[sherlock]

                               
Leaping Stone                 

Where is?

Not sure but looking at photos on BM Flickr, it's maybe Kielder Forest/Border Reiver badlands?

[Will Hunt]

                               
Leaping Stone                 

Where is?

It's in the back of Kielder. An easy 5 hour ebike journey from the roadhead, plus a 3 hour approach through the pines. Only two topos were produced, lovingly CNC'd onto a pair of hardwood tablets which were distributed to Nicky and Aiden (they say hi) with strict instructions to burn after reading. This act of annihilation was committed by each as they bivouacked alone under the boulder, the flames casting shadows which danced across the rock, the smoke spilling upwards into the ink-black depths of the night, lost among an infinite archipelago of stars.

No idea why nobody else is out repeating these great lines 

[spidermonkey09]

With a bit of untranslated Spanish in there and the punctuation removed this could almost be from Blood Meridian.

[sirlockoff]

I've had a little think about the few places I have been, which is pretty small tbh (peak, st bees, southern sandstone, churnet valley, some limestone choss, bowderstone, some lake bouldering):


The block (the one that has velvet silence at black rocks) - just amazing piece of rock with crazy problems, and quite picturesque especially with a mist, also probably has the best boulder problem in my eyes in the UK).

[Bradders]

                               
Leaping Stone                 

Where is?

It's in the back of Kielder. An easy 5 hour ebike journey from the roadhead, plus a 3 hour approach through the pines. Only two topos were produced, lovingly CNC'd onto a pair of hardwood tablets which were distributed to Nicky and Aiden (they say hi) with strict instructions to burn after reading. This act of annihilation was committed by each as they bivouacked alone under the boulder, the flames casting shadows which danced across the rock, the smoke spilling upwards into the ink-black depths of the night, lost among an infinite archipelago of stars.

No idea why nobody else is out repeating these great lines 

You're not wrong

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/50489032552/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/50371830132/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/50175494748/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/51498264210/

[lukeyboy]

From a 'best' perspective, from those I've visited my vote would go to the Ship boulder.

However if I could have one in my garden then it would be the Bowderstone, it'd take a long time to run out of things to do (even if none of them are stellar lines / top quality) and you'd get very strong.

I also rate the Tetris boulder, which someone mentioned up thread, though can't really remember what else is on it.

To throw another one in the mix, don't think anyone has mentioned the Wave boulder on Dartmoor. I've only dabbled so can't really comment but is it a contender?

[bolehillbilly]

What about The House boulder at Bradley edge? Not everyone's cup of tea but I hear some people really dig it.

[Bradders]

Contenders so far then are:

- The Bowderstone (Borrowdale)
- The Ship (Torridon)
- The Virgin (Almscliff)
- Groove Armada (Lad Stones)
- Leaping Stone (Northumberland)
- Superbloc (Tintatel)
- Lower Caseg Boulder (North Wales)
- The Great Flake (Caley)
- Barry (Stoupe Brow)
- Spindle (Fairhead)
- Grand Hotel (Stanage)
- Northern Soul (Hepburn)
- The Calf (Ilkley)
- Langdale Boulder 1 (Lakes)
- Tetris Boulder (Roaches)
- The Prune (Yeadon)
- Wonderwall (Crafnant)
- Zoo York (Caley)
- Mallory (North Wales)
- Ruthven (Strathnairn)
- The Wave (Dartmoor)
- The House (Bradley Edge)

We're talking about a purely freestanding individual boulder, which rules out Zoo & Northern Soul as they're buttresses.

There then seems to be two camps; quality of individual problems and quantity of problems to do (across the grades). I think the best boulder should please both crowds, which rules out Grand Hotel, Spindle, Great Flake, and Mallory on absolute quantity, plus Ruthven, Wonderwall, The Prune, Lower Caseg, Tetris and The Calf as they don't have any straight up 8s despite lots in the 6s and 7s. I think Barry also loses out here as it doesn't really have anything in the lower grades at all.

