[highrepute]

Looking for recommendations for somewhere to go, ideally not too far from Sheffield, where one can boulder, beach, camp and it's good for kids around 5. Good sandy beach is probably higher priority than good bouldering.

Does such a place exist in the north of England/Wales?

[Bonjoy]

I've not bouldered here but I've heard it fits the bill from Mike Adams - https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/newgale_beach-25929/

[Bonjoy]

Slightly nearer Gower would also probably suit. Certainly has fantastic beaches and beach based bouldering.

[dunnyg]

Silverdale?
Don't know about the beaches though.

[dunnyg]

North york moors? Plenty of beaches on the east coast.

Northumberland?
Amazing beaches, heard there is some half decent bouldering.

I don't have any specific beta though.

[Catcheemonkey]

St. Bees?

[jakaitch]

Second vote for Newagale!

[gme]

North york moors? Plenty of beaches on the east coast.

Northumberland?
Amazing beaches, heard there is some half decent bouldering.

I don't have any specific beta though.

Northumberland does it perfectly. Add better weather than west coast, castles and other stuff for kids, most of bouldering is totally chilled with one pad on your own.
Nice pubs, and if weather is shit Edinburgh is 55 mins on train, Newcastle 25.

[sxrxg]

Not North England/Wales I can however recommend Hopeman in Scotland for this. Campsite right on the beach with a lovely beach bar/restaurant, can walk to Cummingston to the West for some amazing sandstone bouldering and exploring the caves, to the East is the lovely sandy beach of Cove Bay and Primrose Bay bouldering. Added advantage of minimal midges being on the East Coast as well.

[sxrxg]

Sandyhills bay in Dumfries Southern Scotland may also work and is considerably closer to Sheffield. Camping right by the a sandy beach and bouldering in the caves at the back including some harder things.

[SA Chris]

Porth Ysgo + Aberdaron & Porth Neigwl Beaches? I think there are a few campsites in and about the area.

[SamT]

Not a sandy beach.. more like big pebbles, but Cae Du campsite could fit the bill.  Not sure how good the actual bouldering is.

[Paul B]

Silverdale?
Don't know about the beaches though.

The beaches are pretty clayey. I was fooled by an Instagram post.

[SA Chris]

Not North England/Wales I can however recommend Hopeman in Scotland for this. Campsite right on the beach with a lovely beach bar/restaurant, can walk to Cummingston to the West for some amazing sandstone bouldering and exploring the caves, to the East is the lovely sandy beach of Cove Bay and Primrose Bay bouldering. Added advantage of minimal midges being on the East Coast as well.

Great place. Also in the right conditions you can body board on the beach at Primrose Bay. The kids loved it.

[sxrxg]

Been thinking about this again as have similar requirements with a young family... Ogmore South Wales looks like it could be a possibility, seems to be camping at Three Golden Cups in Southerndown and then half a mile walk to the beach and bouldering.

[SA Chris]

Rest Bay could be good for that too, but usually a bit busier, but closer to the trappings of Porthcawl. Not as much bouldering, but some fun microroutes.

[Duma]

Been thinking about this again as have similar requirements with a young family... Ogmore South Wales looks like it could be a possibility, seems to be camping at Three Golden Cups in Southerndown and then half a mile walk to the beach and bouldering.

3 cups is a decent pub, no idea about the campsite. There's a closer beach at witches point too, some bouldering I believe and also some excellent (if often greasy) sport climbing

[Jerry Morefat]

As a S.Wales local, I'm not sure I'd recommend Ogmore or rest bay personally. I don't think the trench at Ogmore is super child friendly, although the other stuff probably is. The bouldering at rest bay is pretty limited and pretty easy.

Although I do like sutherndown beach and rest bay (and have taken my 5 year old daughter to both fairly frequently from Cardiff) I think the beaches on the Gower and in Pembroke are nicer. I'd recommend newgale personally, as already mentioned in the thread.

[205Chris]

Another vote for Northumberland here;

Bamburgh beach is stunning. 15 minutes to Bowden, 20 minutes to Kyloe.

North Wales would be our second option - Benllech beach, Llandudno etc.

I had one session at Newgale last year and left disappointed. I'm sure it's great, but it's tidal and very conditions dependent (your mileage may vary etc.). It's also 5 and a half hours from Sheffield. Although the ice cream place up the road is one of the best I've ever had.

[SA Chris]

"Near Sheffield" is probably limited to NYM, Northumberland and North / Mid Wales? Depends on age of kids and tolerance to travel obviously.

