It was a great experience visiting Delhi for archival work even if I did get the inevitable food poisoning.
Quote from: spidermonkey09 on December 30, 2023, 06:11:41 pmIt was a great experience visiting Delhi for archival work even if I did get the inevitable food poisoning.Were you investigating English language archives or have you developed some pukka South Asian language skills? Delhi is such a great city though, even taking into account the food poisoning (the food is very often worth it).
Superb. Like everyone else says, the best thread of the year. Flippin' heck, you guys are productive. Top work all round.For me, 2023 was another year of settling further into my very specific niche of local boulder development. The hills and glens close to home keep throwing up new walls and boulders to clean and climb and I've found some really good stuff that I'm sure others would enjoy if they made the effort to try (and I made it easier for people to find stuff). An aim for 2024 is to put together a decent topo of the area.Local stuff fits conveniently into the only times I'm able to get out: last-minute weather-window sessions squeezed between school drop off and pick up. Between the arrival of kids, Covid and previous partners being less active or harder to meet up with, I've become a bit of a hermit and very rarely climb with other people. For the most part I'm OK with that as I'm very happy in my own company, but it's something I'd like to work to change in 2024. Especially as I'm really starting to miss routes and I suspect the new local bouldering will start to dry up soon. The opening of The Ledge, the new wall in Inverness, has made me realise that there is a wee scene in the area, and I'd like to get a bit more involved in that.Saying all that, I did manage a few brilliant things further afield this year.Top 3 Boulder problems:The Essence, 7B+, Torridon. A lifetime goal realised. Absolute king line in one of my favourite places in the world. This one was all the more special as I spotted Rich when he was working on it before his FA 13 years ago and helped carry pads and film when Murdoch made the 2nd ascent a few months later. I didn't even try it back then as it was so far above my pay grade, so coming full circle and being able to do it 13 years later felt great. Rich seemed dead chuffed for me after I told him I did it, which was lovely.https://1drv.ms/v/s!AgFZlnhmwSBm9wt5vL9STtJSrUSVTP&QC, 7A(+?) Reiff in the Woods. I'd wanted to do this for years as it's one of the original north west classics, from the first proper era of boulder development by Lawrence Hughes, Ian Taylor et al in the early 2000s. But it doesn't seem to get much attention these days and the start always seemed really hard and committing, moving between double heelhooks on teeny crimps in a roof with a big block almost underneath you in the fall zone. The day I did it Lawrence came out to spot me, and having the first ascentionist there obviously gave me a couple of extra kilos of pulling power on the crimps.The Faith, 7A+, Ardmair. Objectively, this isn't an amazing problem, but it meant alot to me to finally do. I spent loads of sessions trying it a few years ago only to drop the easy finish and then give up on it after it started giving me elbow issues. A few years later (and maybe wiser and stronger) I managed to get it done.https://www.instagram.com/reel/C0j9eJ1t5zn/?igsh=anpicDd2bjJ6em94Top 3 Boulder problem FAsHypernature, 7Bish, Landmark Roof, Strathconon. The hardest straight-up line following a hanging ramp through the middle of a roof. Took a while to work out.https://www.instagram.com/reel/CwQGplftHrN/?igsh=MnhyYTB4Nzc0ZTNoGauger's Groove, 7Bish, Scatwell Wave, Strathconon. A very cryptic problem up an obvious hanging groove. Slopers, undercuts and a blind foot swap.Very satisfying.https://www.instagram.com/reel/CpScCaGjemF/?igsh=eGpqczlxa3VzcjM0The Trap, 6C+ish, Càrn na Cloiche Mòire, Strathconon. A truly memorable day that brought together so much of what I love: a boulder I spotted on a run years ago squirrelled away in my memory, a long sweaty approach laden with pad and cleaning gear. The quiet and solitude of the hills. A quick clean on a rope and then a while to unlock the moves. Did it. Did it again for the camera. Did it again cos it was so fun. Then the long descent back to the car. It'll never be repeated, but that really doesn't matter.https://www.instagram.com/p/CwsUB8ltPsv/?igsh=djRkcDRtbW5oZXI=Top Trad RouteThe File, Higgar TorA lowly VS, but back when I was climbing way more trad and onsighting E3s and occasional E4s I'm confident I would have fallen off this. Older, wiser and more proficient at jamming, I just about got up it unscathed. But only just.Only trad FAAfterdrop E3 5c (ish), Wee River Wall, GlenmarksieWhile boulder hunting on home turf I noticed this neat wee wall and arete above the River Conon with a handy belay ledge just above the lapping water. It's a shame there's not anything else on the wall as it's a good little route.https://www.instagram.com/p/CsEdUYON9VN/?img_index=1
Timing my hits for when my MS isn't too bad
Quote from: sherlock on January 02, 2024, 02:43:12 pmTiming my hits for when my MS isn't too bad Have you tried HBOT treatment? No magic bullet, but many find it helps with symptom management.
It feels a bit weird to talk about how my partner's medical issues affect me, in that it's obviously not my body and pain, but it has had a massive impact on my life in terms of changes to both long-term plans and day-to-day life, and at times I've essentially been a carer. It’s brutal watching someone that you love experience pain and lack of hope and inability to do the things that they enjoy, and hard to go off and do some of the things that they can’t do in order to meet your own needs. On that note, she’s also been superhumanly compassionate and understanding on days when she’s been bed-bound and I’ve come home from a day out climbing and complained to her about poor conditions or a split tip.
Wtf is the top of this route! Start was tricky, fell once or twice. Moving round the arête was actually fine, with some locked in crimps (and well protected after having George send up the nuts I forgot oops). Got into the top groove, where all the holds ran out. Managed the foot step far out left (dirty) and then it all just ran out. Ended up grabbing heather, then grass, then moss, before it gave way. Managed to lie there motionless for about 5 seconds before giving in and taking the whip. Huge swing, but nice catch from George and all was good! Growing darkness probably didn't help, but i'm still a bit lost for what to do. I guess I'll work it out next time.
I always understood toxic masculinity to be men actually bullying each other for crying and shit, but it was quite a moment when I realised it also can apply to the feeling of not wanting to talk about it, out of some sort of deep self defence mechanism. Like I knew consciously that nobody would laugh in my face for wanting to talk, but somehow I always convinced myself out of it for all sorts of nonsense reasons.(It sucks that it took the breakup of a long relationship to have this realisation, and speaking to others, that seems a common theme. If only we (men, maybe just people generally) never backed ourselves into this self destructive corner in the first place!)When I finally did start to speak to people, it changed everything. It's no miracle, but I certainly wouldn't be where I am today if it was just me in my own head.