You could probably rule out The Ship as well at this point, as it has a great big gap between 7C+ and 8B+.

That leaves The Bowder, Langdale, Virgin, The Wave, The House, Groove Armada and Superbloc.

Only two of those have anything in the high 8s, but I think you could make an argument that the best boulder doesn't necessarily have to have anything quite that hard.

Add in to the mix the situation of the boulder, the rock quality and quality of the lines.

I think good landings are a prerequisite, which rules out The Groove Armada block.

I think on the basis of rock quality and situation, versus the others that also means you have to rule out the Bowderstone. It's never not annoying having hordes of tourists walking up, which detracts from what is otherwise a lovely spot, and it keeps on breaking plus is often seeping. Plus, as has been made clear, it simply doesn't tick the box in terms of strong, clean lines. This rules out The House too.

I'd suggest the Superbloc has to meet a similar fate. The vast majority of the problems are link ups or traverses rather than clear lines and some of the rock is a bit sharp and miserable. The latter eliminates The Wave.

Which leaves Langdale, Leaping and Virgin.

In the absence of further details, I'll ignore Leaping for now.

Langdale is clearly a strong contender, but I think it simply doesn't have enough to go at. I think the best boulder should really be all things to all people, and the volume and variety of climbing on the Virgin is absolutely incredible. Highballs, lowballs, slabs, traverses, brilliant clean lines (I reckon The Fox is up there with Chiasmata and The Matterhorn for best lines at the Cliff), technical sloper slapping, blood curdling crimping, roofs, steep board style things, dynos, burly brutality. It really does have something for everyone across the grades, from 4 to unrepeated 8s. The rock quality is great, the view is beautiful.

Wonder how much those houses on Merrybank Lane go for 

[JamieG]

I'm genuinely surprised the Pebble at Stanage isn't getting more love. Great spread of problems across the grades (and even styles). High but not too high. Can climb on all sides, quick drying. Photogenic. Definitely a better all-round boulder than the Grand Hotel. Maybe familiarity breeds contempt.

[remus]

I'm genuinely surprised the Pebble at Stanage isn't getting more love. Great spread of problems across the grades (and even styles). High but not too high. Can climb on all sides, quick drying. Photogenic. Definitely a better all-round boulder than the Grand Hotel. Maybe familiarity breeds contempt.

If I was stuck on a desert island and all I had was The Pebble I'd stop climbing More seriously, it doesn't really have much quality above ~7A except Deliverance (lank reliant, luck based scrittle etc.)

[JamieG]

I'm genuinely surprised the Pebble at Stanage isn't getting more love. Great spread of problems across the grades (and even styles). High but not too high. Can climb on all sides, quick drying. Photogenic. Definitely a better all-round boulder than the Grand Hotel. Maybe familiarity breeds contempt.

If I was stuck on a desert island and all I had was The Pebble I'd stop climbing More seriously, it doesn't really have much quality above ~7A except Deliverance (lank reliant, luck based scrittle etc.)

Haha, maybe that says more about this forum than bouldering in general if quality above 7a is a requirement. Don't get me wrong, I don't think the pebble is the best boulder in the UK. I'm just surprised it is getting a touch overlooked.

Has Boardman's boulder at Carrock been mentioned?

[Thomnomnom]

Eagle Boulder at Dumby has to be up there. Amazing problems in the 6s, 7s, and 8s. Lifetime's worth of climbing.

[Ross Barker]

Ruthven, Wonderwall, The Prune, Lower Caseg, Tetris and The Calf as they don't have any straight up 8s despite lots in the 6s and 7s.

The sitters to Caseg Groove and Main Vein are 8A and 8A+. No high 8s but I don't think that'll ever be an issue for me! Plus, the rock is absolutely incredible, and the pleasant setting by the river is just splendid. Stick a can of pop in the water keep cool, to go with your sarnies later. Oh yes!

[Will Hunt]

                               
Leaping Stone                 

Where is?

