[AJM]

Weighing up summer holiday choices and considering Ullapool. Always fancied the north of scotland, been years since I've managed to get up there. Family holiday - occasionally climbing wife and a 3.5yr and 6.5yr old both of whom are generally fairly ok at the outdoors and coming to crags and stuff.

What are the options like for bouldering round ullapool (nearer the better, as this is potentially the option for short day hits and/or trips where I just take the kids out if my wife fancies non climbing pottering/relaxing) that will be reasonable in summer (I'm not expecting primo friction, more thinking about being midges to death or losing the children on unsuitable crag bases or into man high bracken)? Reiff in the woods looks like it has good problems but mentions midges? I've seen references to a few other places, are any of them worth visiting?

Decent crags to take kids to (short walk and a decent space at the base for them to play) - any top tips? The wired guide makes some of the stuff round by gruinard look plausible (jetty, goat, some of that sort of stuff), I'd love to try ardmair if there are buttresses with a sensible base camp spot - any top recommendations would be great? I'm vaguely aware there's quite a lot of sport stuff there beyond what's in the wired guide but not yet researched what the best info source for those is.

Is there much of an active local scene? (I.e. if I could get an evening pass, would I be likely to be able to find a partner for bigger things)

Cheers,
Andy

[SA Chris]

Ian T (who is on here occasionally) is the man with a lot more knowledge than me, but there is quite lot in the area, worth getting his little Ullapool Bouldering Guide, which you should be able to get at Ullapool Outdoors.  We stayed in a cottage out towards Rhue when son was tiny, and you can walk to a selection of boulders in the headland, great for a quick solo hit with a couple of pads. Ardamair beach has some pleasant lowball roofy stuff, and is great for a family chillout / paddle on the pebble beach (great stone skimming). There has been some bouldering developed at the base of Ardmair Crag  too.Reiff is OK for kids, a lot of the crags have easy descents, and flat platforms at the bottom, but worth sussing out choices beforehand. Also it's a fairly long and windy road, need a full day there really. Sport wise there is Glutton Crag, which I have earmarked for a family trip, but not got there yet. https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/glutton_crag-20419/#overview don't know how child friendly it is.

Midge wise, you take your chances! If it's bright and sunny or breezy, you will be OK, otherwise they can be relentless. For low key family stuff, there is a lot of walking to do, nice beaches for paddling, boat trips, and things like Corrieshalloch Gorge with the Suspension Bridge  are fun for small kids https://www.nts.org.uk/visit/places/corrieshalloch-gorge. Lochinver is day trippable, with great beaches at Achmelvich with some limited bouldering.
 
Ullapool itself has a fair bit of child friendly stuff to do.   

[AJM]

Thanks Chris.

I might face mutiny at the idea of 20 minutes of vertical bog hillside approach to glutton 

That's useful to know about Reiff. It looks great, but I had largely written it off on the (seemingly incorrect) assumption that it would all be too involved. I'll dig further.

Yeah, the midges are an obvious risk, I guess I was just wondering how many places were particularly prone (shaded, sheltered etc) versus more exposed to sun and breeze - particularly triggered by the UKC description for reiff in the woods which sort of suggests it's more the former. This is the guide you mean, right?
https://ullapooloutdoors.co.uk/northwestoutdoorsullapool/2018/11/12/ullapool-bouldering-pdf-1

[SA Chris]

lol, yeah, that's the guide. Good for getting you to what's there anyway. Reiff varies greatly, Pinnacle area is generally everyone's first port of call, due to short walk and spread of grades. Pinnacle Walls has a reasonable descent, kids might need individual escorting down onto the platforms, and easy to set up topropes and a good spread of grades. https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/reiff_-_roinn_a_mhill-303/

[sherlock]

Pretty much what Chris is saying.
Couple of other things you might wish to consider....
Ullapool and environs are hellish busy in the summer. It can take ages to get anywhere due to the over popularity of the NC fucking 500.
It's getting silly expensive, with blatant profiteering in some places.
If you're struggling for car space,I can lend you a pad or two.

[AJM]

Thanks Sherlock - if we go for it then pad loan could be really helpful (we're thinking train+hirecar, so would be reliant on hiring/borrowing, we definitely won't have our own), thanks so much.

