[remus]

I was idly wondering today about examples of famous routes and problems that are chipped. The first few that came to mind were:

• Le Rose et le vampire
• Carnage - Bas Cuvier
• Rock Atrocity
• Hugh - Fred Rouhling's 9a
• Bronx

Im sure there's loads more that are missing. I was mainly thinking of stuff that is blatantly chipped rather than things that have been reinforced a little, though obviously it's all a spectrum.

[Bradders]

Is Pamplemousse in Brione quite a notorious one? Amazing rock features on it and then a perfect carved slot right in the middle.

Also may be completely wrong / committing sacrilege but...Midnight Lightning?

[Teaboy]

Do they have to be internationally famous? If not Manic Strain and Cafe Libre

[Andy B]

Colossus on rainbow walls
Manic strain etc
The keel
Downhill racer
Oedipus ring your mother
Pocketeering and the other one on that face
Black chipper
Dave birkett’s made to measure thing at his local slate quarry

[Kingy]

At Kilnsey the trad route Claws is chipped. Some holds on Dalliance are chipped, thread on UKC years ago.

[edshakey]

Another Fred Rouhling: L’autre Côté du Ciel.

Just Do It, Smith Rock?

[webbo]

Small Brown chip on the arête so you could use rope tension.
The chip on the Keel is a foothold for the 4 plus stand start.

[webbo]

Pocket at bottom of Milky Way.
I’ll get my coat.

[owensum]

Font:

Arabesque
Beatle Juice

[grimer]

Body Machine?

[yetix]

Much of magic wood is manufactured I believe?

[lagerstarfish]

Pocket at bottom of Milky Way.
I’ll get my coat.

all the peg scarred routes that are now climbed without aid

[mrjonathanr]

Everything at Bout du Monde from Tabou Zizi rightwards I think

[andy moles]

Not a route, but I noticed a couple of days ago that someone has gone to town on the approach scramble to the corner of Dinas Cromlech. Looks like an attempt to counteract the polish. 

Lots of tiny chips all over it.

[andy moles]

Those Mark Edwards routes in Cornwall with the magic cam slots?

Manic Strain and Colossus mentioned, but there are plenty more on slate. Ride the Wild Surf and Menopausal Discharge for starters. Though chipping slate seems somehow less egregious than most rocks, even those in quarries. Maybe because the workings had barely stopped before people started climbing there.

[steveri]

For the retro fans, Cheat at Wilton 1.

[duncan]

Pocket at bottom of Milky Way.
I’ll get my coat.

all the peg scarred routes that are now climbed without aid

I guess you could make a distinction between accidental scarring from aid climbers and calculated scarring with the intention of climbing routes free. "Mr X" on Milky Way and Ray Jardine on The Phoenix being examples of the latter. Wellington Crack might be a bit of both: Livesey is supposed to have encouraged his outdoor activities students practice their pegging on it before his free ascent, no idea if it's true but it's so in character I want to believe it!

Jardine's eponymous traverse on The Nose must be one of the more famous and blatant examples.

Taking an ice axe on routes and creating holds was apparently common practice in the 19th century. The Collie Step on Moss Ghyll (1892!) a famous example.

Yorkshire grit is full of examples but the Derbyshire and Staffordshire equivalents much less so. Were the latter much less climbed - more vigorously wardened perhaps - during the era when chipping was more accepted?

[Nutty]

Linden.

[Wellsy]

I guess Buckstone Dyno in a sense

[jwi]

La Dura Dura has to be one of the most iconic. Not a natural hold on the hard part.

Like Bradders, I strongly suspect the lighting-bolt hold on Midnight lighting, but without checking with a ladder I could not say for sure

[jwi]

Take it or leave it in Verdon is perhaps not famous anymore, as no one goes there nowadays

[Stabbsy]

I was always quite suspicious of Doubting Thomas at Malham, although not sure if it was a known Livesey indiscretion. The key hold on the crux seemed to me to be "a bit unnatural".

[Duma]

Cider Soak (created rather than chipped I guess)

There's loads of detail of chipping on slate here:
https://snowdoniamountainguides.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Slate_Historical_Section.pdf

[Teaboy]

The Cad was supposed to have been chipped

[Tom de Gay]

I guess Buckstone Dyno in a sense

Likewise Angel's Share etc.

La Balance at Cuvier would be one of more famous and egregious examples. Possibly Abattoir too. Funny old place Cuvier, full of chipped holds to make problems easier, and pokey eliminates and link ups to make problems harder.