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Best of 2023 (Read 29704 times)

RobK

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#75 Re: Best of 2023
January 02, 2024, 07:29:50 pm
Great write up Bradders. The Irish stuff looks cool, I might be down that way in October for family related stuff, so in the event that any free time lines up with the weather I might give you a shout for some more deets.

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#76 Re: Best of 2023
January 02, 2024, 07:42:27 pm
It feels a bit weird to talk about how my partner's medical issues affect me, in that it's obviously not my body and pain, but it has had a massive impact on my life in terms of changes to both long-term plans and day-to-day life, and at times I've essentially been a carer. It’s brutal watching someone that you love experience pain and lack of hope and inability to do the things that they enjoy, and hard to go off and do some of the things that they can’t do in order to meet your own needs. On that note, she’s also been superhumanly compassionate and understanding on days when she’s been bed-bound and I’ve come home from a day out climbing and complained to her about poor conditions or a split tip.


Coming at this from the other side, it’s absolutely okay and not weird to talk about the impact of your partner’s illness on your life. It’s a huge thing that turns your life upside down… they stuck the “in sickness and in health” bit in there for a reason, the temptation for many partners of sick people is to run away and you didn’t, that is awesome.

I’m very aware that my period of sickness has affected my partner in many ways, I don’t feel guilty about this but I do know it’s there and do everything I can to make space for her to express her feelings about the situation. I’m sure that your struggles will still be important to her even if they seem trivial in comparison; that’s what loving someone means.

Chronic illness is an absolute fucker and very good at wrecking friendships. It seems this is almost unavoidable and can be really upsetting. No answers from me on that one! I just guess some people get it and stick around, and some don’t, just when you need them. It’s brutal.

I’m obviously coming at things from the sick person’s point of view, but if ever that might be useful then just DM me on here.

Thanks Sean - your kindness in writing that means a lot to me (and, to echo everyone else, your stretching efforts and general sticking with it are hugely impressive).

andy popp

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#77 Re: Best of 2023
January 03, 2024, 04:42:27 am
Droyd; you say that at times you’ve essentially been a carer. No qualification necessary. You have been and are a carer. I’ve been a carer twice in my life, for five years to my first wife and now for the last four to my current wife (though her condition - and thus my caring role- is easing). It is incredibly demanding. Physically it is often exhausting. Emotionally even more so, for lots of reasons: seeing a loved one suffer, worry and doubt about the future, mourning how things were meant to be, misplaced guilt of several kinds, e.g. why them, not me, or guilt about feeling sorry for yourself when it’s so much harder for your partner, or for still having your own needs and drives, or simply for enjoying something from time to time. There’s a tendency to feel the need to just put up and shut up and get on with it, not helped by a lot of people being really uncomfortable with even thinking about others’ long term illnesses (not saying this is your friends and family). There’s not much space for saying how tough it is. But it is tough and it’s good to acknowledge that.

So don’t be too hard on yourself. Take the breaks when you can. Lean on others when necessary. Be honest with others if you feel like it (I was probably really bad at this one). And as Sean said, you’re still there and still standing. You can be proud of that.

In the meantime, I really hope you get some clarity and answers soon and that she (and thus you) begins to experience some real improvement.

scragrock

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andy popp

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#79 Re: Best of 2023
January 03, 2024, 09:24:25 am
Umm, how did you forget those!

scragrock

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#80 Re: Best of 2023
January 03, 2024, 09:36:20 am
Umm, how did you forget those!

I didnt really....just not sure folk are that interested in obscure lines in the arse end of Scagland :unsure:

36chambers

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#81 Re: Best of 2023
January 03, 2024, 12:00:18 pm
Great thread as always, particularly the real talk.

Not a big year in terms of quality or quantity. I pulled my hamstring in early July, so much so that it hurt to walk, let alone press through my toes whilst climbing. So I did very little for about 4 months and it's only the last few weeks were I feel like I can do a half decent heel hook without my leg feeling like it's going to explode. At least I was enjoying weighted pull ups at the time.

Top 3 UK
Son of Kong 7B, Harter Fell - Been frothing to go to Harter for years and it didn't disappoint. Great day out with a good team and it's always nice to commit to the unknown on a highish line.

Chasing Rainbows 7B(?), Round Crag - Slightly marred that it felt considerably easier than the given grade of 7C. But it was a glorious blue sky day exploring a new crag with good company (who brought bakery goods!). What more can you want. (Honourable mention for Fight or Flight 6B+, which was equally as good)

Vitruvian Man 7B+, Trowbarrow - Like I said, not a big year for quality ;)... tried it once in the past and thought the first move was too spanny but this year it felt easy. I've now done the crux 4 different ways sorting out the beets to Iron Man, just need to go back at some point for some red points.

Top 5 abroad
Fourmis Rouge 7C, Fontainebleau - Great experience figuring this out ground up and getting slightly higher each go, until I eventually dragged myself over the top. I usually dislike having to work out harder stuff ground up on trips, as I've been stung plenty of times by missing something crucial, but it does make success way more satisfying when it arrives and the celebratory patisseries always slap more because of it. 

Right Hand of Darkness 8A, Magic Wood - Having watched plenty of videos of Daniel Woods climbing ridiculous looking horizontal roofs, including this one, in my early days of climbing, I was very excited to actually get to climb in the darkness cave, albeit at a much lower grade. I'm not even sure it's that good a problem, but checking out stuff you're seen for years is always a big fat tick regardless.
 
Minisex 7C, MW - It was great fun to unlock this one at the end of the day with the only beta being a vague memory of someone kicking the wall at some point. Running on fumes, my friend dragged himself up this and even built up the courage to eventually scramble up the easy finishing slab. However, upon watching back his shambolic footage we realised he maintained a continuous 4 second dab with his flagging foot at the start... thankfully he somehow dragged himself up it a second time.
 
Hohenrausch 7B+, MW - World class. If only I could climb stuff of this quality everyday.

Ninja Gaeshi 7A, Mitake - went to Japan for my honeymoon and had a spare day whilst in Tokyo so it felt rude not to catch the underground/train there. Was happy to get up the Picnic Sarcastic of Mitake, especially as I was wearing knackered, over sized, Red Chilli rentals.

Top 3 potential FA
Side Quest 7B+, secret location - I've now realised that this is literally one of two things that I got up this year which took more than one session. But that's not for lack of trying. Sweet knacky sequence with the low start still to do.

The 87 Bus to Casu 7A+, Wharncliffe - An obvious silly link up, but good enough for Ben Bransby to do and also good enough for Dave Parry to photograph and include in his brilliant weekly Pennine Lines email. (December 4th if anyone cares.)

