. It’d be a great spot to explore a bit more thoroughly in October/November time when it’s a bit warmer and the sea is calmer.

Lulworth DWS work trip. Not a route as such, but after a mint week of DWS in Pembroke in 2022 I wanted to do something similar this year. A few people from work were also keen so we hired a little airbnb near Lulworth. For most of the other people on the trip they’d done very little DWS before, so getting to take everyone on a tour of all the classics was amazing. Watching your pals do Freeborn Man for the first time, as a route close to their OS limit, was wicked!

Top spankings

Subculture 8a, Kilnsey. Apparently this is one of the easier 8as at Kilnsey but it didn’t feel like it! The whole thing just feels hard, painful, and generally not that fun. Maybe I just need to try a bit harder? Or maybe just try some routes which are more fun.

Wedding planning, or lack there-of.

Top non-climbing

Mountain Heritage Trust and climbing-history.org. I became a trustee on the board this year and it’s been great meeting everyone else there who’s similarly passionate about the history of climbing and mountaineering in the UK. Similarly, I’ve really enjoyed pootling away on ch, whether it’s building new features on the site or trawling through old mags for tid-bits. There’s something very satisfying about finding a grainy little pic of someone making an FA, or some anecdote about where a route got it’s name from (e.g. Hooligan at Raven Tor)

Getting the van sorted. In reality it wasn’t actually much work as a friend did all the leg work for us (and did a mint job), but it’s been so good having a van again. It’s so good for weekends away and gives you so much flexibility. Maybe that’s just middle age speaking though.

[accynez]

Best of 2023

BOULDER

100 Bananas 7B+ - Not so secret crag near Ilkley

This is a pretty special problem. It just climbs so well, Knacky, powerful, subtle, all that's great about grit. I was desperate to do it as I thought it would get banned but with the recent agreed access hopefully it can be enjoyed by all going forward.

Block Arete 7B - Ilkley

Under appreciated line right there in plain sight. The top might need a quick scrub but once clean this old classic is great. Felt impossible on first acquaintance but its all there, just need to trust those smears. Landing needs a few pads but its close to the car park.

Bad Moon Rising 7B - Thorn Crag

A near perfect boulder in the finest of settings. As the sun dipped towards the horizon over the Irish Sea at 'Golden Hour' I managed this in a few goes to cap a memorable day.

UK TRAD

Gigantic E8 - Wilton

THE hard Lancs route IMO. When I started climbing in the quarries in the early 90's this was so far away from what might be possible. I'd looked at this a few times but with no real conviction, in the end it just needed a proper concerted effort over 2 sessions. On the same day I held Lincoln's ropes on the possible FA of the direct finish - Phil Kelly got in touch with Adam and apparently Gaskin's claimed this and the other LGP of linking Chocolate Girl into Ginormous. Gigantic is around 7c+, Ginormous 8a/8a+ and the Chocolate Ginormous link about 8b or so? Gaskins could quite possibly have done them?

Elvis E5 - Langdale

I didn't do a great deal of trad on sighting this year as I was away travelling in Eastern Europe all summer with the missus. Made a quick head point of The Beatles next door which isn't a great route and then decided to have a crack at this. Glad I did as it put up just the right amount of resistance. Punchy, well protected although its hard won and on great features and rock. A mini classic.

Last Temptation E6 - Thorn Crag

Had wanted to do this for years, there's a great photo of Dave Pegg on the FA. I decided to have a flash go at this as opposed to an OS or ground up ascent. Mainly because I wanted to do it 1st try but didn't think i'd be able to OS the gear. So I watched Sutty and Tanya TR it and Sutty demonstrated the gear so I knew how it climbed and the gear to take. In the end it was quite eventful for a short route. I placed the 1st 2 wires then down climbed. Next go I committed and tried to place a tiny cam but fumbled it and it dropped out the crack but I caught it in the crook of my arm. Managed to grab it in my teeth and stuff it in better, now 2 cams were buried but the outer 2 were only just in contact with the rock. At this point I was starting to pump out and couldn't decide wether to clip and risk the piece failing or to retreat to the bomber wire below. Anyway Sutty shouted go for it Nez its only 1 move and you're in so I clipped the cam and made the moves pretty much redlining. Afterwards I felt I'd got away with one as there was only that half in cam between me and the ground as its such a short route - perfectly formed though.

UK SPORT

Conehead 8a+ - Malham Upper Tier

This is a marmite route I think. Some people rate it and others think it's gash. I think its great. Utterly perplexing on the first few goes but for me it was all about learning to use the barnacle cluster! It's sharp but I never once split on it although you can't have many goes at the crux you can work the rest of it fine. The successful RP was one of those perfect moments when it all comes together, good conditions, feeling strong, climb really well and efficiently and have absolutely nothing left in the tank. All shared with a great crew as it was quite popular this year.

