the shizzle > chuffing

Minos at Cheedale

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Adam Lincoln:
Is this defunct now? Last ascent was Pete Dawson over a year ago, according to ukc anyway.

Seems to have lots of loose rock on start after winter and no chalk. First move seems really really hard now, harder than say Entre.

Does it still get done or does it need some glue?

Wood FT:
I vaguely remember it breaking and it was already very very hard. Worth asking Mirf about it as he did the link from it into his new finish of Abberation in the recent past?

Adam Lincoln:
Rob mirfin?

Wood FT:
If he's the chap with steel fingers, yes.

T_B:
Unpopular opinion but there’s an argument for stripping the bolts. The reason they’re so poorly positioned up high was presumably so that they couldn’t be clipped from Nadin’s trad route, Flight of Icarus? Having done that route a couple of years ago I personally feel they detract from it. One is by your right foot after the crux. And the top of FofI takes the top groove feature direct, whereas Minos/Celebration kind of shuffles up to the right. Minos/Celebration is a pretty meh route IMO.

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