The Press 7B+, Caley - Best of its style, name, and grade... (or maybe not). A mirrored version of its namesake at Rubicon. My right should hurt for 3 days afterwards. Not sure it's even worth a star (although it would get 2 using the Ruin Bank scale), so don't bother unless you happen to be there.

Top 4 wads spotted out and about
- Shawn Raboutou and Giuliano Cameroni
   - Shawn and G Dogg were staying at the Magic Wood guest house at the same time we were, so we hung out with them a little. Shawn even gave me a Magnum ice cream once, so we're practically BFFs. However, the real highlight was pre-restday drinks in which my friend (who we shall call Bo) had a few too many and started fanboying Shawn considerably more than usual, asking for secret tips for getting stronger etc (apparently some of the Korean comp climbers have had surgery to stop their fingertips from sweating...). Anyway, eventually Shawn tried to sneak out for a cheeky doobie but without missing a beat Bo tailgated him right out the side entrance. I think it might have been a long while since Bo last smoked (assuming he has done) as apparently he vomited quite dramatically in the wee hours of the night... He sent his ghost downstairs to join us for late breakfast the following day ;D

- Kokoro Fujii
   - Pulling up to Isatis car park I spotted some Japanese chaps walking off into the woods, 30 minutes later I arrived by Karma and watched one of them casually pop up Karma, seemingly on their first pull on of the day. Not one to forget a fringe, I quickly realised it was Kokoro Fujii, but nevertheless, he made it look so trivial that I thought I actually might have a chance of getting up it too. 3 hours, and many attempts, later it became very apparent that I did not. Sandbag me once, shame on you. Towards the end of the day, I had just accepted defeat on Rencard and was about to move on, until Fujii and co. joined in and he quickly does it using higher feet. Rejoice, a new non reachy sequence for me to try. I excitedly got my shoes back out of my bag, squeaked them nice and clean, pulled on and realised it took all my might just to hold his starting positive, let alone consider moving from it. Sandbag me twice, shame on me.

I've just remembered, there was also a pet goat on the loose at the crag that day. Every time I looked around, it would appear menacingly on top of a high boulder and was usually staring me down. 

- Miho Nonaka
   - Went to B-PUMP Ogikubo to sample some soft Japanese indoor climbing (they have a small perspex smoking box/room right beside the climbing area, so you could nip in mid session!). Travelling to the centre we actually joked about how cool it would be if someone like Miho was casually knocking about (I genuinely had no idea she even climbed at this particularly place) and lo and behold an hour into our session a bright red haired Miho arrives and starts warming up on everything I couldn't do.

Honourable mentions: got my Dave Graham threepeat and I think my 4th sighting of a wild Dave Birkett. Good times.

bolehillbilly

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#82 Re: Best of 2023
January 03, 2024, 02:27:04 pm

Top 4 wads spotted out and about
- Shawn Raboutou and Giuliano Cameroni
   - Shawn and G Dogg were staying at the Magic Wood guest house at the same time we were, so we hung out with them a little. Shawn even gave me a Magnum ice cream once, so we're practically BFFs. However, the real highlight was pre-restday drinks in which my friend (who we shall call Bo) had a few too many and started fanboying Shawn considerably more than usual, asking for secret tips for getting stronger etc (apparently some of the Korean comp climbers have had surgery to stop their fingertips from sweating...). Anyway, eventually Shawn tried to sneak out for a cheeky doobie but without missing a beat Bo tailgated him right out the side entrance. I think it might have been a long while since Bo last smoked (assuming he has done) as apparently he vomited quite dramatically in the wee hours of the night... He sent his ghost downstairs to join us for late breakfast the following day ;D

- Kokoro Fujii
   - Pulling up to Isatis car park I spotted some Japanese chaps walking off into the woods, 30 minutes later I arrived by Karma and watched one of them casually pop up Karma, seemingly on their first pull on of the day. Not one to forget a fringe, I quickly realised it was Kokoro Fujii, but nevertheless, he made it look so trivial that I thought I actually might have a chance of getting up it too. 3 hours, and many attempts, later it became very apparent that I did not. Sandbag me once, shame on you. Towards the end of the day, I had just accepted defeat on Rencard and was about to move on, until Fujii and co. joined in and he quickly does it using higher feet. Rejoice, a new non reachy sequence for me to try. I excitedly got my shoes back out of my bag, squeaked them nice and clean, pulled on and realised it took all my might just to hold his starting positive, let alone consider moving from it. Sandbag me twice, shame on me.

I've just remembered, there was also a pet goat on the loose at the crag that day. Every time I looked around, it would appear menacingly on top of a high boulder and was usually staring me down. 

- Miho Nonaka
   - Went to B-PUMP Ogikubo to sample some soft Japanese indoor climbing (they have a small perspex smoking box/room right beside the climbing area, so you could nip in mid session!). Travelling to the centre we actually joked about how cool it would be if someone like Miho was casually knocking about (I genuinely had no idea she even climbed at this particularly place) and lo and behold an hour into our session a bright red haired Miho arrives and starts warming up on everything I couldn't do.

Honourable mentions: got my Dave Graham threepeat and I think my 4th sighting of a wild Dave Birkett. Good times.

Great wad stories 36C, especially the goat.

haydn jones

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#83 Re: Best of 2023
January 03, 2024, 03:21:52 pm
Top sport UK
Stone of destiny 6c+ - Creag nan Clag
It's been years since I've climbed on conglomerate other than tufa climbing I think this might be my favorite type of rock to climb on, endless potatoes sticking out of the wall! The whole crag is great, not just this route.

True North 8c  Kilnsey
Needs no introduction this one, probably the best 8c in the UK? Finally got round to trying it this year and it did not disappoint, my whole experience with this one was great, I just remember endless days of perfect conditions this spring, it felt like climbing in Spain where you don't even bother looking at the weather, you just assume its mid tens and low humidity!

Indian Summer 8b+ - Kilnsey
First route in the UK after bouldering non stop all winter, unsurprisingly it felt quite hard and pumpy! Its absolutely mind boggling to me that Steve onsighted this back in the day (I know its slightly harder now due to hold break, but the top boulder is still the same and its such a blatancy pop to the finishing slot!)

Freakshow 8b+/c - Kilnsey
Wow, I don't think I'll ever get enough of being up in this roof at Kilnsey. The route breaks down like so, 7a+ into 7C into a 8a route, all I had to do was get through the boulder and I knew I would 100% get to the chains, the problem was pressure was on as the following day the conditions were changing dramatically for the worse (little did I know this would be the last day of the year pretty much for good conditions and by this time in the year I was in full enduro mode and all boulder strength had left me. Some how I managed to power scream my way through the shoulder wrenching iron cross gaston move on the boulder and then a glorious romp up to the chains.