Stolen 8b - Kilnsey

In contrast this left me feeling quite empty. It was my hardest of the year and I had earmarked it as my main goal for the year so why the lack of satisfaction? I think its because I was fed up with Cold Steal and on the successful go I climbed it really badly but somehow scratched up it.

Superblue 7b+ - Creag Nan Luch

This is a cracking little route set in the wild landscape of the far NW. I love that area and with convenient sport climbing I can get my fix on days off from Munro bagging with the missus.

ABROAD

Chasin The Trane 7c - Frankenjura

I love a bit of history with my routes and this one is quite historical. Impressive stuff by Bacher in '81. Snatched first red point on a quick stopover on the way to Croatia. Nails for 7c

Proba Baletu 7b - Zakopane, Poland

Spent a couple of weeks or so in Zakopane and caught up with a local friend I met on the Norwegian oil rigs. He was always keen for me to visit him and his home town and whilst the main event is obviously in the High Tatras there's also some good valley cragging. This was the route he most wanted me to try and to see if I could OS it...I did, just! As the name suggests (Ballet Class/Rehearsal) its very technical on perfect little pockets and with a tough crux right at the top.

Triglav - Slovenia

Trekked hut to hut for 4 days in the Julian Alps and included scrambling up Triglav. Its bloody busy but we were blessed with perfect weather and its an impressive peak. One of the highlights of a 10 week tour of Eastern Europe.

[Fiend]

Top 3 boulder problems Font:
Aparte, Apremont Sully - a surprising and enthralling find after a much needed skin-resting rainy morning and a surprise nausea bout that alleviated enough to work out this beautiful varied problem.
Les Certitudes, Rocher Aux Demoiselles - the first problem after the weather switched and cooled down and my skin recovered and I really started to getting to grips with Font climbing and my inspiration there. Bloody great.
La Dalle Au Triangle Rouge, Justice De Chambergeot - I had to do at least one gratton death problem, and it happened to be this one. Very satisfying.

Top 3 climbs UK:
Wet Market, Fachwen - One of two challenging UK boulder problems I did in the entire year. A great one to work as it's consistently hard but never desperate.
Puma, Wilton 1 - Done during the lone autumn week where I finally stopped fucking around with mattocks and brooms and started focusing on climbing again, before I sprained my toe and the weather gashed out. I'd built Puma up in my mind and then climbed it very well which was nice.
Popcorn, Lime Kiln Quarry - One of two challenging UK sport routes I did in the entire year. Actually a retro-flash / amnesia-point with the essential prior knowledge of "It's hard for the grade and there's some cruxes between the breaks". I'd had a decent afternoon sampling bolehillbilly's new wares at the crag, and set off with the only expectation of "have a good fight and take a decent fall", well only one of those came true. Again I think I climbed it well.

Top 3 6 9 spankings:
Continued relapse of chronic depression (seemingly quite on trend this year).
Several sporadic mental health breakdowns.
Remaining single (a state I take to like a cat to water) due to my own ineffectiveness.

Worst climbing year for 2 decades.
Almost no trad successes at all and didn't even place gear in Wales / Lakes
Comfort zone shrunk to the size of a gnat's scrotum

Swapping golfer's elbow for tennis elbow with strained gracillis, sprained toe, and crunchy shoulder as support acts
Consistently declining and weaker in every climbing and weights measure
Got too obssessed with Lancs cleaning, fatigued my shoulders, fucked the whole summer season.

 

[Tom de Gay]

Top trips
– Easter in Font, nice to bump into several folk from yesteryear
– Ogawayama, primarily a pilgrimage to marvel at the ‘impossible slab’. Horrible conditions though.

Top boulders
Onde de Choc (7B), Apremont, – best problem I’ve done in the forest, and nice to get it second go. Old nemesis Carnage went first try this trip; hadn't tried Berezina before so pleased to scrabble up that one without too much an epic. In true Font style, the hardest of the bunch was Charcuterie (6C).

Top spankings
– Misread the topo for impossible slab in Ogawayama and somehow thought a V14 was a V2. Destroyed all skin sliding down it.
– Somewhat harrowing experience on an Ogawayama ‘highball V3’. The splitter crack at about 6m turned out to be an open seam followed by an endless egg topout covered in moss. Then a massive thunderstorm rolled in. Resorted to bridging into an adjacent tree, but it still felt like solid E5. Would have asked for a rescue had there been anyone around. Walked back to the lodge in torrential rain where the family were waiting; when my young son saw me he burst into tears.
– Stacked it from the top of Big Boss, missed the pad and landed on my arse. Pretty sore for a month after that!

[Will Hunt]

Subculture 8a, Kilnsey. Apparently this is one of the easier 8as at Kilnsey but it didn’t feel like it! The whole thing just feels hard, painful, and generally not that fun. Maybe I just need to try a bit harder? Or maybe just try some routes which are more fun.

Sack it off. I regret not knocking this down to 1 star in Northern Rock. It's objectively rubbish. The punchy start to the rest is good but then you've got this arbitrary traverse to a chain in the arse end of nowhere.

