UKBouldering.com

New 9A on the blocs (Read 33945 times)

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4399
  • Karma: +341/-1
  • Distorting facts posted on instagram
    • On Steep Ground
New 9A on the blocs
November 13, 2023, 10:58:14 am
https://www.grimper.com/news-charles-albert-libere-9a-bloc-saleve

Briefly, Charles Albert has done the FA of l’Ombre du Voyageur (The Traveler's Shadow) --- an old Elie Chevieux project in Salève, between Geneva and Annecy. Charles thinks it is by far the hardest thing he has done, but realise that is is probably quite a bit easier with kneepads and shoes admitting heel hooks. It is also a very long boulder, and might be better served with a route- or traverse-grade. Nevertheless, Charles gave it 9A as he would be surprised if anyone will find this to be 8C+ or easier.

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4981
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#1 Re: New 9A on the blocs
November 13, 2023, 11:05:43 am
Big grades for bad beta. aka - not wearing shoes

Fultonius

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4533
  • Karma: +155/-3
  • Was strong but crap, now weaker but better.
    • Photos
#2 Re: New 9A on the blocs
November 13, 2023, 11:09:44 am
Right, let's crowdfund Barrows to go out all rubbered up and get it downgraded   :lol: Seems prime for a Barrows Kneebarring extravaganza.

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4399
  • Karma: +341/-1
  • Distorting facts posted on instagram
    • On Steep Ground
#3 Re: New 9A on the blocs
November 13, 2023, 11:10:59 am
Albert thinks it is harder than 9a for himself, but maybe only 9a with shoes and pads. If I understand correctly.

I should probably have translated the name to The Wanderer and his Shadow as the name almost surely refers to Nietzsche's concept of Wandering vs Travelling. My bad.

Fiend

Online
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13740
  • Karma: +696/-68
  • Whut
#4 Re: New 9A on the blocs
November 13, 2023, 11:14:27 am
Another classic from Francharles Albertson  :2thumbsup:

JamieG

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1352
  • Karma: +87/-0
#5 Re: New 9A on the blocs
November 13, 2023, 11:22:05 am
Another classic from Francharles Albertson  :2thumbsup:

That is a horrendous pun Fiend!  ;D Good work!

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2887
  • Karma: +138/-3
#6 Re: New 9A on the blocs
November 13, 2023, 11:48:46 am

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29623
  • Karma: +644/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#7 Re: New 9A on the blocs
November 13, 2023, 12:02:27 pm
https://www.grimper.com/news-charles-albert-libere-9a-bloc-saleve

My French isn't that hot, is
Quote
Charles Albert à la conquête de l’absurde

a play on Terray's Conquistadors of the Useless?

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4399
  • Karma: +341/-1
  • Distorting facts posted on instagram
    • On Steep Ground
#8 Re: New 9A on the blocs
November 13, 2023, 12:15:17 pm
https://www.grimper.com/news-charles-albert-libere-9a-bloc-saleve

My French isn't that hot, is
Quote
Charles Albert à la conquête de l’absurde

a play on Terray's Conquistadors of the Useless?

Almost surely. Il y a d'autres Annapurna dans la vie des hommes.

Wellsy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1612
  • Karma: +137/-11
#9 Re: New 9A on the blocs
November 13, 2023, 12:38:35 pm
Vid of a long link on it here

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CsWcuwBgFwg/?igshid=cTN1bmV5enZzMTdh

Are those toe-locks?

The problem does not look hugely inspiring but very impressive climbing nontheless

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4399
  • Karma: +341/-1
  • Distorting facts posted on instagram
    • On Steep Ground
#10 Re: New 9A on the blocs
November 13, 2023, 02:40:07 pm
Looks great on Arthur's photos. Hopefully he filmed it as well.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 10004
  • Karma: +579/-10
#11 Re: New 9A on the blocs
November 13, 2023, 04:16:10 pm
That looks pretty amazing to me. It's not a worldline but the movement and use of the human body to climb is exceptional and properly innovative.  Proof that you can do weird and unique things in climbing that don't fit well in the standard boxes and also be genuinely interesting and boundary pushing.

yetix

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 669
  • Karma: +35/-0
#12 Re: New 9A on the blocs
November 13, 2023, 04:21:33 pm
Looks amazing to me, but I love 3d limestone roofs.

He's been trying another of his projects at isatis a little as well I believe (the one from his real rock where he does the first move (and the hardest move he's ever done) at the end of the film) so perhaps we will see more hard stuff from Charles soon.

https://www.over-caffeinated sugary drink company.com/int-en/episodes/reel-rock-s8-e2 28m44s for the bloc I mean

Edit... Can't put the drinks company name but Google real rock Charles Albert and go to 28m44s

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2887
  • Karma: +138/-3
#13 Re: New 9A on the blocs
November 13, 2023, 09:13:49 pm
That whole video is great. Fascinating portrait of him. And bloody hell those problems look hard! He makes Off the Wagon Low look piss.

