[jwi]

Thinking about a trip to Mallorca. My better half is a bit fed up with redpointing and would like to go somewhere were she can try some onsights. Probably looking at routes up to 7b/b+ or so, the more sustained the better. How is Mallorca for routes like that?

Me I'm not fussed, I can do whatever, but if someone has some recommendations in the 7c - 8b range I'm all ears.

[Paul B]

I was shown some cool photos of a large cave with what I was told was a relatively large walk in recently. I don't have any further details.

Did I imagine some access issues in Mallorca of late (permits and things required)?

[jwi]

Did I imagine some access issues in Mallorca of late (permits and things required)?

Thanks for the heads up. I let Mrs jwi figure that one out.

[Coops_13]

I went here which was a great crag: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/caimari-1746

I did Colgau 7b, which was really good and there's a big cave with routes up to v hard in it

[Ru]

I like Mallorca for climbing - easy flights, small island, lots of variety, easy to find cheap ish accommodation. But...

Access can be odd. Firstly many crags are on private land so some of the best crags aren't in the guides. Some of the crags that are in the guides get banned and unbanned randomly.

Secondly, a couple of years ago they brought in a permit system for the Sierra Tramuntana national park crags (many of the non-dws crags are are in the national park). For a while the park rangers were patrolling and ejecting people from crags if they didn't have permits. However the permits proved almost impossible to get - you would apply and hear nothing back. The application system was also weirdly specific and seemed designed for people guiding groups - i.e. questions about which days you were going to which crags and with how many people, although it was all in Catalan. People started going with proof that they had applied, then just telling the rangers that they had applied, and now I get the impression that things are back to how they were before (without the rangers patrolling).

UKC thread about it here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/destinations/mallorca_climbing_permits-709915?v=1#x9049833

If I were going back (I will at some point in the near future) I'd put some feelers out first. You could ask on Rockfax/UKC - there is a rockfax guide so in theory they keep up to date on access and I know Alan has some contacts out there. Secondly stick some posts on facebook and ask the locals what's happening. There are two faceboook groups:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/escaladamallorca

which is a public group and

https://www.facebook.com/groups/escaladaenmallorca which is a private group but accepts newcomers without much fuss.

This article is from a few weeks ago and mentions a new improved automatic permit system:

https://www.majorcadailybulletin.com/news/local/2021/02/10/78981/mallorca-environment-serra-tramuntana-1.html

[Ged]

Thinking about a trip to Mallorca. My better half is a bit fed up with redpointing and would like to go somewhere were she can try some onsights. Probably looking at routes up to 7b/b+ or so, the more sustained the better. How is Mallorca for routes like that?

Me I'm not fussed, I can do whatever, but if someone has some recommendations in the 7c - 8b range I'm all ears.

I really like mallorca for the variety, but aside from fraguel and cove del diablo non of it felt properly "world class". Nice place though, and plenty of good crags for mileage.

[Hydraulic Man]

Some amazing routes on the right hand side of Alaro..Joker Face is outstanding. Never had any issue with the access up there but there is a definite problem with some of the bolting that I had the misfortune of witnessing first hand a couple of years ago.

One of the best crags is in no guidebook but the locals will usually keep you right.

Great Island.

[SA Chris]

Thoughts on holiday in Mallorca in late October, weather wise? Won't climb every day, and limited to bouldering with son due to lack of belayers (wife and daughter on swimming training camp), don't mind a day or two of rain..

[remus]

Thoughts on holiday in Mallorca in late October, weather wise? Won't climb every day, and limited to bouldering with son due to lack of belayers (wife and daughter on swimming training camp), don't mind a day or two of rain..

Prime DWS season...

Cala barques is pretty friendly, lots of other accessible options around too.

[Paul B]

Porto Colom is perhaps even friendlier in the scenario mentioned.

[Ballsofcottonwool]

We did Ibiza middle of the tatie holidays last year. Low 20s, mostly sunny, no rain, it was very humid can’t imagine climbing, maybe Mallorca has a different climate? Everyone was in the pool in swimsuits when we arrived, when we went home a week later there were loads of folk  turning up to the hotel pool in wetsuits!

[SA Chris]

Prime DWS season...

Cala barques is pretty friendly, lots of other accessible options around too.

Yeah I'd be keen to do a bit, but unless it's just above sea level, or no higher than bouldering height, not sure I could motivate him. His current obsession with shark movies probably won't help either

[Paul B]

At PC you can simply traverse just above the sea if you wish. Access is via steps to rock just above sea level.

[Nike Air]

Prime DWS season...

Cala barques is pretty friendly, lots of other accessible options around too.

Yeah I'd be keen to do a bit, but unless it's just above sea level, or no higher than bouldering height, not sure I could motivate him. His current obsession with shark movies probably won't help either

I totally get that, I spent a lot of time thinking about sharks doing the DWS

[SA Chris]

I get daft thoughts surfing in Aberdeen. Surfing when I was in Cape Town did my brain in. Never bothered me when I lived there, even in the Transkei.

[SA Chris]

Best guide for bouldering - is there one? Mate has "Psicobloc Mallorca" guide, which looks to have some bouldering in it, but not sure if there is anything else.

[SA Chris]

Seems there isn't one. Any tips for good bouldering spots? We are staying near Alcudia but will be going down to Sant Jordi a few times. There are some little topos on an Instagram page, but not a lot of info on getting to the boulders themselves, and seeing the bouldering areas are usually named after a nearby town, that could mean a lot of fruitless wandering.

Ideally spots with a bit to go at in the easy - high 6 range.

Well take sport rack and DWS stuff, but limited by lack of belayers; Kyle can lead easy climbs but not learned to clean yet (unless there is something easy to clip into) and he's not ready to belay me.

[sherlock]

Chris, not sure which guide your mate has but I've got a fairly recent Boulder En Espana 'greatest hits' type book.
It's got about half a dozen pages on Mallorca, some DWS but some child friendly. No topos but GPS directions etc etc. perhaps use in conjunction with 27 Crags?
Can email pages to you if this is any use? In Spanish.

[SA Chris]

Sounds ideal, will message you.

[sherlock]

YHM

[SA Chris]

Got it, perfect, much appreciated.