Yeah the nc500 thing is a bit of a pain, but I guess being tied to school holidays means there's probably not much I can do about it (I don't know if may half term would have been better but poole->ullapool for a week starts to feel like a stretch!)

[sherlock]

Just sent you a message, let me know if it didn't work!

[Bradders]

the over popularity of the NC fucking 500.

Purely out of interest is the NC 500 getting any less busy now that lockdowns are over with?

[SA Chris]

Yeah the nc500 thing is a bit of a pain, but I guess being tied to school holidays means there's probably not much I can do about it (I don't know if may half term would have been better but poole->ullapool for a week starts to feel like a stretch!)

Worth knowing, Scottish Schools go back 1/2 weeks earlier than English, so end of your summer hols may be quieter. We're doing the opposite, heading to England before English hols start, might try and show the kids my old Dorset stomping ground, but probably not.

Note that yes, it is busy due to limited infrastructure, but nowhere near as bad as it was just after lockdown when international travel was not allowed. And even then, if you are used to travelling about in the S/SW in the height of summer, it will seem pretty quiet. It's nothing like Sandbanks or Lulworth cove on a sunny bank holiday weekend.

[sherlock]

Yeah the nc500 thing is a bit of a pain, but I guess being tied to school holidays means there's probably not much I can do about it (I don't know if may half term would have been better but poole->ullapool for a week starts to feel like a stretch!)

Worth knowing, Scottish Schools go back 1/2 weeks earlier than English, so end of your summer hols may be quieter. We're doing the opposite, heading to England before English hols start, might try and show the kids my old Dorset stomping ground, but probably not.

Note that yes, it is busy due to limited infrastructure, but nowhere near as bad as it was just after lockdown when international travel was not allowed. And even then, if you are used to travelling about in the S/SW in the height of summer, it will seem pretty quiet. It's nothing like Sandbanks or Lulworth cove on a sunny bank holiday weekend.

Hmmm, don't know about that we bailed for Europe beginning of June and it was getting bad even then.
When were you last over this side Chris?
But I suppose it's what your used to. It's perfect November to April.

[Bonjoy]

Just along the coast from previously mentioned Achmelvich is Clachtoll. I found a good bouldering spot there last year but only had time to do this one prob. The beach there is very family friendly and there's plenty more to climb at the cave area. Some tidal some not. Good quality torridon sandstone.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/clachtoll-9340/for_whom_the_clach_tolls-667626#photos

[SA Chris]

When were you last over this side Chris?
But I suppose it's what your used to.

A while! TBF I am going on hearsay, but had a lot of summer weekends trying to access coastal crags and surfing beaches in the S / SW and I think you would be shocked by the sheet volume of cars / numpties not used to driving on single track lanes. At least the Scottish ones have marked overtaking places. Down there it's a free for all / who has a car they care about the least.

[Stewart]

Just along the coast from previously mentioned Achmelvich is Clachtoll. I found a good bouldering spot there last year but only had time to do this one prob. The beach there is very family friendly and there's plenty more to climb at the cave area. Some tidal some not. Good quality torridon sandstone.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/clachtoll-9340/for_whom_the_clach_tolls-667626#photos

Ahh, I wondered who FAd that.  I'd looked at that before but from memory been put off by the lack of obvious finishing place.. any video footage? Will get on it when I'm up this year.  Its an amazing roof but unfortunately blank apart from the lip. 
I added some other problems in the hills around clachtoll (on ukc) and the classic dws boulder problem near split rock, none of which are very child friendly.

AJM totally recommend Ullapool or lochinver as base camp.  It's just the best place in the world for kids and the midges are not an issue if you avoid inland areas when there is no wind.  Treat it as family holiday and enjoy beaches,  mountains,  infinite scrambling and if you get some time for hard climbing/ bouldering it's a bonus.. I'll be at clachtoll for last two weeks in July.  Always happy to meet up for a climb if that's not too early for you

[GazM]

As others have said, midge levels will be heavily dependent on the weather. If there's a good breeze anywhere will be fine, if not it could be hellish. In general rocky coastal areas will be less midgy than inland vegetated areas.

