[MischaHY]

I'm still battling away on my quest for a shoe which stays comfy enough for big day (15-30 pitches) with harder climbing at onsight limit or second go (for me this is 7b/c ish). For granite/sandstone I've vaguely settled on Instinct Lace as being a good balance of sensitivity/edging capability and reasonable crack performance but for vert/slabby lime it is too soft.

I really don't get on well with shoes like TC Pro because of the lack of sensitivity. I've got a wide forefoot and narrow heel.
Shoes I've tried so far:

TC Pro: Amazing comfort but too clunky and insensitive to work well. (for me!)
Scarpa Generator: Comfy but stretched like mad and then fell apart. Also fairly clunky.
Instinct Lace: Comfy enough and good on high friction rock types but lacking on lime, especially vert and low friction.
Instinct VS: Similar to the lace but bag out really quickly and lose the performance.
Miura VS: Amazing performance but unbearable after 10 pitches or so. Also somewhat narrow.

I'm considering trying the following:

Vapour Lace: Seems to be similar fit to the Instinct Lace but stiffer. Could be a winner although it's apparently not great in thin cracks due to the size of the toebox. Maybe not such a big issue on lime.

Katana Lace: Apparently an absolute weapon but potentially less comfy and narrower.

Happy to take suggestions on what people find works for them! Cheers.

[Paul B]

Scarpa VSR or an older pair of Whites (of the original vintage). Usually these wouldn't be new, perhaps even resoled once.

I think you've got to accept that beyond a certain number of pitches (and depending on rock type) your feet aren't going to be entirely happy.

I also avoid Anasazi VCS on anything with crack pitches as the buckles always seemed to get mashed into the top of my foot. In the USA I opted for Moccs a lot of the time but the grades were a lot steadier (apparently).

[abarro81]

I'd be interested in what people rate even for single pitch vert lime with little edges! Modern shoes seem to be mostly quite soft (at least for anyone >70kg) so I'm still working through my stock of the old red Instinct Lace on these kind of routes (the newer black instinct laces don't fit my toes quite as well unfortunately; and I hate anasazis)

[Fultonius]

TC Pro: Amazing comfort but too clunky and insensitive to work well. (for me!)

V1 or V2?

I'm just back from the dolomites, onsights up to 7b+ / 650m and I didn't resort to my Instinct VSRs, TC Pros all the way. I did fail to onsight one 7b technical thin bit, but that's more a lack of my footwork skills than the shoes fault!

In the past, I found the V1 TC Pros to be very insensitive and it took a good week or two of big granite routes to start to get any level of control or feeling, but with the V2s I found them much better out the box and really been pretty happy with the amount of feeling, they also get quite good at smearing once bedded in.

I don't fit any other La Sportiva shoes, firmly an instinct vs shaped foot...

[jwi]

Brand new Miura lace-ups, half a size bigger than normal.

I'd be interested in what people rate even for single pitch vert lime with little edges!

Miura lace-ups, half a size smaller than normal.

[HaeMeS]

Katana velcro, half a size bigger than normal.

I'd be interested in what people rate even for single pitch vert lime with little edges!

Brand new Katana velcro, half a size smaller than normal.

[mrjonathanr]

Katana velcro, half a size bigger than normal.

I'd be interested in what people rate even for single pitch vert lime with little edges!

Brand new Katana velcro, half a size smaller than normal.

Previous iteration (blue/yellow 2nd gen) of Magos.

[mrjonathanr]

To OP, I really struggle to find trad shoes because I need a broad asymmetric fit. Instinct VS would be ideal but it’s not asymmetric enough so I’ve gone with Evolv Shaman lace. They’ve got a rubber midsole that the velcros don’t have and though they’re not exactly stiff, they’re pretty supportive.

[spidermonkey09]

I'd be interested in what people rate even for single pitch vert lime with little edges! Modern shoes seem to be mostly quite soft (at least for anyone >70kg) so I'm still working through my stock of the old red Instinct Lace on these kind of routes (the newer black instinct laces don't fit my toes quite as well unfortunately; and I hate anasazis)

You must be running out of routes to do if you're resorting to vert surely!

