Done a few new routes recently some link ups and some not.
Kilnsey
8b Petit lapin - little Ernie into le lapin. Hard 7B+ boulder into a PE 8a. Climbed with only 1 pre clipped
8c Adventure time - showtime into epic adventures. This straightens out epic adventure making it much more sustained and considerably harder. 3 star euro pumper this one.
Cornice
8b Mescaline power trip - freed from the floor rather than aiding up to the first bolt. Quite a hard 3 move sequence (7C?) Lands you at the starting holds of the aid start. From here a 8 move boulder (7B?) Before things ease. Climbed with only the first bolt pre clipped.
8b Sharper than Reality - start up last eggs before the M1 till a good knee bar (7ci+ish) then a hard boulder sequence (7B+ morpho) this lands you on the holds of monumental armblaster which you should not underestimate, I almost fell off the last move! It felt very hard when I climbed it (8b+ levels of effort!) but did it in a couple of goes and didn't have any beta sussed at the start and got really pumped making the top harder! Definitely harder than bricktop. 3stars!
Also wanted to mention I've cleaned Sharp Practice. It's such an incredible PE test piece. 3 bolt 7c+ into a one move 7A+ jump with no rest anywhere! Needs way more attention only 2 ascents since the FA in '95
Sharples
"The only other person I know that has defo done it was Mike Lea and his ascent was back just after I did the FA.
Mike was very competitive at the time and although he was. Climbing better than I was - by some distance he was determined to repeat it, to do it easily and then down grade it down to 8a!
Well, that not quite what happened.
Yes, he repeated it - possibly even in a day. However he found it nails and in repeating it he hurt his back quite badly doing the jump. So much so that he had to admit it was hard and way too hard for 8a so it stayed at 8a+.
Fast forward a few year and zippy put the lower bolt to protect the left hand traverse into forehead.
After that a few climbers tried my route again (Neil mawson, Ru Davies included) and they couldn't do it either and assumed it had lost holds so was impossible.
I told them it was a big dyno and everyone promptly gave up on it!!
I did it about the time I was doing all the other hard 8a+ so routes like nemesis, Devonshire arms kumquat etc and as a numbernof my FA had been downgraded I opted for 8a+ and thought well go on then downgrade that fucker!!
They didn't!"
