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First British Woman to Climb 7c+ (Read 972 times)

remus

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First British Woman to Climb 7c+
November 06, 2023, 06:46:39 am
I need to pick the collective UKB brain. I was cleaning up the climbing-history.org entry for Let the Tribe Increase and noticed both Ruth Jenkins and Rachel Farmer are down as having climbed it and being the first British woman to have climbed 7c+, which obviously can't be true.

Anyone know who was first? And if they've both climbed it? And, for a bonus point, the date of the ascent(s)?

haydn jones

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#1 Re: First British Woman to Climb 7c+
November 06, 2023, 08:17:36 am
i thought rooster booster was the first 7c+, or maybe it was first under18 7c+ for women... im sure zippy told me that at one point. i might be completely mis remembering though.

grimer

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#2 Re: First British Woman to Climb 7c+
November 06, 2023, 09:07:26 am
I would have thought Rooster Booster too but maybe Fliss Butler?

Stabbsy

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#3 Re: First British Woman to Climb 7c+
November 06, 2023, 12:31:17 pm
My OTE collection only goes back to 1994 with a few odds and ends older than that, so available info is scarce! However, in Rock Stars (Heinz Zak coffee table book), Rachel Farmer's ascents of Let The Tribe Increase, 0% de Matiere Gras and Invitation au Voyage (all 7c+) are dated 1992 (along with her ascent of Raindogs).

Fliss Butler's entry in Rock Stars doesn't mention anything harder than 7b+, but they were onsights. Then there's an interview with Fliss Butler in an old OTE (August '93) that mentions her hardest sport routes as Privilege du Serpent and Mirage (no mention of Rooster Booster), unfortunately without dates.

remus

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#4 Re: First British Woman to Climb 7c+
November 06, 2023, 05:25:27 pm
Good research, thanks Stabbsy. Looks like Rachel is the current earliest confirmed ascent of a 7c+ with her 1992 ascents.

On a related note, there's this OTE cover which I'd assume was around the time she did Raindogs https://www.instagram.com/p/BdVUh_rneR_/ Not quite clear what issue number it is, but my earliest copy is May 1997 issue 67, so assuming 12 issues a year and going back 5 years gets you to to issue 7, and given the pic has a 3 in it I reckon that's got to be issue 3. Anyone got a copy lying around?

T_B

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#5 Re: First British Woman to Climb 7c+
November 06, 2023, 05:34:51 pm
Itís not issue 3 itís 32 and Iím sure itís Ď91. Malc is 18 in The Young Ones article. Rachel Farmer did Raindogs in Ď90.

Stabbsy

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#6 Re: First British Woman to Climb 7c+
November 06, 2023, 06:29:13 pm
The Fliss Butler interview was OTE 37 and that was Aug 1993, so OTE 32 would have been Sept/Oct 1992 (OTE was 6 issues a year at that point, I think). Iíve got it upstairs - probably the first climbing mag I ever bought - so Iíll check once the kids are in bed.

I did look at it as part of my research this morning as I thought Rachel Farmer was one of the ďYoung OnesĒ but must have misremembered. It was the episode that reported her ascent of Raindogs though, so Ď92 probably right unless Tom has some alternate knowledge!

 

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