[remus]

Subculture 8a, Kilnsey. Apparently this is one of the easier 8as at Kilnsey but it didn’t feel like it! The whole thing just feels hard, painful, and generally not that fun. Maybe I just need to try a bit harder? Or maybe just try some routes which are more fun.

Sack it off. I regret not knocking this down to 1 star in Northern Rock. It's objectively rubbish. The punchy start to the rest is good but then you've got this arbitrary traverse to a chain in the arse end of nowhere.

Good knowledge, the thumb looks mint so that might be the target for next year.

[jakaitch]

‘It’s obviously not world class, but would be nice to have a reasonable go at the local stuff when visiting the parents.

The arête is definitely world class, long live the gorge 👀

[Johnny Brown]

    Top three boulder probs, UK
Really struggling to remember doing anything not on the circuit.
Jonathan Livingstone Steel Fingers/ Chiddo Libido Crook Hill
Not been up here for 18 years, fun session, perfect conditions on a cold crisp day afternoon after a crap morning. Both felt about 7A. Nice name Si!

    Top three boulder probs, abroad
First trip for quite a few years, first non-font bouldering trip. Great company, beautiful place.
Randy's Slab, Brione 7B
Really enjoyed this brilliant vertical arete, felt quite stiff but went down ok. Ego further boosted by partners' failing.
There is no spoon, Brione 7B
An hour previous, we had a fun twenty minute session in the morning sun, trying this cool frictionless scoop, before my partners gave up and moved on, while I moved into siege mode. Despite in theory 'suiting me', took more than I can recall giving suitable 7Bs in the past. Really took everything I had and more, fell off every single move repeatedly. The despair at sliding off the topout on the penultimate go was perhaps the year's most intense moment.
Black Mirror, Brione 6b+ / E4 6a
Another suitability match, great looking slab in a stunning location, just about highball at the crux then soloing. After some preliminaries stacked the mats and committed, very unexpectedly fell off, took the longest fall for years, thankfully didn't crook my back. Got back on and went fine. Watch the lichen!

    Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Pretty sure I only did three proper trad routes this year.
Jabberwocky, E2, Cwm Silyn
Was not on my radar at all, suggested by partner. UKC showed no ascents since a huge rockfall in 2020. Took a gamble and had the best mountain day out of the year. Pitch 2 pretty full on and E3 6a in my book unless you can reach past the move - felt like a big devious E5 with slightly easier moves. Some great moments of silence on the belays with just the ravens cronking. Topped out to the ridge n'all, Eryri magic.
Quartz Icicle, E2, Gogarth
Proof that God is a route-setter, great situation, threatens to get hard but throws just enough positive crumbs your way, brilliant. Sunstroke on top belay (second route of day) so 'escaped' across Dream in a bit of a daze.

    Top three sport routes UK
Don't recall clipping a bolt this year.

    Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Nope. Let's call Scotland abroad. Had an incredible week on Skye for Bonjoy's fiftieth, staying in the Coruisk hut. Really magical, highlights included kayaking out to meet Nige in a flat blue calm, loads of scrambling with Cofe, big team ascent of the Dubh ridge. The party had some grades in hand but it was not without interest. Hastily downclimbed the ab(!), then over Caisteal a' Garbh Choire and round to Gars Bheinn, 29 years since my last visit. Eagles and Divers aplenty. Good craic, good times, thanks Jon.
   
Top three new route/prob put up
Not that I recall.

Top Spankings
Brione. First bouldering trip for years, as much as I knew it would be more physical than I like I was still surprised by the physicality and my inability to cope. Banged my elbow last ditch training at the wall two days previous, got more and more painful over the week, ended up in hospital on my return. Basically stopped bouldering for six months.

THE. FUCKING. WEATHER.
I don't think it's just me, the last six months have been awful even by UK standards. Acquired a van, attempted to go on a family road trip through Wales. It rained, it blew, it was shit. Decided I prefer tents anyway. One goal this year was to get the boy into the mountains. Failed. Barely climbed, telescope mothballed, house is full of mould. Not done a winter route since 2018.

Other good stuff.
Mental health generally ok. Business etc buiser than I'd like. Had fun getting back into orienteering with the boy after a 35 year break. Ticked snowboarding my street off the bucket list. Fun day shooting rope access on the Dome. Lots of peering at magnified objects, mostly the very small (see above), through an enviable variety of scopes. Acquired a Kern DKM1 'mountaineer's' theodolite, restored it, surveyed a load of trigpoints and generated a huge spreadsheet of data giving me (the original intention) a great empirical appreciation of atmospheric refraction at the horizon, and therefore a better ability to weigh some of the more arcane arguments in archeoastronomy. BOOM.