The Vanilla Path 8a+ - Kilnsey
I just had to mention this one, it has one of the craziest shoulder busting moves I've ever done on a route. North Buttress keeps on giving! The crux revolves around reaching up off a sidepull into a flat under cut way above your head, so far that you have to take it as a gaston, then some how walk your feet up the wall in this position! Nice one Ted for cleaning it up.

Top sport abroad
Jungle speed 8b+ - saint leger
Last day of the trip, 3rd day on and what a fight! probably the longest steepest route I've ever done, hard all the way to the top with a heart breaker finish which luckily I never dropped, not sure if I could have mentally got back on the route if i drooped the moves to the chain!

Coloscopie 8a (flash) - saint leger
After doing Jungle speed I decided one last route for the trip and picked this one, already knackered I some how screamed my way up this one. I was having to put the draws in myself and at one point I could see it was going to be to much energy to both equip and clip the bolt so skipped 2 draws in a row, would have been quite a spicy fall!
at the top of the route is a hole, 10 meters below the chains. I had to crawl in and just lay there, I can still remember how loud my heart was beating and how refreshing the cold rock on my boiling hot body was.

Black Weekend 8b - Buoux
Thought I had messed up my chance of doing this route after blowing the last move on the go before, this go up I could feel energy systems failing, I got to the pop move to the final resting jugs before the top, this time however there was no popping, I could feel my arms were too tired to control this movement, I was going to have to all out double hand dyno to the hold, both hands come off, I'm flying through the air, one hand hits, another hand hits, my body flies horizontal, my shoulders are screaming and I'm screaming! Somehow I'm still on! I try to gather my composure for the final 7A boulder, when I realise I've torn 2 of the biggest flappers I've ever seen in my life, there's blood profusely pouring everywhere, I have to pack chalk into them to stem the flow of blood but it barley helps, I was here 2 hours ago, no flappers and feeling way lest fatigued and still fell off, but its my final chance of the trip, time to unleash the fucking big guns, full crimp like a demon you bastard! I let out a Ondra inspired psyche up scream and set off, I'll never know how I managed to do it!

legitime demence 8a+ (flash) - Saint Leger
Great to flash an 8a+ at Leger, proper grades out there! Felt like I climbed it as if I was on redpoint, no hesitation. I would hit a hold and my feet would already be moving to the correct foot holds on auto pilot.

Top Boulders UK
Dead Barron roof 8A (HARD!) - Shipley Glen
Probably the hardest boulder I've done in quite awhile even though it only gets 8A, felt like 8A+ to me but maybe it just didn't suit me, either way its totally 3* and at the time I had a poorly right hand finger and this is pure Sloppers for the right hand.

Chiasmata 8A - Almscliff
I can remember watching this years ago on Life on Hold and thinking I'll never be good enough to climbing some thing like this, also cherry on top, I burnt Jack Palmieri off  :tease:, probably the one and only time that will happen!

Like A Hurricane (top out) 8A - Chevin
The drop off finish is 3*, the top out version adds quality along and difficulty, Would recommend to anyone!

Top Boulders abroad
Sur-Prises 7C - Isatis
What an amazing pogo move, perfect movement, when you do it just right, it feels easy, so Font!

Metromotrice Assis 7C - Hautes-Plaines
Scarry! Such an ace line, will defiantly be back for the 8A to the left.

Unknown 7B+ - Albarracin below Mezquita
None of the locals knew the name of this boulder, but it is 4*, the locals took me down into the gorge below Mezquita, I think I particularly remember this one as it was the first high boulder I managed after hurting my ankle, I was so scared on the last move I let out a shrill scream slapping for the lip, much to the amusement of the locals.

Top FAs
Adventure Time 8c - Kilnsey
A variation on Epic Adventures, Epic has an 8a/+ intro to get to the roof, adventure time start up show time which I think is quite a tough 8b, then both have the same finish (around a 10 move 7B boulder with a clip in the middle of it)
Its worth mentioning there's an easier version, Sofite's adventure, which starts up True south and is around 7c+ to the roof boulder, and very perma dry, whilst most things were wet at Kilnsey this was still dry. around 8b/+ like this.

Sharper than Fiction 8b - Cornice
Gifted by Keith, this is genuinely 3 stars (for the UK), I had such a battle on this one having messed up my sequence at the start and getting really pumped, I should have just said take but I fought on and some how just about scrapped my way to the top.

Mescaline Power Trip 8b - Cornice
The true start to the route, not starting hanging on the first bolt! 3 move font 7C into a short PE 8a, with some tricky clips. could be 8b+ but its easier than other things like 42 and 32.

Mandela's Furious Fingers 8A+ - Kilnsey
I almost gave this 8A but really its actually quite hard, a long traverse (8a/+ish) into a 3 move 7B+. I was very pleased when Jack went to try it and found it really hard! keen to do it into the Edge problem next, the harder links into the 8B's will have to wait for an actual WAD as they will be the equivalent of 9b sport

Top spankings
Weather - Cuillin Ridge & The Pirate
I almost put the Pirate and the ridge as two separate points, but then realised that both were just getting my arse kick by the weather. another failed attempt at the Cuillin with my dad, this year fingers crossed. The Pirate I wasted at least 8 sessions going up there and trying it with seepage coming out of all the holds, hoping it would dry out but the weather just never got better for months, I could have spent my time trying so many other things, but I guess I wasn't to know the weather would be permanently bad.

Ankle
Totally spanner my ankle dropping off Ibbo's board, didn't even fall off just dangled and dropped, hit a ever so slight soft spot on the matts and went over on it, I suspect it will take a few more months before I can heel toe cam.

Rainshadow
3 sessions on this, absolutely shut down on the boulder, think I managed it in 4 parts, there's no way its only font 8A, IIRC Steve originally graded it 7C+ boulder!

Losing #1 on the 8a leader board
This last ones funny, I didn't even realise that UKC had leader boards on ticklists but it was pointed out to me and asked if I knew who was number one as it was "Hidden". It was me it turned out!  :lol: so I mentioned it to Steve and we talked about who could actually be number one as obviously not everyone logs their climbs on UKC, anyway, the bastard logs all his climbs as he's curious and beats me by 1%!!!

Thanks everyone for posting all your yearly round ups, its great going through them all, the highs and the lows, I've definitely feel very lucky this year and feel the highs have vastly outweighed any lows.

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#84 Re: Best of 2023
January 03, 2024, 03:39:03 pm
Fell relays
First time at the fell relay champs. Did leg 1 (4.6k/460m), and performed much better than anticipated given the quality of the field, and my less than ideal year. Absolutely emptied myself, raced really hard for the duration, and felt it with the thigh DOMs for a few days after, but was over the moon to manage to do as well as I did. It's in Yorkshire next year so I'l be aiming to do it again, improve on that placing, and enjoy it - it's a fab event.