[T_B]

We’ve been to NYM twice. Based ourselves at the YHA in Osmotherley. Dunno about campsites. Not too far a drive to Saltburn (as seaside towns go I thought it was really quite nice) or for fossil beaches further south (exciting descent to Port Mulgrave). Worth knowing there’s a decent little wall in Darlington (Ibex) if it rains. Only did a bit of climbing but Scugdale is 10 mins walk and a lovely spot to hang out. There are likely better bouldering venues.

[lagerstarfish]

for a beach with bouldering, steady walk in - Rumbling Kern

https://northumberlandclimbing.co.uk/oldguide/index.php-v=4&s=2&id=96.html

the other channel has a list of problems

[Johnny Brown]

Lleyn. Northumberland has better bouldering but the sea is fucking freezing and we always end up in big coats while my Dad sends pictures of them hiding in the shade in Lleyn because the flags are cracking. Lots of variety in beaches and aspect, much closer than South Wales.

[gme]

for a beach with bouldering, steady walk in - Rumbling Kern

https://northumberlandclimbing.co.uk/oldguide/index.php-v=4&s=2&id=96.html

the other channel has a list of problems

That place should not be in a bouldering guide or be classed as climbing, its shit and i mean utter shite.

It is however an amazing place to visit, jump off cliffs, swim through arches etc. (coasteering i think its called, or that what the local companies who charge a fortune for it do).

[lagerstarfish]

for a beach with bouldering, steady walk in - Rumbling Kern

https://northumberlandclimbing.co.uk/oldguide/index.php-v=4&s=2&id=96.html

the other channel has a list of problems

That place should not be in a bouldering guide or be classed as climbing, its shit and i mean utter shite.

It is however an amazing place to visit, jump off cliffs, swim through arches etc. (coasteering i think its called, or that what the local companies who charge a fortune for it do).

I must like utter shite more than you 

it has more climbable rock than most of the sandy beaches I have been to in the UK

admittedly, not much to do above 4+ unless you enjoy doing linkups and eliminates in between playing with the kids

[Ross Barker]

Carreg yr Imbill might fit the bill. Criccieth and Black Rock Sands not too far a drive away and might fit the bill, but the climbing looks not as good. Porth Howel looks promising as well, though more pebbly than sandy.

Not been to any of these places myself but Imbill and Howel do indeed look quite good as long as you get the tide right.

[steveri]

No way does this fit the bill, but found some nice problems at Fistral Beach Newquay, sandy/pebbly landings for the matless. For the benefit of future search results like.

[highrepute]

Thanks for all the replies.

I guess my dream is somewhere to stay that is within walking distance of a good sandy beach and some bouldering.

We've had a few trips to Cornwall where this requirement was satisfied...Lizard, Prussia Cove. None of this was camping mind. Godrevy probably be good too.

And I was wondering if there was an equivalent closer to home.

South Wales looks good, I've heard it described as Cornwall without the crowds.

Lleyn a good shout. I'd forgotten that I've been swimming off the beach right next to ysgo. Is any of the other bouldering on or near a sandy beach?

In my mind NYM and Northumberland don't quite fit the bill because you'd have to drive been the beach and climbing.

The Scottish stuff looks great if painfully far away for the Aberdeen stuff. Dumfries might be doable, need to look into that more. We went to Arran last year and that almost ticks the box with the bonus of some proper mountains thrown in too, but it did involve driving between beach, scramble and bouldering.

Lakes... I don't think there's a beach near st bees? But maybe one of the Lakes could be substituted....can't think of anywhere off me head.

[cheque]

I don't think there's a beach near st bees?

It’s right next to it but around the corner (to the south) from the climbing so not obvious when there. Pebbles rather than sand though.

[T_B]

The main St Bees beach is sand when the tide is out. There’s actually some bouldering 10 mins rock hop along from the beach but it’s not much. The main bouldering areas being much further around. Fleswick bay is a pebble beach with bouldering right off it. I used to go there as a kid (from Whitehaven marra)!

[SA Chris]

Lleyn a good shout. I'd forgotten that I've been swimming off the beach right next to ysgo. Is any of the other bouldering on or near a sandy beach?

Only bits I've been to near the bouldering, the beach is more gravel than pebble. I've not been to much of it mind. Some ace beaches nearby though.

Re Dumfries and Galloway, Thirlstane is also family friendly at the right tide, and sandy, but the sand is quite coarse and very shelly.

[sdm]

The last few metres of the approach down to Ysgo are not toddler friendly either.

Lleyn has some great beaches for toddlers to spend a day playing on. And it has some great bouldering. But I'm not sure it has a beach that does both.

[Andy W]

It’s a long way but Gwenver would suit, beach, bouldering, cliff, surf, pub all walking distance, albeit a bit of a climb from beach to campsite.

