the shizzle > chuffing

Cheap bolts & required quality

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Potash:
It's been a decade since I last bolted anything so want to check current thinking.

What metal standard is required for inland rock?

Recommended diameter and length?

Who is selling reasonably priced bolts?

I also have a handful of Fixe bolts hanging around from years ago. These have no markings but FIXE on the bolts and and A2 70 on the nuts. Hangers have 038D-10. Can anyone comment on what these are made out of?

remus:
If you drop Dan Middleton at the BMC a message he'll be able to offer detailed advice. His email is listed here https://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmc-staff-list

kc:
From the perspective of a bolt fund. We have pretty much black listed anything to do with Fixe for now. That isn't to say all their stuff current or past is dodgy at all
 There have been issues so it's just easier to stick with petzl 12mm 316 stainless hangers because they are a good value readily available hanger.
The expansion bolts that are sometimes supplied with the hangers tend to be expensive and rather short so we go for a trusted and tested brand like Fischer FBN II Through Bolt M12 rather than some cheap Chinese knock off.
Of course if you are bolting inland rock miles from the sea in an arid destination stainless may be overkill.
Resin bolts are far superior of course but not necessarily very practical is some situations. Further reading and lots of useful information about good bolts and practices can be found here.
http://www.bolt-products.com/
And
https://climbingboltsupplies.com/

kc:
Not sure what 038D-10 is but I have a few  013D-10 Fixe hangers that have been removed from routes because they aren't stainless. A2 refers to the lower grade stainless 304. These are still good in wet but non corrosive environments. A4 on a nut implies 316.

cheque:

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