Nice write up generally, lovely and honest and good to hear from fellow punters (offence not intended). Hope things pick up.

I just wanted to piggyback on the relays and add that to my list. I too have had a mixed year of running and definitely slowing down (sub-20 5k thoroughly out of reach). Call it post-covid, age, focusing on other stuff, plain lazyness, but I've come to realise I love a good race regardless of slim training. There's people to battle against at whatever point in the field and times don't matter too much offroad. I absolutely love the Relays (this was my prompt to finally join a club years ago, when they were local to me). I've managed to snag a place most years and very happy to do so again. I suspect because the pool of people willing to point a compass in the club is smaller still than those up for the race. We were pretty well matched pair and only 1 slightly duff line late on, that lots of others took. Hope to see you in Yorks next year!

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#85 Re: Best of 2023
January 03, 2024, 04:33:50 pm
Crikey! Here we go best thread of the year - the longer and more indulgent the better in my mind!!

Love reading all the psyche - and it’s always nice to look back on the previous year.

So here we go…

Top 5 trad routes

Been a good year of nugget bothering for me… not one of massive quantity like when I was in my 20s but with a few E6s and a few E5s probably my best performances, though have fallen off on easier things more - go figure!

Moonwind Direct, E5 6b, Craig y Forwyn First hard route of the year and probably one of the hardest I did. It felt fairly comparable to the other E6s I’ve done (except BiA) Anyway had the full experience on this; got whigged out, pumped and fell probably on the crux, ripping a cam placed in a state of absolute panic. Flo convinced me to have another go, on which I got through the crux but the fiddly nature of the gear whigged me out again and I basically paniced myself off the move to the finishing jugs. Stripped it that day but went back and fired it off first go but still had to try hard.

Really great route - with some fairly tricky and pumpy climbing and quite a bit of fiddly gear. It’s not just smashing bomber wires in and cracking on!

Kicker Conspiracy, E5 6a, Scimitar Ridge

Just a great day out; chatting in the garden with some friends in the am, a leisurely lunch and more chatting under the crag to wait for the shade, after a warm up I “went for a look” and tiptoed my way through the bold start, the punchy top kept me on my toes until I had my hand on top of the thank god jug at the top of the route - mega!

Major Domo, E6 6b, NW Scotland

Been on the list for a while as a friend did it as an early E6 for her… was during the best bit of a mixed weather trip to Scotland.
I didn’t read the book properly and we got lost on the walk in, then as Flo was racking up to do the E1 as a warm-up another party arrived keen for MD after their own warm up. Worried about clashing plans we turned ours upside down and I was chuffed to luck my way through the crux and ride the flash pump to the top! Has claimed a few scalps of people slipping off the top of this if they get through the crux so chuffed with that one!

Big in America E6 6b, Pembroke

Gets E6 in the book but feels very reasonable for it, but it’s so bloody good it doesn’t matter what the grade is!

Classic stuff where I made the decision to go down despite the high winds and massive seas (tide was low fortunately) Flo got a bit gripped and then the extra wire I put in the belay ripped as she sat on it as I set off. All of a sudden it wasn’t so fun but I channelled that into climbing well, reasoning that the safest way to get us out was by climbing the route. The groove bit is brilliant with a very on-off move, nearly came acropper misreading the top but what a glory quest that bit is!

Suicide Blonde, E6 6b, Daddyhole

Been on my mind again for a little while but barely ever climb in Devon these days. Pembroke gopped out and it looked primo down in Torbay with the added bonus of seeing the parents.
Went down one afternoon, had a lovely swim and quick sunbathe then got on with it. This and Moonwind were my two biggest battles, with this one being a bit more physical. Pumped off by the top peg on my first go, lowered off for a rest and just about managed it next go, didn’t place any more gear until I slung the tree at the top… not too sure if there has been some rockfall at the top of this as it was a little loose and had quite a bit of soil on ledges… it also doesn’t resemble how it looks of the pic of Tom Newberry on it in the guide  :-\

A bit escapeable to the arête (seems weird not to as it leads your to have your hands on the ledge but a great bit of climbing especially after you commit up the stripey wall.

Top 4 foreign routes

Had a long trip to Spain with Flo which was great though I certainly didn’t climb anywhere near my best due to skin issues, attitude/mh issues, and fitness issues. They kind of bled into each other at times  but hey you live and learn.

El Bufa 7c+, chulilla

Wasn’t my most successful Spanish trip with skin issues, attitude issues and just not feeling that fit. Flo did this second go, whilst it took me 4 sessions! A lesson in preparing better as I just thought if I get stronger I’ll climb better. Still what a route, felt 8a compared to the other 8a I did on the trip and didn’t feel that much easier than the other 8a I got close to up in Siurana.
Whipping off the moves to the chains were a lot of fun, though the bottom of the route is a bit of a faff!

Solas y Solas, 7c, Siurana

FINALLY! Been thinking about trying to onsight 7c since my first big Spain trip where I got close but no cigar and have dallied every other trip with varying degrees of commitment. In fairness, no trip since the first has been particularly successful for one reason or another which won’t have helped! I tried quite a few on this trip and got close every time, but a miss is as good as a mile and I had to settle for 2nd go (or occasional failures).

This was one of the ones I really wanted to do and towards the end of the trip I went for it and fortunately climbed well, didn’t make any mistakes and made it to the anchor. It’s definitely a softy and could very likely be 7b+ but you gotta take them sometimes havent you? I didn’t take Los franceses in chulilla as it did feel too easy, but I tried to use it as a confidence booster.

I loved the runout/traddy nature of this one… made sure you kept on trucking and tried hard!

Taghia, 7b+, tres ponts

Proper onsight battle! The initial groove was hard all the way until I found myself at the top, suddenly I couldn’t quite figure out where to go and I was on a semi-rest… took me ages to figure out/commit to the sequence which set the tone as I was then quite tired for the rest and it felt very on/off at the top. With a bit of beta flo made it look way more cruisy  (opposite experiences on instinct salvatge on a previous day)

As Ramsden said “proper corner tekkin”

Fleck, 7b, collegats

The last route of the trip and one that I had failed to redpoint a good few years earlier. Did it after a really good onsight go at the 7c to the right so my forearms were still cooking a bit and I just had a great time on it, with enough rests to keep it manageable but I was definitely starting to redline towards the end at times. Kind of feels like a big sea cliff E6.