[tomtom]

The last few metres of the approach down to Ysgo are not toddler friendly either.

Lleyn has some great beaches for toddlers to spend a day playing on. And it has some great bouldering. But I'm not sure it has a beach that does both.

The Ysgo beach is just west of the climbing and has a footpath and steps (I think) down to the cove. Lovely spot and you can scramble around a the wee headland to the climbing easily enough.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/MLBCeoGvv5fK13de8?g_st=ic

[petejh]

Perhaps the ultimate in these Isles is west Donegal, Carrickfin for e.g.. Plenty of other beach bouldering spots around there too. Similar journey as driving to N.W Scotland but with a pricey ferry.

Although doesn't fulfil:

ideally not too far from Sheffield, where one can boulder, beach, camp and it's good for kids around 5. Good sandy beach is probably higher priority than good bouldering.
...
in the north of England/Wales?

[chillax]

Seconding Pete, if willing to take a ferry, Donegal is a good bet. Carrickfinn, Muckross and Doagh Strand would fit the bill. Weather can be hit or miss, but no more so than Scotland. The islands are pretty nice too. Gola island in particular has a beautiful camping spot and mega trad, but no bouldering unfortunatey

Camping by the beach visible here

[SA Chris]

That looks great, is it granite?

[petejh]

Yes granite. Donegal has a mixture of granite, hard sandstone, quartzite and limestone, even some quartzite sport-climbing up to 8c!

[SA Chris]

Plus some decent surf..

[Johnny Brown]

Erraid on Mull has similar scenes less far away.

The beach at Ysgo is one of the area’s hidden gems but most climbers don’t know it exists as a rocky point separates. Or Alwm at the other end if you don’t like company. There is a bit of bouldering at low tide at Porth Oer, a great family beach. Robins has done some bits at either end of Hell’s mouth. For trad the Warren beach just north of Abersoch buts up against the quarries.

[fatneck]

There is also limited bouldering on the beach next to the climbing at Porth Ysgo (note to self to return to old projects which probably still remain...)!

FWIW I think the Llyn is your best bet. The campsite at Tudweiliog (Towyn Beaches) is good and the beaches are some of the best on the Llyn. And whilst I don't think you'd find camping with a 30 minute walk to climbing that would occupy you for more than a couple of sessions, if you're prepared to drive 20 minutes from a campsite to climb, you've got loads of options and a variety of rock types!

As mentioned the stuff at the end of Hell's Mouth is really good and you've also got Porth Ty Mawr and Porth Dinllaen as well as all the other crags mentioned.

Every visit I have there lately reveals new stuff, on a beach (or very near a beach) without a huge walk in. Feel free to DM me for more info...

[mark20]

Just back from a nice week on the South coast of Devon. Not exactly close to Sheffiled, but closer than Cornwall, and I get the impression it's a bit quieter. There's a campsite at Beesands, and Beesands beach is big, mostly pebbly, but some sandy bits around Torcross, which is a really nice spot and has a perfect boulder above a sandy landing. Apparently there is some bouldering at the other end of Beesands beach but I didn't check it out as apparently the landings are less good.
It's a long-ish walk, or short drive to Mattiscombe Sands which is a lovely sandy beach with low boulders at the back - some short steep problems and loads for kids to mess about on. Good swimming.
Further round, Pigs Nose Beach has a great steep boulder, and some easier stuff to mess about on.
The coast path is pleasant, seal spotting, fishing, and a few hidden sandy coves at low tide.

[teestub]

Just back from a nice week on the South coast of Devon. Not exactly close to Sheffiled, but closer than Cornwall, and I get the impression it's a bit quieter. There's a campsite at Beesands, and Beesands beach is big, mostly pebbly, but some sandy bits around Torcross, which is a really nice spot and has a perfect boulder above a sandy landing. Apparently there is some bouldering at the other end of Beesands beach but I didn't check it out as apparently the landings are less good.
It's a long-ish walk, or short drive to Mattiscombe Sands which is a lovely sandy beach with low boulders at the back - some short steep problems and loads for kids to mess about on. Good swimming.
Further round, Pigs Nose Beach has a great steep boulder, and some easier stuff to mess about on.
The coast path is pleasant, seal spotting, fishing, and a few hidden sandy coves at low tide.

Enjoyed all those venues, great project at Pig's Nose low start to Wild Boar, felt pretty hard.

For anyone venturing down that way, the Pig's Nose Inn in East Prawle is a must https://www.pigsnoseinn.co.uk/ such a great pub

[nik at work]

One of my all time favourite pubs.