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various 8b-8c (Read 1993 times)

haydn jones

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various 8b-8c
July 11, 2023, 11:37:28 pm
Done a few new routes recently some link ups and some not.

Kilnsey

8b Petit lapin - little Ernie into le lapin. Hard 7B+ boulder into a PE 8a. Climbed with only 1 pre clipped

8c Adventure time - showtime into epic adventures. This straightens out epic adventure making it much more sustained and considerably harder. 3 star euro pumper this one.

Cornice

8b Mescaline power trip - freed from the floor rather than aiding up to the first bolt. Quite a hard 3 move sequence (7C?) Lands you at the starting holds of the aid start. From here a 8 move boulder (7B?) Before things ease. Climbed with only the first bolt pre clipped.

8b Sharper than Reality - start up last eggs before the M1 till a good knee bar (7ci+ish) then a hard boulder sequence (7B+ morpho) this lands you on the holds of monumental armblaster which you should not underestimate, I almost fell off the last move! It felt very hard when I climbed it (8b+ levels of effort!) but did it in a couple of goes and didn't have any beta sussed at the start and got really pumped making the top harder! Definitely harder than bricktop. 3stars!

Also wanted to mention I've cleaned Sharp Practice. It's such an incredible PE test piece. 3 bolt 7c+ into a one move 7A+ jump with no rest anywhere! Needs way more attention only 2 ascents since the FA in '95

Sharples
"The only other person I know that has defo done it was Mike Lea and his ascent was back just after I did the FA.

Mike was very competitive at the time and although he was. Climbing better than I was - by some distance he was determined to repeat it, to do it easily and then down grade it down to 8a!

Well, that not quite what happened.

Yes, he repeated it - possibly even in a day. However he found it nails and in repeating it he hurt his back quite badly doing the jump. So much so that he had to admit it was hard and way too hard for 8a so it stayed at 8a+.

Fast forward a few year and zippy put the lower bolt to protect the left hand traverse into forehead.

After that a few climbers tried my route again (Neil mawson, Ru Davies included) and they couldn't do it either and assumed it had lost holds so was impossible.

I told them it was a big dyno and everyone promptly gave up on it!!

I did it about the time I was doing all the other hard 8a+ so routes like nemesis, Devonshire arms kumquat etc and as a numbernof my FA had been downgraded I opted for 8a+ and thought well go on then downgrade that fucker!!
They didn't!"


Kingy

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#1 Re: various 8b-8c
July 12, 2023, 07:29:31 am
Solid work Haydn!  :strongbench:

I can attest to that Mescaline Power Trip start being nails, not at all obvious how it would go! Good to see the Last Eggs project get done too.

Stabbsy

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#2 Re: various 8b-8c
July 12, 2023, 07:35:21 am
8b Petit lapin - little Ernie into le lapin. Hard 7B+ boulder into a PE 8a. Climbed with only 1 pre clipped
Donít Little Ernie and Le Lapin start in the same place? Do you mean Little Ernie Direct Start?

haydn jones

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#3 Re: various 8b-8c
July 12, 2023, 07:36:14 am
Err yes, oops 😅

haydn jones

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#4 Re: various 8b-8c
July 12, 2023, 08:07:05 am
I shouldn't make posts at mid night. I meant to call it "Sharper than Fiction"

kc

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#5 Re: various 8b-8c
July 12, 2023, 07:11:54 pm
Nice one Haydn and hats off to you for rebolting and cleaning 30+ years of gunge off Mescaline. Be sure to put a hanger on the first bolt of last eggs if it is necessary or useful to other climbers and to indicate it is done unlike the 500m?proj on CTE.

 

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