the shizzle > chuffing
Famous examples of chipped routes/problems
SA Chris:
--- Quote from: stone on August 02, 2023, 09:59:26 pm ---That conversation gave me the impression that the one guy was responsible for much of the Yorkshire Grit chipping and was hated for it by other climbers at the time..
--- End quote ---
From Caley all the way out to Widdop? Or was the action of one guy making it seem OK for others? Thin end of the wedge chisel?
Dingdong:
I actually had a couple questions for people regarding this thread:
1) would it be possible to fix a lot of the chips using resin mixed with broken rock and dirt to fill the chips? I’m guessing the fact it hasn’t been done means it wouldn’t work?
2) does anyone know if the right hand flat crimp on bens roof at tor is chipped? Always wondered as it’s essentially the perfect flatty
User deactivated.:
--- Quote from: Dingdong on August 03, 2023, 09:23:20 am ---I actually had a couple questions for people regarding this thread:
1) would it be possible to fix a lot of the chips using resin mixed with broken rock and dirt to fill the chips? I’m guessing the fact it hasn’t been done means it wouldn’t work?
--- End quote ---
It would work but you'd never get it to look perfect. There's also the issue that in many instances, the chipped hold was previously just a worse hold and/or the problem might not go with the chip filled in. However, on balance, i'd happily vote for all chipped holds (on grit at least) to be filled in. I'd even fill some myself if the community were for it.
steveri:
Historically chipped routes are probably best left alone, you're essentially wiping the shared history of everyone that's done them. Flippant point, quarries are one massive chip, but you work with what you're given.
The classic Black Magic at Pex was fairly successfully repaired (some comments say too well). Years later it's hard to spot, done carefully with local sand was mixed in.
Similar thing happened at another sandstone venue, Harmers Wood where it looked like a router had been taken to the wall to create gear slots. Filled with glue/sand and texture matched to the surrounding rock. Can't fine an 'after' pic right now.
https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=10158780249097065&set=pcb.1023328484783756
Dingdong:
Yeah I think with careful work and consideration a good repair job is definitely possible. There’s so much stuff in the peak Bonjoy has fixed and you couldn’t even tell.
I repaired a foot this year that broke off and used sand and some grit from below the block and came out good as new!
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[*] Previous page
Go to full version