Like Stewart says, if you combine a bit of climbing with a generally outdoorsy holiday you'll have a great time, but at that time of year a dedicated climbing trip could be risky.
 
Ardmair beach is a classic family venue for us and NW facing so the rock itself is shady for much of the day. And just 10mins from Ullapool.
Ardmair Crag bouldering is v. quick  drying. I've never taken the kids up there but reckon I'd have to carry my 3.5yr old on my shoulders for some of it.
Reiff in the Woods is a great place but in high summer is likely to be a brackeny, midgy hell hole.
You'd need to be careful with the kids at Reiff (scrambly descents to big platforms above the sea) but it could offer some of the best climbing conditions at that time of year and Pinnacle Area in particular would be good for getting the kids on the odd top-rope.

I've only been once but getting a 3.5yr old up to Glutton sport crag would be very miserable for all involved...

And if you go but aren't able to get a lend of Sherlock's pads I ghink Ullapool Outdoors do pad hire.

[Bonjoy]

Just along the coast from previously mentioned Achmelvich is Clachtoll. I found a good bouldering spot there last year but only had time to do this one prob. The beach there is very family friendly and there's plenty more to climb at the cave area. Some tidal some not. Good quality torridon sandstone.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/clachtoll-9340/for_whom_the_clach_tolls-667626#photos

Ahh, I wondered who FAd that.  I'd looked at that before but from memory been put off by the lack of obvious finishing place.. any video footage? Will get on it when I'm up this year.  Its an amazing roof but unfortunately blank apart from the lip. 
I added some other problems in the hills around clachtoll (on ukc) and the classic dws boulder problem near split rock, none of which are very child friendly.

AJM totally recommend Ullapool or lochinver as base camp.  It's just the best place in the world for kids and the midges are not an issue if you avoid inland areas when there is no wind.  Treat it as family holiday and enjoy beaches,  mountains,  infinite scrambling and if you get some time for hard climbing/ bouldering it's a bonus.. I'll be at clachtoll for last two weeks in July.  Always happy to meet up for a climb if that's not too early for you

I finished on a jug in the groove above. You could top it fairly easily but I didn't have a spotter or anyone to move my pad. I do have a vid, I can send you by Whattsapp if you DM me your phone number.
I also almost managed a problem starting to the right to finish at the same place but ran out of time. And tried the awesome arete/lip of the roof to the left, which felt pretty hard but deffo a goer somewhere in the 7c-8a range. The higher more tidal rock to the left will give a bunch of decent 6 and 7 probs.

[AJM]

Thanks very much for the info everyone. We decided to take the plunge, so we'll be there 12-19 August. Looking forwards to it!

[GazM]

Good choice! It's possible that I might have a day off in that period and could possibly come over for a  route or two for a morning or afternoon. Can PM nearer the time.

[AJM]

Good choice! It's possible that I might have a day off in that period and could possibly come over for a  route or two for a morning or afternoon. Can PM nearer the time.

Sounds good!

[AJM]

Well, it's nearly upon us, but I've got to say I've seen more encouraging forecasts. The great British summer in full swing.

[andy moles]

Showery but bright and breezy is not the worst forecast you could have in the NW at this time of year - not ideal certainly, but some rocks will dry quickly, the views will be good and you should be able to avoid getting midged to death 

[Dingdong]

and you should be able to avoid getting midged to death 

The most important part

[sherlock]

Well, it's nearly upon us, but I've got to say I've seen more encouraging forecasts. The great British summer in full swing.

It's been nowhere near as bad as some forecasts would indicate and Andy's spot on with his comments.
Not quite as busy as some years either.

[SA Chris]

Looks like forcast is for localised showers and sunny, you should be OK if you are geared to grab windows when they appear. Ardmair and the Rhue blocks dry very quickly.

[AJM]

Yeah I think it's just going to be a case of taking the chance, isn't it.

[SA Chris]

Yep. Make hay when the sun shines, etc. We also did this when we were last there, fine for all ages;

https://www.summerqueen.co.uk/

[andy moles]

Not quite as busy as some years either.

I think they're all on Skye. I've just left and my god - as busy as I've ever seen it.

[SA Chris]

Clear hot on IG right now.

