the shizzle > beta - chuffing

Verbal Abuse, Raven Tor

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Tony:
 :offtopic: but:
I'm pretty sure the first bolt on Tequila is a good bit higher. But, more relevantly, Chee Tor benefits from predominantly (in terms of numbers of routes) being a trad venue...

I'd give a few years but I don't hold out much hope for Verbal in the long run

kc:
After the last hard move passing the overlap the route went slightly right onto a rubble ledge and an easy loose finish. I removed a considerable about of rock and and loose holds to divert the line leftwards to solid rock. The top bolt also forces people away from the loose rock. The only reason I did this is because of the danger to the large amount of people that hang around and pass under the route.

My sequence is rh big undercut with cemented peg, lh crimp, rh minging crimp, lh ear, rh little hidden two finger dink just right of ear, lh crimp rail rh difficult match (crux) lh Gaston bottom of flake.
There is a photo of Jerry in Peak Rock and Dougie on the top overlap in RFax03.

Kingy:
I did it in October last year and followed just right of the white and blue line of the route on your pic. It was pretty crimpy and the crux was moving left just above the 2nd bolt to get into the bottom of the flake like Kristian describes. There was a beak-like 2 finger crimp if memory serves and some other assorted rat jobs. I added 2 giant slings to the 2nd and 3rd bolts to turn it into a modern sport route. Tough moves but I didn't think it was quite hard enough to get 8a.

kc:
I couldn't really say what grade it is. Similar difficulty but different to Call of Nature but that is considered soft 8a for the Tor. I ran a few laps on it but couldn't be arsed to lead it mainly because I think the climbing on it and the Tor generally is fucking horrible.
I'm currently cleaning up a real gem. A neglected 8a that has probably not been climbed in 25 years that is way better than garbage like Ring of Fire and Toilet.

Tony:
Thanks all for knowledge. Sounds like I’m using same method at crux but have a more circuitous (weak person’s?) way of getting there.

I find a perverse enjoyment in climbing the horrible routes at the Tor/Peak - at least you don’t have to queue for them!

I find grading these very bouldery routes tricky but I’d agree with kc regarding the relative difficulty (for me) to other nearby routes. That said, the Tor is probably less “internally-consistent” compared to other crags as grades (and routes) have sporadically changed over the many years since their FAs.

Look forward -in due course- to the details of your newly refreshed 8a kc. Cheers.

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