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Women who have climbed Deliverance at Stanage (Read 9072 times)

Johnny Brown

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Marc was the first person (to my knowledge) to use the high right foot method, which is where the “static” myth comes from. This was about 97 I guess

Pretty sure this is how Johnny says he did it in the early neineties. Marc may have been the first to do the direct start though, and certainly the first (and probably the only) to onsight the whole problem including direct start and high foot with the only beta offered (from me) being disregarded.

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Brad Pit with the ultimate technique mantle rock over method?  IMO the most aesthetic beta?

Having done both, no way is the toe more aesthetic than the heel. It's much more powerful and has a really bunched and grotty match move. When you get the position right the heel method is one of the most beautiful moves on grit, you don't need to match or even use any of the intermediates.

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I think in all honesty the heel beta came along after the over-brushing of the rail improved it to the point where a heel was feasible

Nonsense. The heel bit has barely changed since before MleM came along - I remember Sharma experimenting with the heel before it had been repeated.

SA Chris

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What's the worst heeled shoe it's been done with? (BP not Deliverpants)

jimpopeonarope

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What's the worst heeled shoe it's been done with? (BP not Deliverpants)
Pretty sure Bosi did it in a sample pair of high top Wild Country shoes

ferret

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I don't think the heel leavened placement changed on BP, the hand holds got a bit more positive post the early ascents I think.

 

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