the shizzle > beta - chuffing

Verbal Abuse, Raven Tor

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Tony:
I think I’ve got this sussed now but it seems much harder than 7c+ (disclaimer: I’m crap at bouldering).


I imagine, like with most of the Tor, holds have gone AWOL since the first ascent. However, this still must have been pretty exciting for E7 BITD. Though I appreciate new (eGrader…) E7 is a bit different to ‘80s E7.

I’m intrigued by the positioning of the new bolts relative to where the original gear (pegs?) were. Does anyone have any knowledge?

(PMs welcome if anyone would rather get in touch off-line.)

kc:
It was Jerry who was keen for his route to be re-equipped as no one seems to have done it in years. Initially Haydn drilled some holes for resin bolts directly next to the old pegs but never finished the job.
Verbal Abuse was climbed with twin ropes with a baby bouncer fall at the crux. This would have involved a traverse or a down climb to set up so I suggested to Jerry putting the bolts at 180° to the original peg placements but in a straight line so people could use a single rope. You'd still get a similar experience that he wanted to be maintained. There is nothing stopping you stick clipping the first and extending the draws if you wish. It's a compromise. No doubt someone will add a few more bolts it the future.
 

kc:
Incidentally which way are you approaching the crux? Me Myself and I did it from the left looking at the b&w photos. I hit the crux from the right.

Tony:
Many thanks for the info kc, that's great knowledge.

I like that the bolting respects the original "trad" experience - I'm guessing it was always just peg protected (and maybe a wire where the third bolt is now?). I may well extend the second bolt - I'm claiming the baby bouncer would have been nicer than the single bolt - cough! cough!

I'm sure you will be proven right that more bolts will get added eventually but that's progress...

For me, a rockover and press into a gaston at the bottom of the flake below the second bolt (red circle in attached pic) is the crux. My hands roughly follow the purple line in attached pic.

Is that what you did?

I'd be very keen to see the pics of Jerry on it if you're able to post them - I couldn't find anything online.

Cheers again!

Wood FT:
Hayden drilled them on the same day I drilled some new holes for the Call of Nature belay but, with it being a very cold morning, a wiser head at the tor that day told us the glue would struggle to go off and so we left it. I do remember Haydn wacking those glued-in pegs with a hammer pretty hard and they didn't budge but glad you bolted it. The high first clip just gives a similar scenario to Tequila which seems to exist quite well like it is.

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