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Best individual boulder in the UK?? (Read 9823 times)

Fiend

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#100 Re: Best individual boulder in the UK??
November 08, 2023, 04:22:34 pm
Could scrape 2/5 for the novelty and variety of the situation??


SA Chris

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#101 Re: Best individual boulder in the UK??
November 08, 2023, 04:55:41 pm
Hmmm. White stuff is a novelty, as well as sun being out to enjoy a sunset. 1.5 for the days when there is both..

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#102 Re: Best individual boulder in the UK??
November 09, 2023, 11:04:46 am
Great replies. Special shout out to carlisle slapper who read the question properly and showed his equations  :smartass:

Some thoughts from my personal experience / perception:

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Grand Hotel Boulder at stanage gotta be up there surely?
Not loads else but what else do you need!?
I need more than two classic problems, one of which has a shit start and the other is too hard.

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Maybe The Calf @ Ilkley? I've only been once for a brief fiddle, but the big steep face looked amazing for highball frighteners.
Not bad except too much board-monkey nonsense on the main face and chipped buckets on the back. It has presence at least.

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Another vote for Langdale (the top boulder). Lovely rock, lovely views, and a cracking collection of problems:
Stefan Grosman, The Overhang, (and their respective sitters), The Crack, The Pocket, V6 Traverse, even the stuff over the dry stone wall is worthwhile.
Good call, that's more like it.

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If The Virgin was on a desert island that would certainly be an improvement.
Yeah I only put it in to appease the Yorkshire clique.

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Goodness me no! Wonderwall is horrendously sharp, utterly grim. And the landings are dreadful. Yes it's a good boulder, but miles from being the best.
Nah Duma was right to bring this one in, fairly good grade spread, masses of problems, nice view, the rock is no worse than grit, and most of the problems can be made okay with a few pads especially if you move the entire patio from beneath My Private Idaho and repurpose it under Riley's Arete.

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Good god the fucking bowderstone?! You may as well nominate the left hand upstairs boulder at TCA.

If grimers suggestion of having them all in one place was true the bowderstone would be the one at the back that everyone took a shit under.
:clap2: I would definitely rather have the Depot 30 board on the side of a freestanding bit of scaffolding rather than the Bowderstone. Again only put in to appease the neanderthal taste-deprived board-monkey goal-climbing yobs.

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If I was stuck on a desert island and all I had was The Pebble I'd stop climbing :lol: More seriously, it doesn't really have much quality above ~7A except Deliverance (lank reliant, luck based scrittle etc.)
Not having much quality above ~7A is a selling point for me  :P

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Eagle Boulder at Dumby has to be up there. Amazing problems in the 6s, 7s, and 8s. Lifetime's worth of climbing.
Ah yes, I had a bit of a mind blank when considering Dumby (for all of 5 seconds) and could only remember Pongo and BNI, and forgot about The Eagle which I should have name checked, also it's got great problems in the 5s too. I will take Chris's point and agree with splitting the location score at 1.5 / 5 tho.



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#103 Re: Best individual boulder in the UK??
November 09, 2023, 11:24:42 am
Lower caseg boulder
Crag las
Sheep pen boulder
Bowderstone is also great (though the front face it pretty uninspiring)

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#104 Re: Best individual boulder in the UK??
November 09, 2023, 12:24:59 pm
Agree to disagree. I really don't like the rock, often blocky holds, and close to frictionless. Great for training on (hence high rating) but otherwise I don't enjoy it.

Might be beautiful for that sunset hour or so each day when it's nearly too dark to see the post industrial wasteland, litter, and graffiti, but you have to admit it's not a patch on some UK high moorland and highland locations.

When was the last time you were there Chris? It's generally a lot cleaner, friendlier and more graffiti free than the past. Also, depends what you consider the credentials of "location", if you give it its due for being able to be accessed by public transport from a major city, with it's own microclimate with surprisingly consistent conditions, minimal seepage, good scene.

Not universally 5* but 1.5 is missing a lot of the locational benefits.

Wrt to rock quality, just have to agree to disagree! You might not get on with it, but that's not 'cause its bad! It's just got a unique frictional directionality to it.

And you can't just lank most things  ;)

SA Chris

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#105 Re: Best individual boulder in the UK??
November 09, 2023, 01:21:44 pm
"location" does not mean convenience access to a major Urban Conurbation as far as I know, in that case Agassiz Rock and Adel Crag would be up for consideration. It refers to view and outlook.

I've not been in a while admittedly, I've chosen Cunningar Loop and TCA when I've been in town.

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#106 Re: Best individual boulder in the UK??
November 09, 2023, 03:27:59 pm
Which Block at Loch Katrine? I thought there were a few.
Assume it's the one at Glengyle on the north side of Loch Katrine. Can't find many details other than a mention in the 2010 Stone Country blog and a link to the SMC page which matches the details on UKC.
Randomly I cycled past this today and scoped out the approach. Undecided about riding back with a pad so would be good to find out more.

The Glen Gyle boulder documented in that 2010 Stone Country blog post is not the one Dan is talking about. That one is actually in Glen Gyle. Dan's is on the opposite side of the loch from Stronachlachar.

 

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