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Famous examples of chipped routes/problems (Read 8391 times)

mrjonathanr

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The spike foothold on the moves left at the top of Zoolook looked chipped to me.

ĎThe Angelís Shareí is the quantity of whisky which evaporates from the cask when itís stored for aging btw

jwi

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My mother-in-law's husband told me that in French, the angel's share refers to any alcohol lost when maturing a fermented beverage in a barel, so also for wine there is a part des anges. The term is supposedly from alchemy, where the volatile liquids where symbolised by angels (I found support for this statement in https://books.openedition.org/pup/2769?lang=fr paragraph 77)

SA Chris

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The spike foothold on the moves left at the top of Zoolook looked chipped to me.

ĎThe Angelís Shareí is the quantity of whisky which evaporates from the cask when itís stored for aging btw

Not a great film, but still pretty good, and worth a watch https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1924394/

jwi

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What's the deal with First round first minute by the way? From the ground it looks almost completely manufactured? It was also classified as such on Verhoeven's great/infamous post about possible 9b-projects in Spain that was up for a few hours before his sponsors took it down. Anyone's been up it?

steveri

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Not a great film, but still pretty good, and worth a watch https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1924394/
I thought it was pretty good, a sort of Whisky Galore for the Young Offenders generation.
Climbing connection: an old climbing friend sold his first flat to Loach's son way back.

As you were.

Probes

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To please Fiend, in these parts, namely Lancs quarries, Cheat is pretty infamous in Wilton... a blank wall with 3 or 4 perfectly chipped and placed crimps. Terrifying to set off up if you're at your limit, but the holds appear just when needed. That said I've seen a couple of heinous videos of lobs from the top, that are very close to disaster. Rumours of the villain of the crime still circulate.

Skip to ends...




SA Chris

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Watching Shauna's new vid about Northumberland, made me think again, is that first right hand hold on the Nadser chipped? Feels and looks like it might be.

sherlock

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To please Fiend, in these parts, namely Lancs quarries, Cheat is pretty infamous in Wilton... a blank wall with 3 or 4 perfectly chipped and placed crimps. Terrifying to set off up if you're at your limit, but the holds appear just when needed. That said I've seen a couple of heinous videos of lobs from the top, that are very close to disaster. Rumours of the villain of the crime still circulate.

Skip to ends...




An early guidebook says something along the lines 'difficult if you're not the same height as the chipper(n.b. Hank is 5'10").

stone

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Yorkshire grit is full of examples but the Derbyshire and Staffordshire equivalents much less so. Were the latter much less climbed - more vigorously wardened perhaps - during the era when chipping was more accepted?

I asked Dennis Gray about this a while ago (1993-ish I guess). He told me there was a prolific Yorkshire chipper in action when he started climbing. Apparently Dennis and other climbers used to steal equipment from the chipper to try and slow him down. He said some of the chip ladders the guy carved on Caley boulders went up established natural climbs. That conversation gave me the impression that the one guy was responsible for much of the Yorkshire Grit chipping and was hated for it by other climbers at the time..

36chambers

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Yorkshire grit is full of examples but the Derbyshire and Staffordshire equivalents much less so. Were the latter much less climbed - more vigorously wardened perhaps - during the era when chipping was more accepted?

I asked Dennis Gray about this a while ago (1993-ish I guess). He told me there was a prolific Yorkshire chipper in action when he started climbing. Apparently Dennis and other climbers used to steal equipment from the chipper to try and slow him down. He said some of the chip ladders the guy carved on Caley boulders went up established natural climbs. That conversation gave me the impression that the one guy was responsible for much of the Yorkshire Grit chipping and was hated for it by other climbers at the time..

The chipped climbs around Caley make me sad. Pretty much all of them look like they could have made great natural climbs. Sucker's Wall in particular.

SA Chris

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That conversation gave me the impression that the one guy was responsible for much of the Yorkshire Grit chipping and was hated for it by other climbers at the time..

From Caley all the way out to Widdop? Or was the action of one guy making it seem OK for others? Thin end of the wedge chisel?

Dingdong

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I actually had a couple questions for people regarding this thread:

1) would it be possible to fix a lot of the chips using resin mixed with broken rock and dirt to fill the chips? Iím guessing the fact it hasnít been done means it wouldnít work?

2) does anyone know if the right hand flat crimp on bens roof at tor is chipped? Always wondered as itís essentially the perfect flatty

Liamhutch89

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I actually had a couple questions for people regarding this thread:

1) would it be possible to fix a lot of the chips using resin mixed with broken rock and dirt to fill the chips? Iím guessing the fact it hasnít been done means it wouldnít work?


It would work but you'd never get it to look perfect. There's also the issue that in many instances, the chipped hold was previously just a worse hold and/or the problem might not go with the chip filled in. However, on balance, i'd happily vote for all chipped holds (on grit at least) to be filled in. I'd even fill some myself if the community were for it.

steveri

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Historically chipped routes are probably best left alone, you're essentially wiping the shared history of everyone that's done them. Flippant point, quarries are one massive chip, but you work with what you're given.

The classic Black Magic at Pex was fairly successfully repaired (some comments say too well). Years later it's hard to spot, done carefully with local sand was mixed in.

Similar thing happened at another sandstone venue, Harmers Wood where it looked like a router had been taken to the wall to create gear slots. Filled with glue/sand and texture matched to the surrounding rock. Can't fine an 'after' pic right now.

https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=10158780249097065&set=pcb.1023328484783756

Dingdong

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Yeah I think with careful work and consideration a good repair job is definitely possible. Thereís so much stuff in the peak Bonjoy has fixed and you couldnít even tell.

I repaired a foot this year that broke off and used sand and some grit from below the block and came out good as new!

 

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