[crzylgs]

I predominantly boulder outdoors (not highballs!) but do some occasional sport and have got a week in South Wales coming up where I'd like to mostly sport climb with my partner and thought it was about time to update my helmet. It's quite tricky for me to get to any gyms/shops that have much of a selection to try on so I'll probably have to take a punt on the fitting and order online.

I'm learning towards the Petzl Meteor. This seems to get well reviewed and will serve as a decent all round helmet and in my opinion beats out the Black Diamond Vision on 'looks / style' points - which is obviously super important when choosing a helmet 

The Black Diamond Vision was another I've seen that seems to fill a very similar use case and price point to the Meteor.

Was half tempted by the Petzl Sirocco - but honestly shaving off those ~50g traded vs less durability doesn't seem worth for my infrequent and far from cutting edge use.


Anyone with any strong views or personal recommendations between those I've picked out or want to throw a new contender into the mix?

[Paul B]

There's another thread on here somewhere where one of the primary concerns seemed to be how you'd transport the helmet to the crag and how easily some of the lightweight offerings could be damaged in the bottom of a rucksack for instance.

[slab_happy]

FWIW, I have the original version of the Sirocco (the hideous orange one which someone dubbed Ronald McPenis), which I bought in 2013, and I haven't managed to damage it in my rucksack yet.

I do vaguely try to wedge it into the top of the rucksack rather than the bottom, but that's as much delicacy as it gets.

It looks like it's made of polystyrene and will crumble if you look at it funny, but that is not the case.

... and now I've Googled how often you need to replace your helmet and oh thank god I can finally change to something less hideous. But I will very likely just go for the current Sirocco, because the old one has served me well.

[Paul B]

Black Diamond did some research that might mean you can keep Ronald a bit longer if you were that way inclined (no significant loss of strength for helmets stored correctly?).

[Duncan Disorderly]

I can't recomend the Black Diamond Vapour enough!

I abstained from wearing a lid for years until seeing someone lob off a sport route I'd just done, catch a foot, flip and smack her head - the quantity of blood pissing from her head was pretty eye opening (she was fine after a trip to A&E btw)...

I found everything either looked like a penis (Sirocco) , bulbous buoy (Vision) or sat too far off the top of my head (all the rest) that I knew I'd just hit it continually... Tried every reasonably priced one in every shop I went in for ages until I finally bit the bullet and tried the Vapour (the expensive option!)... Was a revelation, felt like a cap. Now feels wierd to climb routes without it!

They've just released a new (even more expensive) version so you might find a deal on the previous model (the one I have)...

Looking now it seems that Absolute Snow have em for £79 if S/M fits yer head and you like red...

https://www.absolute-snow.co.uk/black-diamond-vapor-alpine-rock-climbing-helmet?v=253129&fc=GBP/?keyword=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwiIOmBhDjARIsAP6YhSUi7JkyiKoNSu8U3LOwG2SIZTAwDJdVu6jAuIhKx2zgP2_30nX5g_UaAqCsEALw_wcB

[James Malloch]

I use the black Sirocco. Don’t notice it in and it looks alright.

Never had issues with it in my bag but also put it in the bag last so its always on top.

Get something you like or you wont use it.

https://www.alpinetrek.co.uk/petzl-sirocco-helmet-climbing-helmet/?aid=b8e36a7faf3429a98495956b14cc718e&pid=10004&gclid=Cj0KCQjwiIOmBhDjARIsAP6YhSWYTLnmQerUNgU3ZWNVCubKAjOJlZUwS2fnW0NpbEFALNxhYRbjDAIaAoI1EALw_wcB&wt_mc=uk.pla.google_uk.18012299660..

[crzylgs]

There's another thread on here somewhere where one of the primary concerns seemed to be how you'd transport the helmet to the crag and how easily some of the lightweight offerings could be damaged in the bottom of a rucksack for instance.

This is nicely sums up my concerns.

FWIW, I have the original version of the Sirocco (the hideous orange one which someone dubbed Ronald McPenis), which I bought in 2013, and I haven't managed to damage it in my rucksack yet.

That's good to know! However, doesn't help me make my mind up as I'm even more torn now!

I can't recomend the Black Diamond Vapour enough!

Looking now it seems that Absolute Snow have em for £79 if S/M fits yer head and you like red...

https://www.absolute-snow.co.uk/black-diamond-vapor-alpine-rock-climbing-helmet?v=253129&fc=GBP/?keyword=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwiIOmBhDjARIsAP6YhSUi7JkyiKoNSu8U3LOwG2SIZTAwDJdVu6jAuIhKx2zgP2_30nX5g_UaAqCsEALw_wcB

I had seen the Vapour top a few test list but at its full price was a tad out of my budget. That's a much more tempting price. On the link provided by Duncan there are 4 colour options:

Red / Ice Blue - these both seem to have a thin shell/coating over the foam looking bit.

Octane / Black - these appear to only have the shell on top, then no coating on sides?

But they are the same price and same model?

[Duncan Disorderly]

The ones with polystyreen sides are the latest models and are megabucks...

[SamT]

I've had a vapour for some years now, and the top is looking quite dented now.  Only ever put it in the top of the rucksack, but it does seem quite susceptible to denting.  (Its one with the shell all over.)