It's in the back of Kielder. An easy 5 hour ebike journey from the roadhead, plus a 3 hour approach through the pines. Only two topos were produced, lovingly CNC'd onto a pair of hardwood tablets which were distributed to Nicky and Aiden (they say hi) with strict instructions to burn after reading. This act of annihilation was committed by each as they bivouacked alone under the boulder, the flames casting shadows which danced across the rock, the smoke spilling upwards into the ink-black depths of the night, lost among an infinite archipelago of stars.

No idea why nobody else is out repeating these great lines 

You're not wrong

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/50489032552/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/50371830132/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/50175494748/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/51498264210/

Now that last one catches my eye. The bab paraphernalia in the background indicates that it's accessible (unless Dan has a kid's chariot attachment for the ebike).

[sherlock]

The Kabbah boulder on Lewis.
Free standing, bigger than the Ship,all grades, good landings, great rock, hard projects.

[gardinrm]

'Kabbah Boulder'? - never heard of it. Any more info/pics/links?

[GazM]

Yeah, never heard of that one Sherlock. Any details?

[SA Chris]

Is it one of the "Uig Hills" boulders?

[sherlock]

'Kabbah Boulder'? - never heard of it. Any more info/pics/links?

There's a pic on the cover of the Boulder Scotland guide.
Gaz, thought you'd known about it for years?
Chris, spot on. Aye, there's gold in them thar hills. And while I remember is there any info on the John Peel boulder in Clova? I've only done trad there years ago and wondered if it was worth the tortuous trip from the NW for the bouldering?
I'll try and write up what's been done when I get a spare minute.Or someone gives me another lifetime.

[SA Chris]

I remember richieb raving about the quality, always meant to have a loo. One for the e-bike?

If I lived in the NW i wouldn't bother driving to Clova just for the bouldering. There are some great probs, but it's pretty scattered, and development has been so sporadic that UKC and the old Scottish Climbs are the best source. It's a great place though, that Glen has given me so much (there next Sat for the half marathon, hopefully a wee session after).

[JamieG]

'Kabbah Boulder'? - never heard of it. Any more info/pics/links?

There's a pic on the cover of the Boulder Scotland guide.

Which one? 

[JamieG]

Wow, some of these boulders on Lewis look awesome!

[andy moles]

Is that the boulderfield under Creagan Tealasdale? Some friends have been there, having just stumbled across it, and said it's amazing. Is there much actually documented?

[carlisle slapper]

Nice Will Nice. The Leaping Stone is near kielder castle 2 miles off the forest drive. One day it might be roadside with permission but for now people need to park on the drive at the nearest carpark (or at the castle if have ebike) and walk the 2 miles in. with an ebike its trackside and a doddle. They have been logging there until this year but i think they're finished for now, before Arwen there was a mooting of allowing parking up there at some point but the FC care 0% about climbers, (understandably as its only just one or two people doing it at the mo) even more so nowadays with the 300square miles of kerplunk they've now got after their battery farmed monoculture crop all got toppled because its all planted on peat bog. The last time we were there in a big group the warden walked over asking if we were placing any metal in the rocks, we answered no and he seemed very disappointed he couldn't DO us for anything, we then forced him into some amicable conversation. On the plus side it looked like they were replanting deciduous acid tolerant species up there. I've done a topo but was waiting on the FC one day getting back to me as it'd be a perfect venue for climbers to get permissive parking at oneday. i'll give it a few more months then whack it on UKC etc as technically there are no access issues on anything in kielder if you dont drive on their roads. It has really good problems 6B-8B so far and almost one of every grade, landings are all perfect mossy grass.

Kabaah boulder is ebike for easy access for sure. i'd say its lack of development would discount it as there are alot of other potential best boulders that havent been realised yet. definitely the best undeveloped uk area by the looks of it. surprised to see it mentioned tbh thought it was ullapools best kept secret!

Katrine boulder is the massive one on north west side of the loch. Also much easier on ebike. bit of a theme developing up north... Its on UKC as such: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/katrine_boulder-16109/

[Will Hunt]

Sounds mint