Top UK sport

Ten Year Fog 7b+, pantymwyn

Did this after work with a mate- he went up put the clips in and gave me  some knowledge. I had a dog and then somehow pulled it out the bag next go!! We did the RH finish which to be honest I very nearly fell off, but I can’t help but feel it’s a cop out. My excuse is I was following Jordi’s beta! He did it the go after me too which was mega!

Hamish Teddy’s Excellent Adventure, 7b+, Dunkeld

Mega! Stopped off here on our r way up north and back down south and really liked the place. Had a bit of a torrid time on ultima necat on the way up (after a very eventful ascent of Rat Race) on the way back down fired ultima off first go putting the clips in then went for a flash of Hamish, got through all the hard bits only to get the wrong bit of a hold and go wrong handed on the next sequence! Great route though so no trial to have to do it again. Another time where flo was on blinding form absolutely pissing both of these in a day.

 Top 3 boulders

2023 was a year where I didn’t get all that close to my best in bouldering terms, despite actually ticking off some 7A+ over summer when I’d usually be fit and weak. The autumn/winter has either seen me busy or the weather not play ball.

Help the Young, 7A+, Stanage Plantation Had the week off work and on a beautiful day was heading out with my gf, she suggested we go out with some good friends which I was very keen for. Then they said they were going to try HTY. Having tried it yonks ago I remember it feeling desperate and having a skin tearing pebble on the edge you jump for so wasn’t keen (I also don’t really like the plantation), but the sociable nature of the day won out. We had a tough time of it in the fairly warm October sun, trying it bridging in to work the top. Flo managed it, Maddie had a power spot and found she could span the top but it was fairly limit and I really struggled with the last move.
I decided to get the first move sorted ready for a return, weirdly I found the move easy from the get go. Soon enough I’ve fallen off the top with it feeling tantalisingly close. The pads started to get moved and I consider just going with the group. But no “can I just have one quick go?” All of a sudden I’m looking at that move to the ledge and it looks closer than before, I get it with the tips of my fingers, bump and sketch my way through the top a happy happy man.

Totoro, 7A+, llanberis pass

Crazy that this has only just been climbed as it’s probably one of the best boulders in the pass, can be seen from the road and isn’t far from a path. The landing is a bit dodgy but it kind of adds to it as the top feels really quite spicy! Great afternoon out with a few friends. Hazel had done it before but was psyched to do the low extension and after I did the normal start I got the low extension sorted, but didn’t quite get it… very keen to go back as it’s really cool and the boulder is made of that great plexus buttress grippy rock. Yum yum.

The Minimum, 7A+, Llanberis Pass

Have tried this in the past and thought it was desperate. Don’t think it’s particularly amazing but felt good to do in the middle of summer as it’s something I’d be chuffed at doing in the winter. Again a lovely evening after work with Hazel and Angus, chatting, joking about and climbing on a beaut eve. S’what it’s all about innit?

Top spankings

The weather!! Half of the Scottish trip was very difficult as it would rain in the middle of the day. And both my sport projects (Powerplant and canyonlands) got wet. Lord was pretty consistently wet too.

At times my mental health hasn’t been great, but I do feel way more on it with seeing it and doing something about it sooner now, and have come to the realisation that this journey has no end. I have also had loads of times where I feel like I had my mental health in a good state, and really felt appreciative of that. So also some element of swings and roundabouts I guess?


As ever, a good year! Here’s to a dry, and mildly warm summer after a nice dry late winter  ;D
« Last Edit: January 03, 2024, 04:39:40 pm by Duncan campbell »

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#86 Re: Best of 2023
January 03, 2024, 05:50:09 pm
Fell relays
First time at the fell relay champs. Did leg 1 (4.6k/460m), and performed much better than anticipated given the quality of the field, and my less than ideal year. Absolutely emptied myself, raced really hard for the duration, and felt it with the thigh DOMs for a few days after, but was over the moon to manage to do as well as I did. It's in Yorkshire next year so I'l be aiming to do it again, improve on that placing, and enjoy it - it's a fab event.

Nice write up generally, lovely and honest and good to hear from fellow punters (offence not intended). Hope things pick up.

I just wanted to piggyback on the relays and add that to my list. I too have had a mixed year of running and definitely slowing down (sub-20 5k thoroughly out of reach). Call it post-covid, age, focusing on other stuff, plain lazyness, but I've come to realise I love a good race regardless of slim training. There's people to battle against at whatever point in the field and times don't matter too much offroad. I absolutely love the Relays (this was my prompt to finally join a club years ago, when they were local to me). I've managed to snag a place most years and very happy to do so again. I suspect because the pool of people willing to point a compass in the club is smaller still than those up for the race. We were pretty well matched pair and only 1 slightly duff line late on, that lots of others took. Hope to see you in Yorks next year!

No offence taken - I'd be deluded if I didn't notice the difference between my grades and most others in this thread!  :lol: cheers

Spot on about the racing... no matter where in the field, you're surrounded by people trying hard, and it's a great feeling. I think I know what you mean about the bad line towards the end - my teammates were saying they did something similar to reach the last checkpoint, lots of bracken and heather I seem to recall? I clearly got away with it on my leg, no route choice required!
Yep looking forward to it, good luck :)

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#87 Re: Best of 2023
January 03, 2024, 06:48:59 pm
Timing my hits for when my MS isn't too bad

Have you tried HBOT treatment? No magic bullet, but many find it helps with symptom management.
I haven't tried that yet, need to talk with the consultant but it's been a year since my last appointment.
I had a pal who used it after an accident nearly crippled him and his response was excellent.
Thanks, I will chase it up.

Some consultants rate it, some are less up to speed. All are run by charities, so there's no need to actually bother consulting. It's entirely harmless unless you have COPD which, clearly, you don't. I could put you in touch with someone I know in his mid 40s who almost entirely keeps the symptoms at bay with a session or two a week (he started early).

I think you're Inverness based?

This lot are up that way: https://theoxygenworks.com/  I wrote about using it when I fucked my PCL 14 years ago - I had a very quick and satisfactory recovery. http://pcl-rehab.blogspot.com/

Quote
Did you do the True Finish to Shibboleth?
It was 30+ years ago and still fresh in my mind...

Yes we did, and they're very much the icing on the cake - great pitches!

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#88 Re: Best of 2023
January 03, 2024, 09:11:08 pm
It has been a slow year on the climbing front, other than a couple of trips to font, where I spent my time motoring round easy circiuts, outdoor stuff has been few and far between. I think this is down to a combination of niggling injuries, family health issues and realising that nowhere has bouldering as good as font (plus distracted by caving + fell rescue stuff.

Looking back I did actually have some good days out on rock:


Top 3 Routes

Chequers buttress – Froggat

An early season day out in February ticking classics I had never been on. I enjoyed this, nice moves, nice spot and good company. Felt like I stole this from winter A 15 star day.