[spidermonkey09]

Subculture 8a, Kilnsey. Apparently this is one of the easier 8as at Kilnsey but it didn’t feel like it! The whole thing just feels hard, painful, and generally not that fun. Maybe I just need to try a bit harder? Or maybe just try some routes which are more fun.

Sack it off. I regret not knocking this down to 1 star in Northern Rock. It's objectively rubbish. The punchy start to the rest is good but then you've got this arbitrary traverse to a chain in the arse end of nowhere.

Agree this is rubbish really. It's all extremely spanny and I don't really like the slab culture traverse. Do complete control (softest 8a you'll ever do as a short person) and dead calm instead. The thumb is also ace, and you'll make very short work of that if you found the bulge OK.

[Andy F]

Subculture 8a, Kilnsey. Apparently this is one of the easier 8as at Kilnsey but it didn’t feel like it! The whole thing just feels hard, painful, and generally not that fun. Maybe I just need to try a bit harder? Or maybe just try some routes which are more fun.

Sack it off. I regret not knocking this down to 1 star in Northern Rock. It's objectively rubbish. The punchy start to the rest is good but then you've got this arbitrary traverse to a chain in the arse end of nowhere.

You can easily climb to the Myra Hindley belay which extends the climbing but no extra difficulty and a better finish.

[Johnny Brown]

Top three sport routes
Not that I recall.

Just remembered, toproped Monopoly, think I flashed it. Good climbing.

[monkoffunk]

‘It’s obviously not world class, but would be nice to have a reasonable go at the local stuff when visiting the parents.

The arête is definitely world class, long live the gorge 👀

The arête in particular gave me a spanking despite previously having had the knack.

[Stu Littlefair]

So great to see everyone's achievements over the year - always a great motivator and I always find a few gems for the ticklist in this thread too.

Top 3 Boulder Problems

Brad's Wall, Stanton
Inspired to look at this again by the Wedge video of Jim climbing it. Gave a couple of really great days out on two of the only good days this winter. Morning swim in Barbrook Reservoir, big slice of cake in Calver and then sunny afternoons puzzling out the best way to shuffle around on the crimps. Magic.

Flint eatswood, The P
Notable for two reasons; it was the first day of the year when my finger felt like it could actually tolerate small holds, and I found a particularly pleasing sequence. Technically subtle, with a foot swap that made me think of Dawes' helicopter analogy and a great last move involving a jump from a thumb Gaston. Plus, soft.

Zarzamorza, Albarracin
Not for the problem itself, which is an overrated, over-polished boulder, but as a reminder to myself to know when to stop. This was almost the first boulder problem of 2023. Since Oct 2022 I'd been struggling with a very sore middle finger, limping along and trying to train. This was the problem when it became horribly apparent that I'd need to take rehab more seriously. Once back from Spain I didn't boulder again until June and I'm sure it would have been less bad if I'd just had the sense to not climb!

Top 2 Routes
Mike Tyson, Berdorf
After several months of picking up extremely small weights, I started to feel like mid-grade climbing was back on the cards and we had a short (see later) trip to The Frankenjura, via Berdorf. Would recommend Berdorf for a short stay; can be busy but has a Southern Sandstone on steroids vibe that I liked. Plus, you get to see the hilariously tiny "Tallest Waterfall in Luxembourg".

This was the pick of ticks from my two days there; a mad double dyno that I assumed was the crux, followed by the actual crux - which to my weakened body felt like a font 7b boulder problem. Given it's on a 7b+ it was probably about font 6a, but was a great sequence pulling through a roof on tiny crimps and big heels. Would have chosen the incredible 7c arete of Bobby Brown, but I couldn't do it!

Hard Torque, Lammergeier Buttress
One of the things I love most about climbing is that, if you can let go of your ego, you can have exactly the same amount of fun out of shape as you can when climbing well. This provided an absolute limit experience for me, slapping desperately off a tiny undercut when pumped out of my mind. I couldn't rest anywhere so blasted from the start without chalking and got to the top by the skin of my teeth. Fucking brilliant. Sadly, it was also the day I realised that I was going too fast with the finger rehab progress, which is why there are only two routes here...

Top Spankings
The Cod Finger
I mean, I know I've been injured a lot, but this year sucked. After stopping climbing in Jan, by mid-may I could still only pick up 10kg with my injured hand without pain. I think the slow progress was in part caused by climbing so much through pain, which created quite a strong mind-body connection. In April I had the weird experience of having a right-hand-only session at the wall, which made my left middle finger swollen the next day!

Thanks so much to James from the Whitehouse and Huffy who have slowly got me back together, and to Dave Mason who gave me something productive to do whilst injured. Feels like I'm heading in the right direction for 2024...

Summer Holidays
Like many others on here, 2024 was a tough year for various reasons. Our Berdorf/FJ trip was a particular low point. We just made it to the FJ in time to have dinner with Ru and family, before a phone call led to us turning around and driving straight home in order to put our cat down. She'd been with us over 16 years and we're the stereotypical pet-as-kid-replacement family, so it was a shit few weeks when we were expecting a good few weeks.

