the shizzle > diet, training and injuries

Incut vs flat holds

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James Malloch:
I’ve got a load of flat edges on my board which i never use as they are just too small (10-12mm including the rounded edge).

I’m going to add a bit of incut into them but unsure how much to go for.

It will be a bit of faff as i don’t have the right tools so will try to do them at a friend’s. It would be good to hey some views on it first.

So I wondered if anyone had played around with different degrees of incut? I want to keep them hard, but i don’t know if doing, say, just 2 degrees would make a big difference, or if it would need more to be noticeable.

The wall is only 25 degrees so i find that even small holes with a decent incut are really good. So keen to do the minimum that will make enough difference to hold them.

Fultonius:
Can you not do a couple at home by hand (sanding block) and tweak them until they seem right?  I found the hardest thing to get right with more incut edges on a less steep board was not making them nasty. That said, its probably good to have a few nasties to prep the finger, but mine were often just too aggressive.

User deactivated.:
Could you set them as sidepulls that you compress against? That could make them usable, even if they're just intermediates? Otherwise, how about making some shallow volumes to subtly change the angles?

sdm:
Can you borrow a belt sander from someone for a few days? That's what I've used and they're quick and easy to modify holds with.

When I've modified holds, it's been an iterative process of sanding them a bit, seeing how they feel on the board, then sand them a bit more. Repeat until you're happy.

I think you'll be lucky to get them right first time remotely.

James Malloch:
Thanks for the replies. I think you’re right that I should have a play with some at home first. Maybe I’ll try and have a go at one with a sanding block tomorrow before doing a batch of them elsewhere.

I guess that as I want to take so little off maybe it won’t be as hard as I imagined.

The smallest holds are 6mm flat edge and plus 4mm of rounded bevel. I’ve tried some as side pulls but they are just too small for me (too likely to ping off whilst trying to full crimp). I added a thumb catch to one which meant I could use it as a start hold, but there’s no way I could have moved on to it.

I have quite a few on the board which I don’t use now but I think with a small tweak they could create a load of challenging holds and add lots more variety to the problems I am setting 🙂

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