I think you've got to accept that beyond a certain number of pitches (and depending on rock type) your feet aren't going to be entirely happy.

This is surely the bottom line. I don't think it would matter what I wore for 30 pitches, my feet would still be hurting.

[El Mocho]

This is probably not going to be any help, and is in fact more of a brag (but I'm older and weaker than I was, new kids are all so much better so cut me some slack).

In the late '90s I got a pair of 5.10 newtons. They felt shit. Really insensitive. I had some bigger trips coming up so I tried to wear them in before, soloing around on grit. They gradually felt better so wore them on harder stuff - Exorcist at Almscliff, Raindogs, Tonight at Noon, 3 Blind Mice... they were pretty good. I freed El Cap in a day in them (and as we were both free climbing with no haul bag we didn't carry trainers so also walked down off El Cap in them), bunch of other big US routes. Then went to Patagonia and wore them on multiple 24hr long climbs there (on the way up and down as again we didn't take trainers/mountain boots on many of the climbs) so they were being worn non stop for 24 hrs. A few years later and they were still going good. Eventually I changed sponsor before they had worn out.

The closest I have felt boot wise since is the Maestro, unfortunately I've not yet worn them in to the same degree. In general I don't like stiffer boots and these are the stiffest things I've ever got on with and only after months of use to get to a point I like them. I find stiff boots uncomfy. I also find if I size up too much they also are less comfy, maybe partly through loosing support.

I've been wearing rock shoes since I was 10 years old and now have fairly strong feet so don't really feel any benefit in super stiff boots and the lack of sensitivity is shit.

[knollchri]

Following this discussion closely as my stock of Blancos is slowly going towards zero.

For single-pitch stuff, I was quite happy with the 2nd version of the Magos. Could never really bear to wear them for multipitches though, and the new iteration is too soft anyway.

[MischaHY]

I'd be interested in what people rate even for single pitch vert lime with little edges! Modern shoes seem to be mostly quite soft (at least for anyone >70kg) so I'm still working through my stock of the old red Instinct Lace on these kind of routes (the newer black instinct laces don't fit my toes quite as well unfortunately; and I hate anasazis)

For single pitch Miura VS all the way in terms of performance (81kg). Not the comfiest but incredible edging whilst staying sensitive enough. My issue with them is that even if sized up they are still too downturned to work well in cracks. Can anyone compare how the fit is with Katana lace?

[MischaHY]

TC Pro: Amazing comfort but too clunky and insensitive to work well. (for me!)

V1 or V2?

I'm just back from the dolomites, onsights up to 7b+ / 650m and I didn't resort to my Instinct VSRs, TC Pros all the way. I did fail to onsight one 7b technical thin bit, but that's more a lack of my footwork skills than the shoes fault!

In the past, I found the V1 TC Pros to be very insensitive and it took a good week or two of big granite routes to start to get any level of control or feeling, but with the V2s I found them much better out the box and really been pretty happy with the amount of feeling, they also get quite good at smearing once bedded in.

I don't fit any other La Sportiva shoes, firmly an instinct vs shaped foot...

V2.

I know it sounds ridiculous because people climb really hard in them but for whatever reason I just didn't get on with the TC. Really annoying because I did an 1100m wall in them (amongst others), wore them the entire time and was totally comfy - but the lack of sensitivity really put me off and I ended up selling them.

[Duncan campbell]

Otakis??

[cheque]

Following this discussion closely as my stock of Blancos is slowly going towards zero.

Unparallel Up Lace are based on Blancos but with a few tweaks that stop them needing such an aggressive heel.

They’re what I wear for limestone multipitch and I have the same wide forefoot/ narrow heel combo as Mischa.

[sirlockoff]

I bought unparallel uprise pro for longer routes, happy with that, worth a shot

[Fultonius]

TC Pro: Amazing comfort but too clunky and insensitive to work well. (for me!)