Bobby Brown, Berdorf
This is an amazing line that also climbs brilliantly. Like a bolted grit or Nesscliffe E7. Really cool and improbable starting sequence on pockets, with a technical and balancy arete section high up. Would be three stars anywhere and one to go back to, but I dropped it over and over, falling off every move you can conceivably fall off. Will stop off here on the drive to Germany next year, just for this.
Overall, there were some nice moments, and lots to look forward to in 2024. Bring it on!

[Will Hunt]

big team ascent of the Dubh ridge. The party had some grades in hand but it was not without interest. Hastily downclimbed the ab(!), then over Caisteal a' Garbh Choire and round to Gars Bheinn

I did this back in 2008 and loved it. Very memorable, especially since we started in completely the wrong place and were soloing around on hot greasy rock in walking boots trying to find the slabby bit.

There's a nice poem from an SMC guidebook:
Said Maylard to Solly, one day in Glen Brittle,
“All serious climbing, I vote, is a bore;
Just for once I Dubh Beag you’ll agree to do little,
And, as less we can’t do, let’s go straight to Dubh Mor.”

So now, when they seek but a day’s relaxation,
With no thought in the world but of viewing the views,
And regarding the mountains in mute adoration,
They call it not “climbing” but “doing the Dubhs.”

[spidermonkey09]

Very much enjoyed reading all of these, keep them coming; hopefully you've gone a bit early here though Stu!

Like many others on here, 2024 was a tough year for various reasons.

Top 3 Boulder Problems

Renaissance, Baildon- A day out with Matt and Barney the labrador as a grim winter finally started to lift, so nobody cared that it was far too hot in the sun. I'd wanted to do this since seeing the videos making the rounds. It was as good as it looks and deserves sustained attention, the top move being particularly good if you're on the short side. Its also obviously not 7B+ as appears to have been widely accepted; nearer 7A+.

Fish Arete Sit, Wimberry On a previous visit to Wimberry, admittedly on a slightly warm day, I complained on here about how I couldn't do the 7A stand to this and how overrated it was. Despite getting up it later in the day, I stand by those criticisms. I had a play on the sit and rated it but couldn't do it in the warmth. However, a few weeks later I saw a forecast for 65% humidity, cold and dry, and shifted work around. One of those magical grit days where falling off feels impossible, I smashed around the crag in the dog in tow, despatching everything I put my pads under and gradually moving up the hill. After one go on the sit I knew I should do it and duly did after a brief rest, the lower part feeling easy but only just holding the top jug with a satisfying grunt. I've never done a sit start that so utterly transforms a problem from average to brilliant. The whole day was one of the best I've had on grit; flashing Stateside with the chip and then without the chip 2 goes later was especially satisfying, as was Winsome and Dark Matter. One of those days where the 10 years I've spent learning how to climb on grit was worth it and I just turned up, executed and claimed the prizes!

Spare Rib, Stanton Moor

Another one that falls under a great day. My partner and dog were in Derbyshire for a Christmas get together but I negotiated dropping them off and going climbing in the daytime in the mint cons before meeting them later. I met Duncan and Flo in the woods and did Science Friction and Eyes to the Skies before we went to try Spare Rib. I'd had a session before but never felt close and it had felt high. Having arrived and put the pads under it I went first and found myself on the top sidepulls before lashing to the top and holding it. More proof that gritstone is 90% about conditions. On the way out I stopped under Brads Rib which had previously felt 8B; after a comprehensive descrittling I whaled over the top which if anything was even better.

Top 3 Sport Routes

All UK as I haven't climbed abroad this year.

Man With A Gun & Bullet, Kilnsey

Having these together as somehow I ticked them in the same tie in! I just about made it to the MWAG belay second go of the day and felt knackered. However, I'd been working Bullet too and knew what to do so reasoned I might as well have a go. I got a fair bit back in the bridged rest but couldn't shake the dull pumped feeling from my arms. I climbed the crux pretty much perfectly and landed on the jugs with a bit of a shout. Normally the top section would be a formality but the pump returned with a vengeance and I took about 10 minutes to climb the last few draws, resorting to skipping the last as the energy drained and only just hitting the jug at the top. Even then I had to shake out for a while before clipping the belay. Mega.

Maglite, Malham

I put the extra bolt in this last year having reasoned that it would be good to be able to climb the upper bit of Magnetic Fields, which is about 7b/+ and really good, without the desperate Magnetic start. I spotted a line of weakness and after some fiddling about over a few sessions had a sequence which didn't feel too bad, although it was very technical. However adding in the Overnite start made a big difference and I fell off the linking section for probably 4 sessions, in admittedly very poor conditions most of the time. Finally the conditions started to turn and I got through the traverse with a huge effort and fortunately didn't fall off the upper section. Its only a linkup, and only one bolt of new climbing at that, but I was really pleased to have made a contribution to the country's best crag, even if it is only a very small one. God knows how hard it is; I initially thought it was 7c+, now I and others think its 8a+! I also think its quite good!

