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Escalade en Périgord (Read 1785 times)

Jack Andrew

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Escalade en Périgord
June 14, 2023, 11:07:57 am
Not sure if this is posted in the right place, but I’m going on a family holiday for a fortnight in the summer to the Dordogne in France, there looks to be a small woodland limestone crag nearby called Les Blocs Du Diable, that I’d like to check out.

I’ve found the guide book for sale online but can’t seem to find an online topo for the crag, bit of a long shot but thought i’d ask, has anyone been before or know the area? 

Would rather not drop €20 on the guide for the whole area and UKC has no descriptions of any problems. So if anyone knows anything about it thatd be great :)

Thanks

jwi

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#1 Re: Escalade en Périgord
June 14, 2023, 11:46:27 am
Use the search function....

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30805

I did a quick spot of googling and have not found any information posted since 2021, when climbing at the site was still forbidden.

https://www.camptocamp.org/waypoints/195818/fr/la-forge-du-diable

« Last Edit: June 14, 2023, 11:54:57 am by jwi »

mr chaz

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#2 Re: Escalade en Périgord
June 14, 2023, 12:57:41 pm
I climbed here in 2012 whilst on a family holiday and remember it being great. I also remember my brother's face after grabbing a 2 finger pocket and then immediately jumping off the route, claiming there was something furry inside, followed by a pissed off bat.

Holds are nearly all pockets, often quite painful, which made the grades feel stern. Though there is a route called 'Pin's' that was my first 7a and I remember that being lovely! A few different aspects so possible to find shade. We also spent a day at the nearby Forge du Boulou which was good for 6s and shady til early afternoon.

We got our guide via Dan Evans on UKC who was local at the time, no idea if he still is or how to contact him now. Sorry can't help you with current access situation.

gardinrm

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#3 Re: Escalade en Périgord
June 14, 2023, 07:46:04 pm
I tried to climb there in Summer 2021, bouldering underneath the main crag near the river. A man came and told me climbing was forbidden. He said there had been some issues with young people and that those climbing at the main crag had never gained permission. He was very affable, but clear he didn't want climbing. My dad (who works in forestry in France) said it is likely to do with liability associated with land ownership.

I've got a guide if you want to borrow: there are other places to climb around there. Lots of limestone crags and caves, which is partly why there are so many neolithic remains and artworks in the vicinity. 

 

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