 Needed another helment the family on hols so ended up with a Vision which has a much kinder price tag.  Can't really tell the difference to be honest. (Less shell on the Vision)

[Johnny Brown]

I’ve had both the meteor and a black (i.e. mk ii) scirocco for years now. The meteor is more comfortable and stable on my head. The big benefit of the scirocco is not so much the weight (which has been shaved too far imo, just put the meteor cradle in) but the durability. The scirocco foam is not polystyrene , and is more or less indestructible, you can put in the bottom of your sac, sit on it for lunch, generally abuse it. I still use both depending on mood, ideally I’d have a meteor made of scirocco foam.

[cheque]

I’ve got a helmet holder thing that attaches your helmet to the outside of your rucksack. Stops it getting battered in there and frees up space.

[SamT]

I’ve got a helmet holder thing that attaches your helmet to the outside of your rucksack. Stops it getting battered in there and frees up space.

Ditto, a "Helmet Bra" but I find it a bit of a pain to clip on so rarely use it (usually enough space within but good to have for big days with lots of gear/clothes).

[galpinos]

FWIW, I have the original version of the Sirocco

It looks like it's made of polystyrene and will crumble if you look at it funny, but that is not the case.

FYI, the OG Sirocco is all EPP (Expanded Polypropylene), the new one is EPP with an EPS (Expanded Polystyrene) cap.

The Meteor is all EPS. I have a Meteor (I think I am on my third incarnation). Super comfy, barely notice it, have yet to break one (apart from reversing over one, which it did not survive but was a lot more intact than I would have thought!)

EPP is more expensive,  more durable and allows a lighter helmet design. Doesn’t cope as well with the vertical “rock fall” test hence the skull cap of a different material or the high top design of the OG Sirocco.

[SA Chris]

Just get a Grivel Stealth and do Kryten impressions.

[jwi]

Another vote for Petzl Sirocco. I have one and it is the first helmet I've had that I could consider using when sport climbing.

[Muenchener]

Anyone with any strong views or personal recommendations between those I've picked out or want to throw a new contender into the mix?

Am a huge fan of the Mammut Wallrider. I've had mine for a few years now - most comfortable helmet I've ever had, and it's still in perfect condition. Always lives on the outside or top of the rucksack when I'm not wearing it, but I haven't had to really baby it.

Bought the MIPS version for my son just in case it might actually be in some way safer. Just as comfortable, and I don't notice the few extra grams - no idea if it's really worth the extra cost.

[Will Hunt]

The decision was made for me by my comically small head. The Meteor looks least mushroom-like. That's your answer if you are similarly afflicted.

[SA Chris]

  / blessed

[spidermonkey09]

Another vote for Petzl Sirocco. I have one and it is the first helmet I've had that I could consider using when sport climbing.

Do you wear it sport climbing jwi or just multi pitching? I used to wear one all the time but stopped at some point and now never do. I am aware this is stupid but I'm kind of out of the habit now.

[jwi]

just when doing multipitch. I do not use a helmet when doing single pitch routes on solid rock and have never seen any reason to.

[Muenchener]

I do not use a helmet when doing single pitch routes on solid rock and have never seen any reason to.

My best friend fell clipping the second bolt at around seven metres in the Frankenjura with the first bolt at about four metres. Landed on my shoulder with his body pretty much horizontal, and gave the rock a good smack with his helmet while doing so.

[Paul B]

Bought the MIPS version for my son just in case it might actually be in some way safer. Just as comfortable, and I don't notice the few extra grams - no idea if it's really worth the extra cost.

There are a few articles on MIPS cycling helmets and in that context the technology (including the other names such as SPIN) looks to work. My wife had a crash where she ended up going over her bars at 20-25mph. Apart from the scrapes on the (white) helmet I thought she'd miraculously not impacted it at all. On closer inspection a week later it was totally cracked through internally which having taken a mallet to it this week before putting it in the bin was quite shocking at how much force that actually required!

Incidentally, do climbing brands offer cheaper replacements if you spanner one? It takes the sting off replacing the helmet when you get a generous discount on its replacement.

[SamT]

Had a look at the MIPS version of the BD Vision while in the shop the other day.  My thought was it looked a bit 'sweaty' if that makes sense. big yellow film that lines the inside of the helmet. 

I totally get MIPS on bike helmets, as I can completly visulise the mechanism for rotary injury to the neck as you slide on your head down the road.

First time I'd seem MIPS on a climbing helmet, and my instant reation was 'eh?'  as I imagine the vast majority climbing related head injuries to be fairly simply impacts.. either from swinging and smacking ones head against a rock, or falling stuff.

I guess its just an added layer, but as mentioned, thougth it looked a bit like it took away from the ventilation side of things, which if you're winter climbing, may not be an issue, but mines used generally for trad climbing/multipitch stuff, which is more often than not, on the warmer side, rather then the cold side.

[cheque]

I do not use a helmet when doing single pitch routes on solid rock and have never seen any reason to.

My best friend fell clipping the second bolt at around seven metres in the Frankenjura with the first bolt at about four metres. Landed on my shoulder with his body pretty much horizontal, and gave the rock a good smack with his helmet while doing so.

TobyD had a similar and absolutely horrific helmetless accident. I’ve worn a helmet for every route ever since.

[Muenchener]

Had a look at the MIPS version of the BD Vision while in the shop the other day.  My thought was it looked a bit 'sweaty' if that makes sense. big yellow film that lines the inside of the helmet. 

I haven't noticed any difference in ventilation/sweatiness between MIPS and non-MIPS Mammut Wallrider.