Last Days, Gordale

After the shit summer weather and 4 weddings in quick succession torpedoed my season this was a great late summer tick. Mike was on Last Days so joined him on that. Had a good working go as a warm up, did all the moves and remembered the Dogpoint section. Did not feel fit. Mike smoothly RPd it and I just about made it through the halfway crux on Dogpoint despite feeling tired. Shook out for an eternity before tackling the roof. An upside down biner on the long draw in the roof meant a lot more hanging around than was ideal, before I completely forgot my sequence to get to the mega jugs which meant I was absolutely terminally boxed by the time I attained the jugs. I shook out for ages, on terrain which you would find on a Lakes VS, but it became apparent this was as good as it was going to get. The top section is two fairly straightforward grooves that wouldn't be out of place on an E2 but I was absolutely haggard at this point and made a total meal of it. I nearly came off every single move and had to resort to a variety of totally improvised shakeouts as I remembered what to do. Finally I arrived at the top hold which had felt decent on the dogging go. Unfortunately it was unholdable in my fucked state and with disgust I realised that after fighting for 20 minutes on easy climbing I was going to drop it with my hand on the top of the crag. Resisting the inevitable I attempted to shakeout and magically my left hand dropped into a bomber fingerlock in the crack which made a shakeout plausible. I gibbered onto the water worn smooth rib at the top of the crag and fought to stay on as I put a draw in the belay and shook out again before committing to pulling up the rope and clipping it. As I lowered off I was drenched in sweat and totally bolloxed. I haven't been that tired on a route since attempting to climb in Rodellar. This is one of the best 7cs in Yorkshire; a worthy companion to New Dawn and Dominatrix in a 7c Triple Crown.


Top 3 Trad Routes

Slim pickings this year due to weather, dog responsibilities and general lack of effort perhaps. However some good evenings in the quarries which I really enjoyed.

Isle of White, Wilton 1
Really rated this, a worthy companion to White Slabs Bunt but a fair bit bolder. I definitely concentrated harder than usual but enjoyed it all the way and its always good to do that hero finishing section again.

Loopy, Wilton
With a friend visiting from Tasmania, who had done it first and taken the gear out, which I guess made mine a flash. I climbed the first bit fine and thought it was in, but got insanely pumped on the crimps on the slab and only just made it, latching the final crimp in front of my face just as I started to topple backwards. Great fight.

Nose Climb, Eastby
It was too hot to try Ill Gotten Gains properly so I spent the afternoon soloing around. This was probably the pick of the bunch; airy, great moves, varied and perfect rock. What a route.

Life

The big change was my partner and I getting a dog. After some extremely tiring initial weeks he settled in really well and now I can't imagine the house without him. He's sat next to me on the sofa as I type this! Despite being knackered all the time and some fairly big compromises having to be made with my climbing, having a dog has really enriched my life and I'm very glad we finally took the plunge.
The years PhD work has oscillated between steady and incredibly stressful but I'm still keeping on and am overall not totally hating it yet. It was a great experience visiting Delhi for archival work even if I did get the inevitable food poisoning.

Spankings

Unjustified

Really this is part of the wider weather spanking which everyone has been forced to endure. I would have done this in the spring and was probably one good conditions day away when it got ridiculously hot and I had to sack it off. The winds were never right after that and by the time they turned it was wet and never dried. Its a bastard to get in condition but I still don't think its that hard...hopefully next year will see me seal the deal.

The Bulge I really don't rate this route (sorry Remus!). I find the section out of the initial corner awkward, the 'rest' shit and the top section good but not not good enough to compensate for the averageness I've endured. I've had numerous sessions and never got close. I had a few more this year and still didn't. I feel like I'll have to tick it at some point as its a classic but I don't get the hype personally.

Attic Wall, My House
I noticed this was getting a bit damp in the spring and arranged for a roofer to have a look. He diagnosed that next doors chimney was in appalling order and needed repointing. He did the work and re ridged my roof while he was at it. Once he was done I scraped the entire wall and redecorated it. I thought I'd sorted it but as the winter has worsened the wall is getting damp again, in different places, staining my hard applied paintwork and possibly even worse than the first time round! No idea whats going on but will try again this year...

[remus]

The Bulge I really don't rate this route (sorry Remus!). I find the section out of the initial corner awkward, the 'rest' shit and the top section good but not not good enough to compensate for the averageness I've endured. I've had numerous sessions and never got close. I had a few more this year and still didn't. I feel like I'll have to tick it at some point as its a classic but I don't get the hype personally.