Andy F

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2002
  • Karma: +134/-13
  • Ex-ex-climber
#14 Re: New 9A on the blocs
November 13, 2023, 09:30:50 pm
If he's not done it clipping a hanging knotted rope does it count as an ascent? ;)

JackMcKechnie

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 3
  • Karma: +1/-0
#15 Re: New 9A on the blocs
November 13, 2023, 09:32:27 pm
Probably the only time I'll ever add a 9A boulder to a crag I moderate on UKC.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/le_saleve-8647/lombre_du_voyageur-710908

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5975
  • Karma: +249/-5
#16 Re: New 9A on the blocs
November 13, 2023, 09:50:17 pm
Thanks yetix, had forgotten how good that vid is

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29623
  • Karma: +644/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#17 Re: New 9A on the blocs
November 13, 2023, 10:16:23 pm
Probably the only time I'll ever add a 9A boulder to a crag I moderate on UKC.

Embarrassingly, in spite of driving past dozens of times on the way to and from the airport, I've never stopped, usually because I'm with non-climbers more psyched on snow. Looks really good.

JackMcKechnie

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 3
  • Karma: +1/-0
#18 Re: New 9A on the blocs
November 13, 2023, 10:29:32 pm
Probably the only time I'll ever add a 9A boulder to a crag I moderate on UKC.

Embarrassingly, in spite of driving past dozens of times on the way to and from the airport, I've never stopped, usually because I'm with non-climbers more psyched on snow. Looks really good.
It's a great crag. Easy access from Geneva by public transport and loads of areas to go at.

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3089
  • Karma: +356/-2
#19 Re: New 9A on the blocs
November 14, 2023, 10:20:41 am
That whole video is great. Fascinating portrait of him. And bloody hell those problems look hard! He makes Off the Wagon Low look piss.

His movement style is fascinating and there is a lot to learn from it. I need to work on my flexibility! It's interesting to think how rock climbing could look if it developed from shoeless playing on boulders instead of hearty Victorians stomping up hills in big boots. I hope his beta for L’Ombre du Voyageur isn't too broken by rubber wearers.

The hyper-romanticism of the portrayal of cave living, so typical of Reel Rock, made me want to vomit. Maintaining your shampoo-advert hair whilst living in a smokey cave?!  The whole notion of off-grid living in a developed 21st century country is such bollocks: try doing the same in a country without functioning police and health services and let's see how long you last. It's good a society can accommodate the Charles Alberts but this dishonesty just encourages small state fantasists.

(and whilst I'm having a go at RR, have you seen Flex? Impressive ascents blah blah blah, but if you're struggling with insomnia just give it a watch.)

Wellsy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1612
  • Karma: +137/-11
#20 Re: New 9A on the blocs
November 14, 2023, 10:43:16 am
It's definitely fake hyper romanticism but I do like the idea of Charles Albert living in a cave, eating conkers, climbing 8C+s all day

That vid is very cool. Its not often you see someone trying a move where they zoom in and you're like "that isn't a hold... it just isn't"

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29623
  • Karma: +644/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#21 Re: New 9A on the blocs
November 14, 2023, 10:48:30 am
Wonder how he travels between Font and Saleve?

Teaboy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1208
  • Karma: +73/-2
#22 Re: New 9A on the blocs
November 14, 2023, 10:51:00 am
Yes, his ability to emerge from under a rock each morning with a pristine, brilliant white shirt and clean shiny hair is almost as impressive as his climbing.

stone

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 971
  • Karma: +57/-5
#23 Re: New 9A on the blocs
November 14, 2023, 11:34:52 am
The whole notion of off-grid living in a developed 21st century country is such bollocks: try doing the same in a country without functioning police and health services and let's see how long you last. It's good a society can accommodate the Charles Alberts but this dishonesty just encourages small state fantasists.

I really liked the video.

I presumed his hair was self-cleansing, (perhaps like my car is).

I totally agree that France is admirable for having such a clean (nuclear) electricity grid so it's much better to be on-grid especially there.

I am a fan of rejecting consumerism though. Buying loads of clutter etc isn't a prerequisite for having a decent health care system or police etc.

Teaboy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1208
  • Karma: +73/-2
#24 Re: New 9A on the blocs
November 14, 2023, 11:38:17 am
I don’t think it’s the notion of reduced consumerism, simple life etc. more that he obviously was not living in that cave!

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal