[SA Chris]

definitely the best undeveloped uk area by the looks of it.

I thought that place was held by the Ben More giants.

[Tony]

The Leaping Stone is near kielder castle 2 miles off the forest drive…

Dan, what proportion of “The named Stones of Northumberland; being a list of huge stones, single and in groups, in situ and detached, to which local names have been given in the County” (pp531-536 https://archive.org/details/historyofberwick09berw/page/534/mode/1up ) would you say you’ve inspected?

[andy moles]

definitely the best undeveloped uk area by the looks of it.

I thought that place was held by the Ben More giants.

They don't look all that amazing from photos? Happy to be telt otherwise.

Gotta be more untouched giants in the woods in the area between there and Arrochar (given what's obvious and visible from the road). I remember seeing some impressive blocks somewhere beneath Beinn Ime or Ben Vane on a winter ramble years ago, but dismissing them as too far from the road (seems that's not a thing any more).

[Ged]

To throw another one in the mix, don't think anyone has mentioned the Wave boulder on Dartmoor. I've only dabbled so can't really comment but is it a contender?

I live 20 minutes away, and I can safely say that no, this is not in the same category as others mentioned here.

[Tom de Gay]

definitely the best undeveloped uk area by the looks of it.

I thought that place was held by the Ben More giants.

They don't look all that amazing from photos? Happy to be telt otherwise.

The arete/prow thing on the Ben More boulder is very impressive. Whether it climbs well is clearly going to be a matter of taste, judging from some of the preferences expressed on this thread!

[sherlock]

'Kabbah Boulder'? - never heard of it. Any more info/pics/links?

There's a pic on the cover of the Boulder Scotland guide.

Which one? 

Sorry Jamie, brain fog! Page 300

[SA Chris]

The arete/prow thing on the Ben More boulder is very impressive. Whether it climbs well is clearly going to be a matter of taste, judging from some of the preferences expressed on this thread!

Kind of OT, as they are not probably not part of this list and don't comply with the judgement criteria, my comment was that they could be the best undeveloped area. No idea how they climb, as they are mostly unclimbed IYSWIM.

As Andy said, there are some other giants out there, notably the ones mentioned, as well as the "Crianlarich Blocks", and some beasts in the glens around Ben Lawers I spotted out ski touring a few years back. Access is another story, but they are all (arguably) easier to access than a long drive and a ferry to the Outer Hebs. And the Glen that Maccy Dave was developing recently that I can't recall the name of.

[sherlock]

I remember richieb raving about the quality, always meant to have a loo. One for the e-bike?

If I lived in the NW i wouldn't bother driving to Clova just for the bouldering. There are some great probs, but it's pretty scattered, and development has been so sporadic that UKC and the old Scottish Climbs are the best source. It's a great place though, that Glen has given me so much (there next Sat for the half marathon, hopefully a wee session after).

Don't have a bike, we've always walked in which is about 40 mins to an hour depending on how lucky you get on choosing a line through the constantly changing peat bogs.
Thanks for Clova info, we've just driven up the East, pishing down, maybe have a look next time we're passing.

[chillax]

Another vote for the Spindle boulder at Fair Head (aka the Shelterstone) stuff up to 8B or so for the hard lads, one of the best 5's around (Brought To You By The Letter M) and a couple of nice 6's.

If it was RoI only, I'd probably say Big Jane in Glendalough. Every problems a classic except one, which would be a classic if you could get rid of the dabby block at the start

[SA Chris]

Thanks for Clova info, we've just driven up the East, pishing down, maybe have a look next time we're passing.

Yeah, been consistently bloody awful weather for about 3 weeks now. Shout next time you are near can show you some things.

[sherlock]

Is that the boulderfield under Creagan Tealasdale? Some friends have been there, having just stumbled across it, and said it's amazing. Is there much actually documented?

That's the one. Various stuff by various different parties, indeed it needs sorting out.

[JamieG]

'Kabbah Boulder'? - never heard of it. Any more info/pics/links?

There's a pic on the cover of the Boulder Scotland guide.

Which one? 

Sorry Jamie, brain fog! Page 300

No worries. I don’t have the book but my brother does. I’ll get him to send me a picture.

[sherlock]

[quote author=carlisle slapper link=topic=33772.msg683586#msg683586 date=169901302

Kabaah boulder is ebike for easy access for sure. i'd say its lack of development would discount it as there are alot of other potential best boulders that havent been realised yet. definitely the best undeveloped uk area by the looks of it. surprised to see it mentioned tbh thought it was ullapools best kept secret!

[/quote]
Aye Dan as you know the access isn't the only reason for it being undeveloped.
The glen has its own unfathomable micro- climate which means it can be thick mist and drizzle while it's cool & dry at the parking.
As for it being Ullapool's best kept secret, quite a few people have been there now,see Andy's post above for instance. I love it up there but it does entail considerable expense and time to get the most out of a visit. I suspect it would be cheaper ànd less time consuming for most folk to go to Font or Albarracin.
Anyway, miles OT now, so apologies!

[Paul B]

Seeing as NI is 1/4 of the UK I'd go for one of the Fairhead boulders. Boombastic or Eat It?

As someone who's met their tib & fib in a way I'd rather not repeat, I can't help but feel the majority of FH bouldering* is somewhat compromised by the landing. Also, I'm just a touch bitter that I was out-lanked for the FA of something on the Eat It boulder.

*this is now quite some time ago now so perhaps there's plenty of things that don't risk a one-day party trick of your right foot touching your right knee 

[Bonjoy]

That bit of the Works is still referred to with a shudder as Bennett's Corner.

[GazM]

'Kabbah Boulder'? - never heard of it. Any more info/pics/links?

There's a pic on the cover of the Boulder Scotland guide.

Which one? 

Sorry Jamie, brain fog! Page 300

Ah, I know the photo. Didn't know the name of the boulder though. Always wanted to go in there.

[petejh]

Seeing as NI is 1/4 of the UK I'd go for one of the Fairhead boulders. Boombastic or Eat It?

As someone who's met their tib & fib in a way I'd rather not repeat, I can't help but feel the majority of FH bouldering* is somewhat compromised by the landing. Also, I'm just a touch bitter that I was out-lanked for the FA of something on the Eat It boulder.

*this is now quite some time ago now so perhaps there's plenty of things that don't risk a one-day party trick of your right foot touching your right knee 

Fair point about the landings, there are some big holes to disappear down if you miss your mat! I couldn't commit to the top move of carbide for fear of the landing.

[36chambers]

So does anything actually top The Virgin or does the cliff win once again??

[turnipturned]

Nice Will Nice. The Leaping Stone is near kielder castle 2 miles off the forest drive. One day it might be roadside with permission but for now people need to park on the drive at the nearest carpark (or at the castle if have ebike) and walk the 2 miles in. with an ebike its trackside and a doddle.

Just be warned Dan’s ‘ah it will be 15min on a normal bike’ is more like 45mins of hell  though the rock and shapes are very good (albeit we didn’t climb because it was wet)

[Stewart]

Eagle Boulder at Dumby has to be up there. Amazing problems in the 6s, 7s, and 8s. Lifetime's worth of climbing.

This is the correct answer. 

[tc]

The Leaping Stone is magnificent. I also have a particular fondness for Boardman's Boulder but it just doesn't compare.

[chillax]

Seeing as NI is 1/4 of the UK I'd go for one of the Fairhead boulders. Boombastic or Eat It?

As someone who's met their tib & fib in a way I'd rather not repeat, I can't help but feel the majority of FH bouldering* is somewhat compromised by the landing. Also, I'm just a touch bitter that I was out-lanked for the FA of something on the Eat It boulder.

*this is now quite some time ago now so perhaps there's plenty of things that don't risk a one-day party trick of your right foot touching your right knee 

Fair point about the landings, there are some big holes to disappear down if you miss your mat! I couldn't commit to the top move of carbide for fear of the landing.

Still not exactly perfect flat landings, but a lot of the big classic problems have had landings vastly improved over the years. In ways that look very natural too. Was there a couple of months ago, and felt way less sketchy than when I did lots of bouldering there in '09/'10

[SA Chris]

Eagle Boulder at Dumby has to be up there. Amazing problems in the 6s, 7s, and 8s. Lifetime's worth of climbing.

                                      rock quality.  grade spread. Situation. Training potential. good lines.
Eagle Boulder                    2/5                 5/5                  1/5               4/5                   4/5

Fair?

[Stewart]

Not very fair Chris.  Rock quality is impeccable if you like basalt.  I much prefer it to the rhyolite of bowderstone. And no skin shredding issues. 

Situation.. 1/5? everyone knows dumby has problems with litter and broken glass.  But under the main crag,  with the sun setting on the clyde and views up to ben lomond, it can be a really beautiful spot. 

[SA Chris]

Agree to disagree. I really don't like the rock, often blocky holds, and close to frictionless. Great for training on (hence high rating) but otherwise I don't enjoy it.

Might be beautiful for that sunset hour or so each day when it's nearly too dark to see the post industrial wasteland, litter, and graffiti, but you have to admit it's not a patch on some UK high moorland and highland locations.