Dewerstone
Climbing here with the friend of graviton fame, we did some of the steady multipitches which was super chilled, and whilst non of the climbing was world class, it was brilliant to see an old friend, and even better, get them out on rock in the sun.

Red Pencil direct / hell gill

After a quick hit down then up hell gill (worth a dip in the summer), me and will called in at Penyghent to get on red pencil direct. As we geared up, the storm clouds gathered. Climbing up the mountain-like grit, I lead upwards aware the darkness was coming. We topped out and fat rain started falling as we descended the grassy gully. This increased and increased until we were running down to Horton, both completely piss wrapped. A fun day out.

Top Boulder problems


Graviton – Sabots

My friend who no longer climbed flashed this more than a decade ago. I’d been meaning to get on it since then, and had an opportunity early doors. I turned up alone to see some friendly frenchies there, sliding off the top. On my first go I got the good hold, but slapped around hoping for better. Error! A second abortive go quickly went, before I grappled my way to the top. I then shuffled off for some “easy” circuit for the rest of the day. Boss.

Aprement yellows - font

I found myself with one day in font whilst in transit in the middle of summer. Staying in Barbizon I strolled in the village, picked up some pastries and continued walking on in to the woods sans pad, I cruised round the Aprement Bizons yellow circuit. Delightful. I stopped off at le cabin for le kit-kat et un coke, then went back for another yellow circuit at Butte aux Dames. After a week of primarily wearing wellies and boots, it felt like ballet in the woods.

The groove – Caley
Having fallen off this stonking problem for at least 1 session a while ago, I somehow managed to magic my way up this. Proper technique and gritstone magic required for me. A gem. Honourable mention to mr smooth sit. A nemesis from 10+ years ago, which I despatched this winter with no problems.

Top adventures
Canyoing in the Vercors
I’ve always meant to do it but never got round to it. I ended up on a caving trip down there with some people with canyoning know how too. I cannot express how fucking good this is. Started off in the “lower ecouge”. I vividly remember abseiling down the first 20 odd meter waterfall thinking “how did I get here”, “this is amazing” and “don’t let go of the rope” as I was pummelled with water. The canyon was like a playground, abs off the end of ropes into pools, jumps, swimming, scrambling. Incredible. Clearly hooked we did a few more trips, the highlight was a 2 person trip down the upper ecouge. This felt like a big boy canyon. Steep, inescapable and committing. At one point I went down first down a 20m + pitch into a churning pool, with second larger waterfall about 5 meters away. I couldn’t stop thinking about how wild this situation was. Anyway. If you get the chance, get to it!

Fuertaventura west coast
I am a beach break surfer. I love the sea, but generally make it up as I go along. I went on a surf course for a few days, and on one day we paddled out to a reef break (calleta inside). After a quick briefing “paddle there, don’t paddle there, ready to die!”  three of us followed the instructor, paddling out like little ducklings to get out back. Obviously I stacked it on my first attempt, and for bonus points my board got ripped off me. I got it back within a minute or two, but it felt pretty spicey for a bit! Leash re-attached, I paddled back out a few more times, got washed plenty, and my arms got absolutely wasted. I never managed to get the bottom turn in and surf along the wave, but it felt ace to be out there in amongst it. Incredible experience and made me feel that maybe I could surf proper waves one day….

Caving
Had a great year of caving, mostly in the dales ticking of mega classic fun trips. I am now significantly less of a liability than I was, and generally more useful underground which is a nice feeling. One particular standout is the Gournier in the Vercors, which involved paddling a boat across an underground lake, walking through mind blowing cavernous chambers of flowstone for hours, and an underground canyoning like experience, involving swimming, jumping and climbing up waterfalls (in a wetsuit). Was pure type 1 fun (until a member of the team had an epic, but all survived). If you only ever do one cave, I'd make it this one!

Spankings

Alick – Trowbarrow

After not climbing routes for ages, never mind sport, I got absolutely boxed out of my tree on this and climbed like a right lemon. Failing on a 6b+, on top rope no less, made me realise how poor my endurance has become. To be honest the whole day was a shambles! Time to put some effort in!

Caving:

Langcliff pot in the dales. I didn’t achieve what I hoped which was to visit a rarely visited spot (past nemesis choke), because I couldn’t fit through a squeeze (the one out of Boireaus fall chamber), but I did feel completely wrecked afterwards. I love the feeling of being completely wasted, and getting out of the entrance crawls was joyous. The walk down in the evening sun made me psyched for living in Yorkshire. The problem is I have to go back and try again at some point, once my elbows have forgiven me...

Theres a longer write up of that trip for anyone interested:
https://whiterosepotholeclub.wordpress.com/2023/09/11/langcliffe-pot-oddmire-entrance-friday-8th-september-2023-by-huw-goodall/



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#89 Re: Best of 2023
January 04, 2024, 12:11:53 pm
Time for my annual post  :P
Guess it's been a big year for me, outrageous difference from 2019/2020 me. Nice. Body health and mindset are doing much better. Also just really enjoying climbing at the moment.

Top 3 FAs

Durin’s Bane
Filling in a hard gap at a well frequented (by beasts) crag, as well as dealing with injury from the climb, and life-stress, turned out to be a tricky thing for me. Moves are good, my friends have been trying it and like it. I had fun obsessing over it and playing on the moves lots. Also the first time I’ve said 8 anything for an FA. Love this one.

Sand County Almanac Isel/Eryr Gwernabwy
Two in one here as it was a weekend of fun and enablement by the same group of close friends from S. Wales. Sand County is a stunner line, and I didn’t realise I was even adding a low start until the day after. Powerful stuff on big holds, some tech, and some spice. Eryr is the most trad-boulder I’ve ever put up, and with mats it’s even dead safe. Ridiculous position and feature, 6A climbing, day-rescuer, and the weekend with mates that I needed.

Man O’ War
My birthday gift to myself. Helped with getting over post-PhD stress. A bit of a silly wet challenge at the time, amazing swims, and then it burned an 8B monster off in the same style as his recent crowning ascent. Also pretty good.

Top 3 Non-FAs

Blankety Blank/Firing Blanks
Did both of these the same session, after a few of not sticking the ledge earlier in the year. Last boulders of 2023, unexpected, and low-pressure.

Deep Low Boom Low/The Extension Will Eat Itself
First time doing two new to me 7C-or-harder boulders in a day which was a goal for a long time. Also great to see old uni mates.

Vault of Glass Sit
One of those where you think you’ve got no chance, then you think it’ll go super fast, then you bleed a lot, then you fail for a while more, and then you do it. Low pressure prevails. Great moves.