I'll take solace in burning you off 

[Ed booth]

Great thread. Already psyched for 2024

Top three boulder problems, UK
-Roof of Baby Buddha, Got close to this about 4 years ago and did a pulley. I went back this spring for a look on a damp day and came away feeling despondent and worried I had lost all my previous boulder strength from a few years back. I returned on a whim this autumn and felt strong and with half an hour I had done it. It is a really great bloc.
-SubMoron-Shropshire Lass, and In His Head connections. Similarly, start of the year felt miles off repeating SubMoron, but this winter have felt a bit stronger and got out of the roof, and managed to hold it together for the longer link. Went back while the iron was hot and week after did the In His Head link. Nice to get s 8A's before Xmas.
-Spikeful. Always wanted to do stuff on these walls. Was on the comeback in the summer from a tweaky finger and had a beaut day over in the pass and went to Cwm Glas area. Tried this Ground Up to start with but was struggling to commit. Feels quite necky with no spotters as if you land badly you could fall off the next tier, and its quite tall. Dropped a rope down to find the holds, and then did it. Sharp holds but a cool little route.

Top four trad routes/solos UK
Didn't do much trad again this year (only 3 routes  ) which I want to rectify in 2024 but did a few bits.
- Booby Prize. With more trad flow and some sport fitness would have fancied a flash burn on this but with neither and a virus I felt lucky to come away with anything. Top roped it day 1 and then next day felt perkier, so before we drove home led it placing the kit on lead.
- Colossus. A mate had always wanted to do this so went to do it with him. Was pretty wet and suprised it get as classic a status as it does. Quite adventurous for essentially a badly bolted dangerous sport route.
- Gates of Mordor. Was trying Top Loader and at end of day whipped round just because I've missed onsighting. Qute fun to try to race up this and remember what is fun about on sight climbing.
- We 'Ad a Look. Wanted to repeat Heel Hook Look DWS. Turns out we did this, but still really good.

Top three sport routes UK
- The Shining, Diamond. Tactical dog, then blew it first RP. Good rest then did it 2nd in the evening sunset glow. Perfect.
- Terrible Thing, Breakwater. Climbs really well.
- Arch Enemies. Classy route. Tried to do Sworn few weeks later and got super close but ripped a big flapper.


Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Good to get back into swing of euro lime 8a scenes. Did 8 8's abroad I think

Top spankings/Thefts
Felt like I had a great year for actually climbing lots again but felt like recurring theme was nearly doing stuff but not quite getting over the line for one reason or another. Don't really see these as failures and super psyched for them all next year..
- Sworn Enemies
- The Medium, Nearly did in a session, top roped clean and then on lead fell with fingers tickling edge. Didn't get back.
-The Thumb, went for tactical dog and felt good on it, but decided to bin it at the lip 3 times. Next morning felt broken so bailed and didn't go back.
-Insomnia. Failed to do first move (Broken Dreams crux) . In frustration pulled on after this move and went for a link and did to the top, so should really do this next year.
- Bat route, failed to even go to Malham. Never helps . . .
- Dream Topping, Tried early season and was a bit wigged out to go full beans on lead. Lead it on pre placed kit in 3 sections. and top roped in 2, doable but its 8a and bit of a bastard if you go all ethical and have to strip kit after each failed attempt. (Ideally just do it first go, but that probably requires more time practising)
- Eye of the Tiger. Quick sesh between night shifts. Warm up top rope dog got m boxed, then only had time for one more go. Bottled it and went for top rope and did in one, should have done on the pre placed kit that was in.
- Trumpet Blowers. Shunt session. Really like it and want to get it done next year.
- Craic yr Maestri, same but it would take more time.
- Surreal Appeal and Painted Groove Direct. TR the latter, and came back to lead and it was wet. so TR SA instead but was super greasy so bottled the lead.
-Jeune Cassini link, only 1 session to reaqquaint but need to finish this in new year.
- Madness Reigns at Dyserth. Nails. 8a+ i reckon
- Badger Badger, keen to get this finsihed in early new year.

Top non-climbing
Life slowly getting easier with kids.

God job everyone, been some good readng. And happy NY 2024!

[Ed booth]

Also forgot the top spanking on L'ami Caouette at Ceuse. Had a cool last minute trip to join some friends. Ceuse hasn't been on radar for years and was so cool to be back. Put all my pennies in for L'ami Caouette, and it basically felt to me V9 into a tricky/pumpy Fr7c+ with no rest. 8a+ all day for me. Only made it through the boulder prob on session 4 and then pumped out half way up the route. Fingers were feeling tweaky from the bloc, so bailed. Complete anti style so probably good for me to spend some time on it. Had a dog up a wet Souers Froides on last day which gets 8a+ and felt way easier and more my style . Should have gone on  that from the start.

[jwi]

L'Ami Caouette is 8a+ in my opinion. For my size fingers the start boulder is at least 7B (I don't have many 7B to compare with since I don't really boulder outdoors but at least as hard as some benchmarks I'd done around the same time). The rest after is good, but it is for sure 7c+ to the top after the boulder. I fell several times on the top bit, and I can usually keep it together well. Compared to other routes on Demi-Lune it is about as hard as Le poinçonneur des lilas and Femme Blanche.

