[account_inactive]

The big undercut with the fresh scar around it on the terrace - Is it new?
This seems a bit of a gift for V10 if its alway been like that

Sorry if this has already been discussed as I couldn't be arsed doing a search

[dave]

what, the low crimpy undercut or the one higher up (i.e. cathing it the crux) which is like bigger but flat?

[account_inactive]

The big one (about 3 inchs) for the right hand once you have got your left in the pocket

[dave]

dunno, think that always had some orange around it like it may have once broken. huffy should be able to say what it was like on the FA.

sound like you're using some different sequence from what most use - what i've always been shown was left hadn sloper, right hand crimp sidepull, pull on with left heel on, slap RH up to this bigger sidepull (crux), then left hadn up to bulletscar than it gets easier.

[dobbin]

Huffmaster, wizz zeez problemz you are weally spoiling us...

[account_inactive]

To be fair it was my mate who tried it.  My fingers were fucked by the time I got to it.

He was going:  left hand side pull, right hand undercut, left heel and then up with left hand to pocket on face and right into said undercut.

He had the top wired pretty quickly so I'm just going off what he said.  This whack beta could be why it felt so fuckin hard to get the pocket with the left hand!

[account_inactive]

Huffmaster, wizz zeez problemz you are weally spoiling us...

[Bonjoy]

seems a bit of a gift for V10

 Not for long. It's going in the new book at 7c (V9).

[BoulderHog]

I always thought it was left hand up first to shot hole, then right up to side pull, sort feet and go again to flat crimp with right before the blind slap to the big pocket with left. Feels very hard in anything other than winter conditions, when it feels piss. I would say it was 7C+ though, unless the different start makes it easier, the first move is by far the hardest, hiting and holding the pocket with the left hand is a proper lottery move and no mistake.

I wouldn't downgrade the Terrace if I were you, it would get 7C+ in Font. What you gonna give Brad Pitt out of interest - 7B+ or 7C? As the polish is only gonna get worse, I'd say 7C is a safe bet.

[Nigel]

To be fair it was my mate who tried it.  My fingers were fucked by the time I got to it.

He was going:  left hand side pull, right hand undercut, left heel and then up with left hand to pocket on face and right into said undercut.

He had the top wired pretty quickly so I'm just going off what he said.  This whack beta could be why it felt so fuckin hard to get the pocket with the left hand!

Not whack beta, that's how I did it! The worst beta I've seen is Bent Spoon who does it without the bullet scar, going for the good edge off the shit starting LH sloper. The reason being he'd "never noticed that hold".  :silly: The top is actually OK when you've got it sorted.

[Ru]

The move out left to the shot hole is ok when you get your heel right - easily staticable. The "blind slap to the pocket" also goes static if you really pull with your left heel. And therein lies the grading difficulty. If you can pull like  fuck with your left heel it feels piss, if you can't, it's really hard. It's 7c or 7c+.

If I were doing split grades I'd give it 7c/7c+, but we made a decision not to. Therefore it's one or the other, and it fell on the 7c side.

Brad Pit has sneaked back up to 7c+ after an outcry when I tried it at 7c. That's democracy.

Can I point out that they are only grades.

[a dense loner]

then why change them :wink:  

[Ru]

It's my job.

[Bonjoy]

then why change them :wink:  

 So you think Ru should keep Brad Pit at B13(font8b), as it is in the current guide then? :roll:

[dave]

i'd do what percy says and take 8b!

[account_inactive]

Might be the only way that Percy ever climbs 8b

[BoulderHog]

Arrgghh The Terrace is harder than Brad Pitt, and both use heel hooks so having strong heels should help on both right? I would say Brad gets 7C, and the low side of that, and The Terrace 7C+, again on the low side of the grade but still up there. Here's an idea, lets just keep the grades as they are, both 7C+. Check 8a for a consensus, you'll find most give the terrace 7C+ and BP 7C anyway.

But you're right it is only grades and I'm not all that bothered if you gave them both 7a, it's just I wouldn't. Maybe there should be a 'What grade do you think this is' section, where people writing new guide books can get a wide variety of opinions rather than just what they and a few of their mates think.

By the way I'm looking forward to the new guide  

[Nigel]

Arrgghh The Terrace is harder than Brad Pitt, and both use heel hooks so having strong heels should help on both right? I would say Brad gets 7C, and the low side of that, and The Terrace 7C+, again on the low side of the grade but still up there. Here's an idea, lets just keep the grades as they are, both 7C+.

Agree with all of that. I don't care what they get in the guide though because they are both made out of really old mud.

[a dense loner]

So you think Ru should keep Brad Pit at B13(font8b)

the way it feels to me it may as well be. i must apologise for being the only person on the planet that finds it hard.
 
tell you what when i do it i reckon it will only be worth 7b+ tho cos that will be the time i find it ok

[Bonjoy]

A Yorkshiregrit.com style page for individual probs, with grade votes would be good, but I think Bubba already has his work cut out as it is. There's nothing stopping people starting polls on the grade of problems, maybe a forum section dedicated to these is the way forward.

[Ru]

To be honest I agree, I find brad pit 7c and terrace bottom 7c+, but they are not my grades. Brad Pit got put up to 7c+ after a lot of people that had seen the proofs complained. Similarly, the Terrace only went down after complaints from others. These two problems have ocillated more in grade than any other. BP has been up and down about 10 times now. I personally don't mind which grades they are finally given, there's still time to change them. Start a voting thread or summat, then everyone's happy.

[Bonjoy]

Maybe there should be a 'What grade do you think this is' section, where people writing new guide books can get a wide variety of opinions rather than just what they and a few of their mates think.

 I guess the down side of this, is that for harder problems the valid opinions of people who have done the problems in questions (or at the very least, have tried it with a half chance of doing it some time in the next decade) are diluted by the opinions of the large majority who haven't done them (and may never have been on them) but fancy giving there two penneth anyway. Heated canvussing by either side of the debate ensues and the whole thing ends up like an election campain. I'm not sure if the end result is any more meaningful than asking your mates. Ho hum, we'll see.

[uptown]

Surely these grade debates are only coming about 'cos people are getting stronger with their left heels and respective body tension.
Trying the pit, the storm and the terrace all have positive effects on each other.
I can see a day that 'dragons whiskers' will be graded 7c by locals.
Most of Sheff. must have massive left cheeks by now!

[uptown]

Maybe there should be a 'What grade do you think this is' section, where people writing new guide books can get a wide variety of opinions rather than just what they and a few of their mates think.

Agreed - A la YG!
My sticking point is I can climb well unless the ability to jump 'miles' is a pre-requisite, so prob's like deliverance are best left ungraded. :wink:

[cofe]

dragon whiskers eh? the time is nigh...

[Bonjoy]

Some might say the race is on...