Life
Finished the PhD
Got a fun job in science
Moved in with the girlfriend which has been great

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#90 Re: Best of 2023
January 04, 2024, 02:01:50 pm
Climbing

The best of 23 for me was to return to Font for the first time for about 7 years.

I took my youngest, Sam, for a long weekend to overlap with my partner taking her son (Finn) for a week with a larger group. The weather was awful and we barely got any climbing done but there were a couple of great moments…

Le Toit Au Gratons
A wet morning, a damp trudge into Cul de Chien, then waiting…. Toit De Cul De Chien was wet in the pockets so the team of keen youths tried this instead. There was Finn (15) and Dylan and Bryn Heason. They each had a couple of goes. Then Sam ambled over and asked if he could have a go. Sam is 11 and pretty small with it, Bryn and Dylan had never really met him before so they could easily have been a bit dismissive or amused by the idea, after all here’s a tiny skinny little kid wanting to climb with the big boys…
But not even in the slightest, all three were super encouraging, pointing out the holds, talking through a sequence, holding up a chalk bag for him, spotting. I didn’t try it, but still a climbing highlight of the trip. FWIW he had a decent go at it and got pretty much as far as the other three had, but the big deal was the amazing attitude of the other three. Then it rained…

Magic Bus
Lamp session, desperate hunting for dry rock. I’ve previously done this, but not in my current aged condition… was with Finn and Sam. Just there for an hour working out the moves/sequence. Was brilliant. We all had different sequences and throughout the session made different rates of progress, but ultimately we all got from the start to the last move, which we all dropped. Again everyone was just SYKED for us all to make progress, discussing the minutiae of sequences and suggesting tweaks. Climbing with kids is brilliant.

I’ve rekindled my joy of climbing. But being honest the best part of 23 was being around to see the development of the kids climbing.

Work

Still takes up too much of my life, I really need to try and change this through 24…

Life

Life remains complex and challenging. I live in the Peak and my kids live on the Isle of Man. But whilst it’s not perfect, we seem to have a setup that mostly works for the kids.

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#91 Re: Best of 2023
January 04, 2024, 02:47:38 pm
Spartan Slab, VS, Beinn Trilleachan
First day of a trip to Glencoe. Started as it was drying from the rain, quickly got drier and cleaner after the first half a pitch. Crux was bizarre, surely not 4c, but ended up circumventing it across the slab to the right - almost certainly technically harder but more my cup of tea.

What are you calling the crux? The crux is surely getting out of the recess and onto the rib? 5a in most guides, but well protected.

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#92 Re: Best of 2023
January 04, 2024, 04:55:07 pm
Top 3 Trad

A Midsummers Night’s Dream, Cloggy.

By far and away the best climbing day of the year. Total team effort. Crag bone dry. Tuffty led the first (very bold) pitch, I led pitches 2 and 3. No-one had done the 3rd pitch this year (the chalk ran out) and I very nearly backed off as I couldn’t work out what to do. I wasn’t completely happy with the gear either. In the end with the help of my toothbrush I managed to unlock the sequence and commit. The feeling of standing up on that top slab with the sweep of Great Wall below was fantastic and a bit surreal in equal measure. We then abbed down IF – Wow!

The Cruise, Gogarth Upper Tier

In a way a consolation prize as I wimped out of going down to the Main Cliff. I wasn’t ready to strap it onto Main Cliff E6. Pleased to fire this notorious pump-fest off with no dramas. Afterwards we top roped The Bells! which terrified us.

Nah’han, Gardoms.

Climbs like a Depot ‘purple’! A cold mid-October Sunday with 50% humidity. You don’t get many of them!

Top 2 Sport

Dharma, Duke’s Quarry

Seeing as BB called it a sport route and I didn’t do many proper sport routes…
I cleaned this in June ’21 and had been itching to get back ever since. It needs a very specific set of conditions (prolonged dry period (i.e. summer), low humidity and wind). It took two sessions (we needed a session to clean it and then for it to dry back enough). I loved everything about this route – the esoteric setting and impressive wall, the hard-won conditions and the safe but runout style.

Top Loader, Millstone.

Maybe even more of a sport route than Dharma. You place a couple of wires at the start and some cams off the big rest. It’s ‘clip and go’ on all the tricky bits. Brilliant climbing and hard F7c IMO. It was quite a cold April evening and after falling on my first attempt I had to dig deep to claw through the crux traverse.

Top bouldering

I mainly bouldered very locally – see below. Or tried stuff that I didn’t do, but am keen to try again (e.g. Blackfoot). Enjoyed a few evenings in September at Rubicon. It was as much about the place/time of year. I was pleased to repeat The Press and put a bit of time into the start of Plectrum MD.

Top running

I’ve struggled with running in 2023, mainly due to renewed trad psyche, partly because I lost a bit of interest and partly because I injured my bad ankle in June. I only did 3 races but managed 1500km for the year. My most enjoyable running was probably some of the longer interval sessions I did in preparation for a road 10k (5 x 1 mile, 3 x 2 miles). Or maybe a PB on the White Edge/Froggatt loop at the end of May in road shoes it was so dry.

Top spanking

Blind Ali’s Date, Remergence. I used this as a quick outside hit with no pressure or expectations. 10 sessions this year. Got my left hand on the lip once. On the 2nd session.

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#93 Re: Best of 2023
January 04, 2024, 04:58:04 pm
Spartan Slab, VS, Beinn Trilleachan
First day of a trip to Glencoe. Started as it was drying from the rain, quickly got drier and cleaner after the first half a pitch. Crux was bizarre, surely not 4c, but ended up circumventing it across the slab to the right - almost certainly technically harder but more my cup of tea.

What are you calling the crux? The crux is surely getting out of the recess and onto the rib? 5a in most guides, but well protected.

That sounds like it? Pitch 3, climb up and left into a slightly awkward recess, then have to get a very high right foot/leg and rock onto a slab/slight corner, before up and then right into the long traverse to the next belay.

I've not checked my book*, just saw UKC said 4c while flicking through writing my post in here. Maybe 5a is fair and I was missing a trick, you're right it is well protected so not a major issue. I just know that I'm normally decent at those high feet kinda rockover moves and this felt absolutely desperate - and I do manage 5a normally!

As for my variation, instead of leaving the belay and going left to the recess, I went right to where the hanging slab can be accessed more easily and then did a few blank steps padding left to the position after the crux. This was not well protected, but like I said originally, I like that kind of thing, and had exhausted seemingly all possibilities on the proper way to go!  :shrug:

* I have now checked, and Wired Scottish Rock Climbs says 5a

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#94 Re: Best of 2023
January 04, 2024, 10:01:15 pm
My climbing year was slow to start, never really got going, and ended not with a bang but a whimper.