[sherlock]

Clear hot on IG right now.

......and pishing down this morning!

[Stewart]

Just along the coast from previously mentioned Achmelvich is Clachtoll. I found a good bouldering spot there last year but only had time to do this one prob. The beach there is very family friendly and there's plenty more to climb at the cave area. Some tidal some not. Good quality torridon sandstone.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/clachtoll-9340/for_whom_the_clach_tolls-667626#photos

After Bonjoy's inspiration I added a quality arete line to the left of his problem if you/anyone is in the area. Like Bonjoy's problem, it actually stays pretty dry in the rain but very heavy rain can leave the crucial foothold seeping for a few days after. Bit of kitchen roll in the cracks can save the day though. The rock gets a bit loose after the jug so didn't fancy topping out. Grade might be bullshit as i'd been paddleboarding with kids earlier in the day and fatigue levels were unknown..

https://www.instagram.com/p/CvS772btV8x/?img_index=1

Some other Clachtoll hillside problems

https://www.instagram.com/p/CgXQR8Gj5dk/?img_index=1

Deep water bouldering at Clachtoll

https://www.instagram.com/p/B7ioF2KhDtv/

[AJM]

Is there any part of the Ardmair crag base that would be a suitable base camp for two moderately tolerant children? They will at times let us climb whilst they play, but it obviously has to be somewhere that’s safe enough for them to do so and not so constricted that they can’t actually do anything.

Edit: also interested in similar knowledge on Gruinard crag (red John of the battles, that wall)

[sherlock]

Is there any part of the Ardmair crag base that would be a suitable base camp for two moderately tolerant children? They will at times let us climb whilst they play, but it obviously has to be somewhere that’s safe enough for them to do so and not so constricted that they can’t actually do anything.

Edit: also interested in similar knowledge on Gruinard crag (red John of the battles, that wall)

NB. I don't have kids so no idea what they can/can't do....
Ardmair crag is above a slope, not lethal but it might hurt if you rolled in parts.
Certainly some wider flat bits the further up you go.
Gruinarard crag ok. Midgy and brackeny and ticks though.

[SA Chris]

If you want to have a quick session with kids, Ardmair Beach would be great for them. Best skimming stones spot, flat and sunny, hopefully shouldn't be too midgy.

[AJM]

I was thinking roped, but didn't specify ( !). Ardmair Beach on the list for bouldering, thanks

[GazM]

The Arapiles Wall area of Ardmair Crag is pretty kiddy friendly (never actually taken my kids there, but could imagine doing it). That's where the main bouldering is, but there are routes too. Seem to recall Biological Warfare on the right was an OK E1. Most of the routes in that section are E3 or up if I recall.

[SA Chris]

also interested in similar knowledge on Gruinard crag (red John of the battles, that wall)

Ah OK, from a routes crags perspective I've only climbed on Jetty Buttress in that area and that would be fine, short walk and all. There are a few sport crags in that area that might be a good bet too.

[AJM]

We’ve just got back from Jetty as it happens, worked out pretty well, did a bunch of the VSs.

[SA Chris]

How was rest of trip?

[AJM]

How was rest of trip?

I completely intended to do a writeup and thank you for all the suggestions, but I got back from holiday and life just kept happening.....

It was a really good mixed activity trip.
- We did a day at jetty (couple of VSs), at goat (the crag warmups, basically) and reiff (some easy topropes, it was very blowy). Not much done per day but partly that was kids/wife also toproping things, partly moderate kids attention span, and to be honest any trad as a unit of 4 is an achievement in my book.
- boat trip to the summer isles was great, the kids loved dolphins
- we stopped briefly at the gorge and we took the kids up both Ullapool hill and Stac Pollaidh. They decided hillwalking was great which is 100% one of the big wins of the trip.

We also had a few days in Inverness but my wife wasn't feeling great so I took the kids up the cairngorm mountain railway and we visited fort George rather than any more climbing. The day trains up went surprisingly well and the sleeper train back ditto.

Thanks to everyone who provided ideas and suggestions and so on.

[SA Chris]

Excellent, sounds like an all round win.

I go trad routing with wife and kids, i am usually the only one who doesn't actually get any climbing in.