Shame. I used to think the same about V1 - how the fuck could anyway ever climb anything remotely hard in them...  but I did get to, blindly, trust them and rarely had a foot slip. The V2 seemed to me to just have that bit more sensitivity out the box. They do soften up after a few 1000m of granite and I now need to wear them with a thin pair of socks. You just got to belieeeeeve man! 

The only downside for me is when it gets more than 5-10 degrees overhanging they just don't two-in enough and therefore you just have to work harder, but as far as smalle edge and smearing performance, I've barely had a foot slip in them and if you knew me, you'd know that's a miracle!  (footwork isn't my strongest suit)

[jwi]

[...]

I think you've got to accept that beyond a certain number of pitches (and depending on rock type) your feet aren't going to be entirely happy.

This is surely the bottom line. I don't think it would matter what I wore for 30 pitches, my feet would still be hurting.

Quite. For me, the pain is getting worse with age as well. That's why I tend to veto anything longer than 10 pitches.

[thomas røllins]

Following this discussion closely as my stock of Blancos is slowly going towards zero.

Unparallel Up Lace are based on Blancos but with a few tweaks that stop them needing such an aggressive heel.

I have one pair of tight-fitting (i.e. single pitch use) US size 8.5 Blancos still in use (and one final fresh pair still in their original box). I bought Unparalleled Up Laces in US size 9.0 up to test for multi-pitch routes. I concur that they have a very similar fit and feel to Blancos, but I will go for US size 8.5 when I buy another pair as the current pair are slightly too imprecise. In other words, don't assume Blanco and UP Lace sizing is the same.

[shark]

As mentioned the Blancos are a good option but for me Sportiva Katakis are the best all round multi pitch route I’ve ever worn. Now discontinued but several places still selling them off. Down to £59 at Outside but only small sizes left

[knollchri]

Following this discussion closely as my stock of Blancos is slowly going towards zero.

Unparallel Up Lace are based on Blancos but with a few tweaks that stop them needing such an aggressive heel.

[...]I concur that they have a very similar fit and feel to Blancos, but I will go for US size 8.5 when I buy another pair as the current pair are slightly too imprecise. In other words, don't assume Blanco and UP Lace sizing is the same.

I really appreciate your insights. Great to hear about your first-hand experience, especially since they are unavailable in local shops. Your comments are reassuring though, and I might just give them a try.

[moose]

As mentioned the Blancos are a good option but for me Sportiva Katakis are the best all round multi pitch route I’ve ever worn. Now discontinued but several places still selling them off. Down to £59 at Outside but only small sizes left

Katakis strike me as a good pick. I took a 3 year hiatus from routes and in January went sport climbing in Spain and the only shoes I could wear for any time were the Katakis I took as a secondary option.  For me, (and possibly irrespective of what Sportiva say), they are flatter, slightly stiffer, and less aggressive than the various Miuras and Katanas and far friendlier for extended use. Still precise though - you can focus the big toe on small footholds and smear well, but maybe can't quite claw back on steep ground like when wearing Solutions etc. The heel is that "S-heel" nonsense though, which I find bulbous and insensitive.

[Duncan campbell]

Otakis are my go to shoe. Have found them to be good for very edging and have done big sport stuff in taghia up to rivières pourpres which is 7b ish.

I think they are the dogs bollocks for most things tbh. (Shark please don’t start wearing them as you seem to have a curse on you regarding discontinuing shoes)

[SamT]

I've been on a quest for this kind of thing, (though more for multipitch stuff in the lakes/wales).  I'm sure various pairs of re-soled red instict laces are still up to it, but been hoping to find a new alternative.

Got a pair of Scarpa Maestro, and initially thought they felt like a pair of clogs, but I've hardly worn them, (been a bit of a shit summer for me in terms of climbing).

[submaximal gains]

I got Scarpa Boostics one size up from my normal size for long routes and found they were really good for 8-10 pitch routes on limestone and granite, I've not done anything longer in them yet. Before them I'd have used scarpa VSRs but thought they were too soft to spend all day in.

Both Peter Croft and Josh Wharton like the Boostics for long routes https://mojagear.com/whats-in-your-pack-peter-croft/

They are also vegan in case that's a deciding factor for anyone