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Chimes Alternative - UKC upgrade? (Read 5120 times)

Paul B

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#50 Re: Chimes Alternative - UKC upgrade?
September 09, 2023, 05:50:08 pm
...only to continually fall off the same move to the crimp high up repeatedly. I found it a total heartbreaker.

I'm sure you've had all sorts of beta but have you tried the Dunning push down on the jug?

Which things have been downgraded which you think ought not to have been, Paul? And is this a UKC/NR/both downgrade?

Throw some out for consideration? I'm struggling to think of many downgrades as a whole (beyond the settling of new routes).

Will Hunt

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#51 Re: Chimes Alternative - UKC upgrade?
September 09, 2023, 06:14:14 pm
Sorry, I meant upgrades.

Paul B

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#52 Re: Chimes Alternative - UKC upgrade?
September 09, 2023, 06:22:17 pm
Sorry, I meant upgrades.

I'm not sure (in the context of this thread) that there are any? But, IMO if GA were 8b then that would throw a few other things off (including relative to other crags like WCJ and Cheedale Cornice which have a good smattering of similar 8a+s) and the lesser travelled routes in the same grade would be ALL over the place. Anyway, grades etc. :worms:


Will Hunt

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#53 Re: Chimes Alternative - UKC upgrade?
September 09, 2023, 06:38:35 pm
Both Nat and my hardest RPs are now retrospective upgrades without hold loss which seems a bit ridiculous.

I somehow read this and thought you were talking about a more chronic issue than 2 routes. My mistake.

Anyway, what were the two routes?

NaoB

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#54 Re: Chimes Alternative - UKC upgrade?
September 09, 2023, 06:56:16 pm
...only to continually fall off the same move to the crimp high up repeatedly. I found it a total heartbreaker.

I'm sure you've had all sorts of beta but have you tried the Dunning push down on the jug?


I can't exactly remember as it was a few years ago now. Will definitely be hunting for all the tricks when I get back on it! It sounds like there's a kneebar now that I wasn't using too. Maybe it'll feel easy now!!

Paul B

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#55 Re: Chimes Alternative - UKC upgrade?
September 09, 2023, 07:00:20 pm
Knees have a lot to answer for (and no, before anyone starts, that's not a serious comment).

Andy F

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#56 Re: Chimes Alternative - UKC upgrade?
September 09, 2023, 07:20:33 pm
I'd like to say I don't care, but I clearly do... i reckon I'd be more motivated to get back on GA if I was going to be rewarded with an 8b tick!!

I find this truly baffling; if those moves up and exiting the groove aren't motivation enough then it's time to take up road biking!

I think it's bang on at the grade and I'm short enough that I can't rely on the knee beyond the two crimps. There's plenty of range at Kilnsey at 8a+. Have a look at Vanilla Path and They Brush Me!


I hear you Paul - I'm well aware that it's a great route, regardless of the grade. But I did climb that excellent groove a lot, only to continually fall off the same move to the crimp high up repeatedly. I found it a total heartbreaker, all the more so because other people were declaring how easy they found it! It made me feel marginally better to hear a few peeps on here also found GA a tough proposition. So we will all continue to have our different opinions, none of which are exclusively 'correct'. And I can believe it is either a really, really hard 8a+, or a soft 8b and you couldn't floss between the two.

And, yes, one day I will get back on it...

I could run up the groove on GA, rest completely on the jug then fall off the next move. The way I did it was not resting, a quick shake and power on through (using the Dunning semi-mantle).

NaoB

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#57 Re: Chimes Alternative - UKC upgrade?
September 09, 2023, 08:41:06 pm
I'd like to say I don't care, but I clearly do... i reckon I'd be more motivated to get back on GA if I was going to be rewarded with an 8b tick!!

I find this truly baffling; if those moves up and exiting the groove aren't motivation enough then it's time to take up road biking!

I think it's bang on at the grade and I'm short enough that I can't rely on the knee beyond the two crimps. There's plenty of range at Kilnsey at 8a+. Have a look at Vanilla Path and They Brush Me!


I hear you Paul - I'm well aware that it's a great route, regardless of the grade. But I did climb that excellent groove a lot, only to continually fall off the same move to the crimp high up repeatedly. I found it a total heartbreaker, all the more so because other people were declaring how easy they found it! It made me feel marginally better to hear a few peeps on here also found GA a tough proposition. So we will all continue to have our different opinions, none of which are exclusively 'correct'. And I can believe it is either a really, really hard 8a+, or a soft 8b and you couldn't floss between the two.

And, yes, one day I will get back on it...

I could run up the groove on GA, rest completely on the jug then fall off the next move. The way I did it was not resting, a quick shake and power on through (using the Dunning semi-mantle).

Skills. Good to know Andy, thanks, will bear that in mind on the rematch.

spidermonkey09

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#58 Re: Chimes Alternative - UKC upgrade?
September 09, 2023, 10:29:26 pm
Sorry, I meant upgrades.

 But, IMO if GA were 8b then that would throw a few other things off (including relative to other crags like Cheedale Cornice


Obvious example is RnP, which has far better claim to being 8b than GA for mine...! Absolutely, fully, nails.

kc

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#59 Re: Chimes Alternative - UKC upgrade?
September 09, 2023, 11:50:42 pm

Paul B

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#60 Re: Chimes Alternative - UKC upgrade?
September 10, 2023, 12:13:54 am
Obvious example is RnP, which has far better claim to being 8b than GA for mine...! Absolutely, fully, nails.

#toohardforCaff?

TBH I thought this was fair at 8a+ just quite morpho through that overlap (and I lacked the toe skills to entertain the Bonjoy beta). The first time I made it through that move a miscommunication meant my belayer (wife) heard take and ran backwards pulling me off after I resisted briefly. Thankfully it went next RP and marital harmony was restored.

stone

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#61 Re: Chimes Alternative - UKC upgrade?
September 10, 2023, 07:01:59 am
Meanwhile back to the original topic 60 miles away https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/raven_tor_millers_dale-146/chimes_alternative-195341
Fixed
Bravo!
(not to mention everything you've done to access the best of Peak lime for everyone).

Kingy

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#62 Re: Chimes Alternative - UKC upgrade?
September 10, 2023, 08:09:20 am
Nice one, cheers Kristian.  :great:

 

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