Best (only) routes - done during a week in the Blanca, after 2 years of only bouldering - so I had no stamina and stuck to easy wins and enjoying the warmth:

Lo's - Gandia - 7a- o/s - lovely tufa-draped cave climbing.
Última Albertència - Gandia - 6c+ - o/s - as above...
A la Babila - Gandia - 7a+ - o/s - and as above again!
El principi i el fi - Guadalest - 6a+ - o/s - I did this as a single pitch (20ish draws) and it was one of those warm-ups that can ruin a day! Very good; sustained crimping  - stern but fair for 6a+ if you find the holds!

Bouldering - due to weather and lack of psyche, I never really got going with the local targets, and almost everything decent I did was during short holidays - so no properly working anything.  No "big ticks", even by my paltry standards, but some nice days.

Northern Soul and Arse Soul - Llanberis Pass - I did better problems during this spell (e.g. King of the Drunks), but it's a nice memory because a pair of "yoofs" arrived when I was on the verge of leaving and their psyche was contagious and encouraged me to keep going.  I went from being a bit pissy that my peace and crossword solving had been disturbed to properly bouncing off our efforts and doing a couple of extra problems.

Hades Lair, Lad Stones - nice positive and steep climbing. Mainly memorable for the contrast of topping it out and then getting a call from a solicitor, who reamed me, and then having to arrange,while still sat under the boulder, spending the next day of my holiday finger-tip searching through half a tonne (literally) of fire debris.

Emyr's Arete and Emyr's Arete Direct - a bit sharp but such good features with a great view.

Blood Moon - Cwm Glas Bach- crimpy traversing in a dank slot, on a sunny day - truly my safe space (after getting nowhere near The Hand Rails of Crib Goch).

A day at Dow - not really any great climbing - the main tick was The Gene, which wasn’t all that. But it was more about the day in its entirety - the satisfaction of the walk-in and the beautiful location - tarn below, crag above.  I could have done with it being less hot mind you (and taking only 0.5Lof water was,in retrospect, a huge mistake - walking back was like "Ice Cold in Alex"!).



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#95 Re: Best of 2023
January 05, 2024, 10:11:10 am
Impressed you tried to get to the bottom of there.....Still probably the hardest trip in the Country.....

Caving:[/b]
Langcliff pot in the dales. I didn’t achieve what I hoped which was to visit a rarely visited spot (past nemesis choke), because I couldn’t fit through a squeeze (the one out of Boireaus fall chamber), but I did feel completely wrecked afterwards. I love the feeling of being completely wasted, and getting out of the entrance crawls was joyous. The walk down in the evening sun made me psyched for living in Yorkshire. The problem is I have to go back and try again at some point, once my elbows have forgiven me...

Theres a longer write up of that trip for anyone interested:
https://whiterosepotholeclub.wordpress.com/2023/09/11/langcliffe-pot-oddmire-entrance-friday-8th-september-2023-by-huw-goodall/
[/quote]

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#96 Re: Best of 2023
January 05, 2024, 10:17:19 am

As for my variation, instead of leaving the belay and going left to the recess, I went right to where the hanging slab can be accessed more easily and then did a few blank steps padding left to the position after the crux. This was not well protected, but like I said originally, I like that kind of thing, and had exhausted seemingly all possibilities on the proper way to go!  :shrug:

Pretty sure I did the same. As for the crux, my gangly legs couldn't get onto the slab, so i kind of had to belly slither onto it. which was fine, except for large cam getting pulled across and hitting me in the nuts. Great route, love to do some of the harder stuff there.

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#97 Re: Best of 2023
January 05, 2024, 10:19:27 am
Similar to Moose, slow start, slow middle, glacial end (unless you count indoors). Most of the best stuff has been days out rather than specific routes/problems.

Routes :-
- Day at Bamford - Happy Wanderer, Neb Buttress Direct, Randy's Wall amongst others. I'd only been to Bamford in the winter since it became an Instagram venue, so I'd never seen the extent people go to for the 'gram. Routes highlight was Happy Wanderer, but the highlight of the day was being asked to move while belaying at the top of Randy's Wall as I was spoiling someone's photo. They didn't look impressed when I pointed out the ropes I was attached to.
- Mutiny Crack, Burbage North - one of those routes I'd never soloed as it looked intimidating, but would never bother tying on for (if I ever took a rope to Burbage North). Finally got round to doing it and it's f**king brilliant.

Bouldering :-
- Harland Edge - I'd been to the right end of Harland before and done a few problems, but got rained off. Made it further over this time and got a bit more done before getting rained off again. Highlight for me was The Merkin - not usually into bunchy sit starts at 6'3", but the moves on this were great.
- Carrhead Rocks - if this was anywhere other than 500m from Stanage, it might get a bit more traffic. Nice to get some new stuff done at a reasonable grade so close to home. Highlight was probably Afterbirth.
- Farley Woods - I've spent quite a bit of time in the Churnet, but never gone over the road. After failing on something in awful conditions, I decided to explore and had an hour at the Amazing Tree block before I had to head back. The following visit I went straight up to New Kingdom and then worked my way back stopping at a few other spots then finishing at Amazing Tree again. Brilliant day out and felt totally worked on the way home.

Running :-
- Hayfield May Queen - first race back after Covid at the start of the year. Felt pretty strong on the climb, but my descending was a bit tentative due to lack of races. Still had a decent finish in me and took back a few places on the road - 7th and 1st vet.
- Christmas Week - came down with post-viral symptoms in June and really struggled for 5 months. Running completely exhausted me and, particularly if I went out in the evening, I'd struggle to sleep and be exhausted for a few days after. A couple of false starts getting any sort of consistency going, but finally managed to get a sustained period of running together in October. By mid-December I was up to 75% of normal miles, albeit at a very ploddy pace and still struggling with elevated HR. Christmas week is the first time I've felt almost normal running and it feels great - had a couple of runs with some mates and another with my wife, didn't feel like I had to go out on my own to avoid slowing everyone down. Actually feel like I can go into 2024 with some positivity about what's coming.

dunnyg

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#98 Re: Best of 2023
January 05, 2024, 12:12:51 pm
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Impressed you tried to get to the bottom of there.....Still probably the hardest trip in the Country.....

I think I would have been in an absolute state if we'd made it to the end! I would have loved to get into the sacred way though. I understand why people want to cap that squeeze though. I felt a long way from home as I sat in it willing myself through. Have you been through the other side?

seankenny

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#99 Re: Best of 2023
January 05, 2024, 12:23:40 pm
For those of us that don’t know about caving but are utterly horrified by it, how tight is this squeeze and how long does it go on for?

 

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