To quote one of the more notorious downgraders in France:

A moins d'une méthode miracle au départ je suis plutôt d'accord avec le 8a plus, quelle daubante ensuite!

(Unless there's some miracle beta at the start, I tend to agree with the 8a plus, really pumpy afterwards!)

[Ed booth]

Also, not sure whether it was sensible or not, but i wasn't using that rest to the right after the bloc.
Compared to some other 7B's i can think of it's harder! I wouldn't argue with 7B+/C for the bloc.

[jwi]

Also, not sure whether it was sensible or not, but i wasn't using that rest to the right after the bloc.
Compared to some other 7B's i can think of it's harder! I wouldn't argue with 7B+/C for the bloc.

If the start boulder is 7B+ it would be a quite hard 8a+ in my opinon. It is possible. I did Ami a few years ago and the start was already very slippery, and Demi lune is getting polished to glass. Likewise I found the start of Femme Blanche/Noire/Chirurgien de Crépuscule much harder than ten years ago. The first time I did that start, I flashed it, 7 years later I had to project it, and a few years later I could not do it. I might just getting old though... But I've heard that even the start of Biographie is polished and much harder nowadays.

I very much doubt that taking the rest out right or not change the difficulty of L'ami. Maybe a quarter grade at most. For strong people it makes sense to just charge and get on with it, for fit people it makes sense to rest 🤷🏼‍♂️

[stone]

The Cod Finger
I mean, I know I've been injured a lot, but this year sucked. After stopping climbing in Jan, by mid-may I could still only pick up 10kg with my injured hand without pain. I think the slow progress was in part caused by climbing so much through pain, which created quite a strong mind-body connection. In April I had the weird experience of having a right-hand-only session at the wall, which made my left middle finger swollen the next day!

Best wishes for the continued rehab! That phenomenon of your finger swelling in response to the other hand being worked is fascinating. I wonder though whether it might be due to some sort of non-neural systemic inflammation rather than mind body connection.

I suppose what is needed is a parabiosis test https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parabiosis. Does anyone know of conjoined twins who climb? If so, one twin could climb carrying their twin with an injured finger. Then see if that finger swells.

[Stu Littlefair]

Interesting. Could be.

I think you’ll struggle with the ethics approval for that experiment though!

[Wil]

I did naff all climbing this year due to other commitments and then injury.

Top trad

Cycled into Beinn a' Bhùird midweek in May. Saw about 6 people all day, did the munros and soloed the Cumming-Crofton Route and Squareface. I underestimated the uphill on the way in, and went a bit too hard, resulting in horrible quad cramps when I ditched the bike and started running. It eased off with some persuasion.


Had a lovely day at Weeping Walls on Aonach Dubh in the Spring. Soloed Weeping Wall Route and led Spider Right Hand, both great little adventures.


Other

Walked the Tour des Ecrins in September over 8 days. It's a brilliant route, every valley has its own character. September was nice and quiet, although still quite hot most days. A few sections of the trail are in poor repair, and some of the schist scree slopes would be pretty dodgy in rain or snow. Doing it in 8 days meant stringing sections together (normally done over 11/12), which made for a couple of very long days. Highly recommend the route, it would be easy to just walk sections of it and catch a bus back. Will do a proper write up at some point.



I ran the Tarmachan Ridge on my birthday, which was a lovely morning with wind and mist and a hint of rain, which is my favourite kind of weather for running.

Life

Finally got some counselling with a decent therapist. It seems to have had a very good effect. I started the year unable to open emails with feedback from fairly inconsequential exercises I was doing for a course (even though I knew I was doing fine). I'm certainly not out of the woods with anxiety (see below), but overall I've been a lot happier and far less prone to confidence spirals.

I was invited to do the Alpine Club lecture in Edinburgh in December, which was a real honour. It seemed to be well received (although I've woken up in a cold sweat worried that I rambled, or was incoherent ... ) This was the one thing in the latter part of the year that caused me real anxiety, to the point that I was genuinely concerned I might just have a panic attack during it, but as soon as I started I was fine. I reminded myself of the number of times in teaching when I had a really naughty class and still managed to deliver a decent lesson. There are lots of things I would change in the talk, but maybe I'll get a chance to deliver it again somewhere. It might go out as an episode of Factor Two at some point.

Software Dev course. I really enjoyed this, and it got me past the hurdle of knowing what I needed to learn in the future. I've been able to build some interesting tools, including an App I've been working on to help my maths students.

Spankings

I never got my head together with climbing this year, and then took time out to try to heal up an injured shoulder. Even before that I was nervous on everything, and finding it hard to commit to moves above bolts. I'm not quite sure what was going on, but hopefully I'll put it right this year.

Went for a look at Dalriada in May. Was a long way off fit enough for it, and I was nervous even on toprope. Will revisit in 2024 hopefully!