the shizzle > diet, training and injuries

Elbow osteoarthritis

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harrison:
I'm 35, and in the last month or two was diagnosed with elbow osteoarthritis on both sides.

The orthopaedic specialist advised me to avoid loading them significantly (eg climbing), and to take up swimming.
He made it pretty clear I should want them to last another 30 years before replacements should even be a consideration (they're not good - limited to lifting 2-3kg, often need revisions, don't last as long as knee/hip replacements).
From that obviously my main concern is not trashing them early, and I assumed climbing was totally off the cards.

I went swimming - definitely not as good as a dyno - but I noticed you still put some force through your elbows.
And a lot of the advice is keep using the joint, and strengthen it.
So I wonder if there is room for some easy bumbling.

I'm interested if anyone has elbow arthritis themselves or knows anyone who does.
It would be really useful to hear their experiences.
I expect most people who have it will be older, but it would good to know about how it progressed or the effect of climbing on it.

My understanding is you really want to avoid compressive forces, and particularly high impact compressive forces.
I'm thinking I could shuffle up amazon crack without much elbow exertion.

I have to add the diagnosis only started because I went and saw Paul Houghoughi, and I'd massively recommend him to anyone. I had issues with a finger for 3-4 years and in less than 20 minutes he'd identified a clear issue, and within a few weeks it was improving. Sadly not good news about the elbows, but if it wasn't for him I'd probably still be doing tendinitis rehab and wondering why they weren't feeling better. I saw two other physios in the year before seeing him.

I have to sort out a few more hospital appointments etc, and after that I'm sure I'll seek his opinion on the above, but no doctor can say what it'll be like in 5 or 10 years, so if anyone has been managing it for that long, it would be great to get their perspective.

Thanks!

Fiend:
I don't have any knowledge / experience / etc, apart from "climb slabs". But just want to express sympathies for what sounds like a very shitty issue, even by the already shitty standards of climbers' elbows, and best of luck with it.

Aussiegav:
I have quite significant osteoarthritis in my right elbow. Diagnosed about 4 months ago. I had post on here somewhere.
I have lost significant range of movement. 90degrees flexion and around 150 extension.
I’ve had a CT & X-ray. I’m having an operation in late January to clear out my elbow and remove some of the bone formations.
I’ve been climbing as per usual. Just can’t do certain positions now. Such as mantles and deep locks.

webbo:
I broke a bone in my elbow joint in 1981 doing the classic putting a hand down to break your fall on landing. Since then I have never been able to straight it fully, I had it cleaned out about 10 years ago as it was clicking and locking at times, the surgeon removed various float bodies.
He causally mentioned post op that I shouldn’t lift anything heavier than a bag of shopping.
So I just carried on as normal😏
Currently it is clicking very loud at times and it does lock but in general I can still climb. My wife keeps telling me to get it looked at. However it’s probably third on the list behind my shoulder and my arthritic wrists.
Given your age you have my sympathy.

sheavi:
I work as a physio and have OA in my hip.  From what we know of OA and exercise, it can be protective and reduce/limit progression on the condition.  In terms of climbing I would be guided by your symptoms. Don't just stop climbing!  Start off steadily and see how your symptoms respond.  There is no one size fits all.  Initially I would refrain from steep stuff, hanging from locked out elbows and hard mantles etc. 
Although the below link is for OA knee it offers some excellent advice that could be transferred to your elbows and climbing.

https://www.howardluksmd.com/walk-exercise-run-knee-arthritis/

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