places to visit > indoor walls
Cloned comp problems?
Dac:
I don’t think you could really expect to hold a fair competition using clones of the same problem in different venues; minor differences in hold position and angle would have too much of an effect, not to mention differences temperature and humidity.
As for cloning comp problems to give potential competition climbers more experience of the styles of problems they would encounter there is no reason it wouldn’t work. But I suspect the prohibitive cost of the holds and requirement for a venue to have a wall of the correct angle that they are willing to strip of all other problems and set aside makes it unlikely to happen.
SA Chris:
"comp walls" seem to be a thing in some bouldering venues with a few choice problems on them but little else. Maybe impossible to make identical clones, but maybe make a reasonable replica of some from international comps?
jwi:
I cannot stress enough how expensive a world cup boulder is. Not only does it use super expensive holds it also takes up at least 5 x 3.5 m of wall surface where there cannot be any other problems.
remus:
--- Quote from: jwi on November 02, 2023, 10:38:15 pm ---I cannot stress enough how expensive a world cup boulder is. Not only does it use super expensive holds it also takes up at least 5 x 3.5 m of wall surface where there cannot be any other problems.
--- End quote ---
https://www.instagram.com/expensiveboulders/ makes some interesting browsing. I wouldn't be surprised if an average wc boulder clocked in at >£2k in holds alone (assuming you bought all the holds + volumes outright at RRP).
Also slightly relevant (and pretty cool!), there's a company who take 3d scans of all the wc boulders https://onlineobservation.com/en/competitions If you had the 3D scans I wonder whether you could make some backyard versions of the problems on homemade holds?
stone:
Might there be some economy of scale if routinely dozens of replicas were being set up?
Can't the holds be reused? Climbing walls need holds anyway don't they?
I suppose this needn't just be about world cup. It could be a way to have a lower-cost, mass-participation competition -perhaps international. If someone wiped the floor in that, then perhaps they might catch the eye for financial support to take part in the world cup?
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