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West Coast of Ireland

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Johnny Brown:
I’ve not been for years, but am aware that the access situation in Eire is absolutely dire. Not only is there no sort of right to roam, there is no public foot path network. So all access is by kind permission of the landowner, if you can find them or they are disposed to help you. This is a big issue for walking up mountains, let alone cragging. Not only that but there was some sort of legal decision made making landowners liable for accidents on their land. So you’ve got this desperate catch 22 where you’ve no right of access but even at best they don’t want to know you’re there either.

SA Chris:
As opposed to Fultonius, when we went we had about 5 days in Lahinch, and it reached a point where we were looking for the pub that didn't have a full band going on some nights. Fortunately there was a distinct lack of people lopping off their fingers and flinging them about too :)

Good point JB raises about access, even back then there were issues accessing beaches to surf, as houses and golf clubs were being put up in front of them.

Bradders:
Hi Nigel, I just spent a month bouldering in the South West of Ireland, staying in Kenmare. Co. Kerry is (I think) the major area for bouldering in Ireland outside Fairhead and Wicklow.

I've been meaning to do a bit of a write up in the Black Valley / Gap of Dunloe thread but haven't had time yet. In short there's loads to do but it is a very fickle place and therefore hard to recommend. When the weather, foliage, midges, access and rock quality all align it is an incredible place to go bouldering though. The Bouldering in Ireland guide is a good place to start albeit there's loads been developed since.


--- Quote from: Johnny Brown on June 20, 2023, 08:58:04 am ---I’ve not been for years, but am aware that the access situation in Eire is absolutely dire. Not only is there no sort of right to roam, there is no public foot path network. So all access is by kind permission of the landowner, if you can find them or they are disposed to help you. This is a big issue for walking up mountains, let alone cragging. Not only that but there was some sort of legal decision made making landowners liable for accidents on their land. So you’ve got this desperate catch 22 where you’ve no right of access but even at best they don’t want to know you’re there either.

--- End quote ---

Echo this. It's a massive issue. The local climbers are understandably hyper cautious about access as a result. The area of the Black Valley where White Lightning is is banned apparently (I'm told) because the landowner wasn't asked before it was featured in the Bouldering in Ireland guide and the farmer took exception to this.

The locals I spoke to mentioned cliffs in Co Kerry with amazing sport climbing potential but they can't bolt them as Irish law means the landowner is legally liable for the installation of any fixed gear.

There are some brilliant ridge lines to traverse in Co Kerry and Co Cork but for most of them you seem to need one of the local professional guides to take you.

Even taking the dog for a walk from the cottage we were staying in I could only go along the road or a very specific hiking trail with a permissive access agreement.

Etc. Etc.

Nigel:
Thanks everyone for the replies so far, really appreciate all the replies, they're all very helpful. At work atm without much time so will reply properly later, but quickly the m-word has been mentioned: how bad are they? Wales / Lakes level? Or full on Torridon midge tornados?

Bradders:
I've had two of the worst midge experiences of my life in Co Kerry, and they were  ferocious around the cottage (not to mention ticks in the garden); packing the car up in the evening and following morning before leaving was horrible. Manageable generally at the bouldering areas with smidge and a midge hood, so probably not Torridonian levels (never been there).

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