...only to continually fall off the same move to the crimp high up repeatedly. I found it a total heartbreaker.
Which things have been downgraded which you think ought not to have been, Paul? And is this a UKC/NR/both downgrade?
Sorry, I meant upgrades.
Both Nat and my hardest RPs are now retrospective upgrades without hold loss which seems a bit ridiculous.
Quote from: NaoB on September 09, 2023, 12:22:18 pm...only to continually fall off the same move to the crimp high up repeatedly. I found it a total heartbreaker.I'm sure you've had all sorts of beta but have you tried the Dunning push down on the jug?
Quote from: Paul B on September 09, 2023, 11:38:10 amQuote from: NaoB on September 08, 2023, 08:08:00 amI'd like to say I don't care, but I clearly do... i reckon I'd be more motivated to get back on GA if I was going to be rewarded with an 8b tick!!I find this truly baffling; if those moves up and exiting the groove aren't motivation enough then it's time to take up road biking!I think it's bang on at the grade and I'm short enough that I can't rely on the knee beyond the two crimps. There's plenty of range at Kilnsey at 8a+. Have a look at Vanilla Path and They Brush Me!I hear you Paul - I'm well aware that it's a great route, regardless of the grade. But I did climb that excellent groove a lot, only to continually fall off the same move to the crimp high up repeatedly. I found it a total heartbreaker, all the more so because other people were declaring how easy they found it! It made me feel marginally better to hear a few peeps on here also found GA a tough proposition. So we will all continue to have our different opinions, none of which are exclusively 'correct'. And I can believe it is either a really, really hard 8a+, or a soft 8b and you couldn't floss between the two.And, yes, one day I will get back on it...
Quote from: NaoB on September 08, 2023, 08:08:00 amI'd like to say I don't care, but I clearly do... i reckon I'd be more motivated to get back on GA if I was going to be rewarded with an 8b tick!!I find this truly baffling; if those moves up and exiting the groove aren't motivation enough then it's time to take up road biking!I think it's bang on at the grade and I'm short enough that I can't rely on the knee beyond the two crimps. There's plenty of range at Kilnsey at 8a+. Have a look at Vanilla Path and They Brush Me!
I'd like to say I don't care, but I clearly do... i reckon I'd be more motivated to get back on GA if I was going to be rewarded with an 8b tick!!
Quote from: NaoB on September 09, 2023, 12:22:18 pmQuote from: Paul B on September 09, 2023, 11:38:10 amQuote from: NaoB on September 08, 2023, 08:08:00 amI'd like to say I don't care, but I clearly do... i reckon I'd be more motivated to get back on GA if I was going to be rewarded with an 8b tick!!I find this truly baffling; if those moves up and exiting the groove aren't motivation enough then it's time to take up road biking!I think it's bang on at the grade and I'm short enough that I can't rely on the knee beyond the two crimps. There's plenty of range at Kilnsey at 8a+. Have a look at Vanilla Path and They Brush Me!I hear you Paul - I'm well aware that it's a great route, regardless of the grade. But I did climb that excellent groove a lot, only to continually fall off the same move to the crimp high up repeatedly. I found it a total heartbreaker, all the more so because other people were declaring how easy they found it! It made me feel marginally better to hear a few peeps on here also found GA a tough proposition. So we will all continue to have our different opinions, none of which are exclusively 'correct'. And I can believe it is either a really, really hard 8a+, or a soft 8b and you couldn't floss between the two.And, yes, one day I will get back on it...I could run up the groove on GA, rest completely on the jug then fall off the next move. The way I did it was not resting, a quick shake and power on through (using the Dunning semi-mantle).
Quote from: Will Hunt on September 09, 2023, 06:14:14 pmSorry, I meant upgrades. But, IMO if GA were 8b then that would throw a few other things off (including relative to other crags like Cheedale Cornice
Obvious example is RnP, which has far better claim to being 8b than GA for mine...! Absolutely, fully, nails.
Meanwhile back to the original topic 60 miles away https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/raven_tor_millers_dale-146/chimes_alternative-195341Fixed