Not sure what 038D-10 is but I have a few 013D-10 Fixe hangers that have been removed from routes because they aren't stainless. A2 refers to the lower grade stainless 304. These are still good in wet but non corrosive environments. A4 on a nut implies 316.
If you drop Dan Middleton at the BMC a message he'll be able to offer detailed advice. His email is listed here https://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmc-staff-list
How important is it to maintain the same grade of stainless steel is it in a UK maritime but not coastal climate?From my googling it would appear that the 038D-10 hangers are 316 whilst the bolts themselves are 304.
I also have a handful of Fixe bolts hanging around from years ago. These have no markings but FIXE on the bolts and A2 70 on the nuts. Hangers have 038D-10.
I've established I have a dozen of the 304 stainless steel fixer [Fixe?] bolts with matching 304 hangers that aren't from the recalled batch.
Working out the appropriate quality of bolts seems sensible. I'm not seeing anyone placing titanium glue ins in the peak.
However, note that the recent EN standard is unequivocal in that “304 & 304L is not recommended for outdoor use”.
Cheers. I feel trying to work out whether using bolts sold as a set about ten years ago from a reputable supplier is a reasonable thing to do. It would appear they fall outside current recommendations so thanks for alerting me to this.
What was failing on the FIXE equipment? The bolt or the hanger?
Quote from: Hydraulic Man on August 02, 2023, 11:57:49 amWhat was failing on the FIXE equipment? The bolt or the hanger?I think there was a recall of PLX hangers, but this is not the only problem there have been with their anchors.
I've never understood the climbing scene's desire for chain-equalised (or any equalised) bolted lower-off/belays. I obviously 'get' equalisation being a trad and winter climber. Always thought it was:a) unnecessary for strength - 2 bolts each with a maillon and ring is perfectly adequate strength for any loading situation to be found in recreational climbing. A relatively small shock-loading onto a 10 or 12mm bolt lower-off is not going to lead to something failing... the equipment strength isn't that marginal.b) unnecessary for threading - if you're competent to untie and thread one equalised point, you're competent to untie and thread 2 points. c) introduces more elements into a system - all of which can corrode at different rates and/or have design or fabrication faults (e.g. fixe chain welds)d) has a larger visual presencee) looks ugly as shitI remember after my first trips to Malham in the late 2000's*, my main impressions were 'hard/tekky' and 'ugh ugly chain equalisations'.* things may have changed? haven't been for ages.
I personally try to put chain on belays only because it makes changing them (hypothetically) easier if you only have to undo/grind off a maillon instead of a ring. ..I normally go bolt- chain-bolt- lower off biner.
You never need to grind off a ring:1 Bolt, 1 maillon & ring.1 Bolt, 1 maillon & ring.Slightly offset so as not to twist a loaded rope.The ring never wears through as it doesn't develop a groove to wear (at least not in a lifetime). The maillon (or ring) can be easily replaced if any corrosion develops or there's a batch fault. Not that it ever should in a lifetime if they're good quality SS.
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