[edshakey]

That's very true. I suppose I was just thinking that nobody really talks about the numbers in lead qualis anyway so who cares!

Glad to see Toby seal an inevitable combined spot, not sure any other Brits will have snuck in?

[James Malloch]

Thanks for the explanation!

[jakk]

Glad to see Toby seal an inevitable combined spot, not sure any other Brits will have snuck in?

Looks like Molly's in both semis!

[edshakey]

Yes! When I posted, it was just men who had competed twice, but you're right, Molly surely has done enough for combined. Very exciting!

[Stabbsy]

Any thoughts on the value of tactical poor performances in the individual events at these champs? You probably need to make semis in both lead and boulder to guarantee making it into the combined semis, but if you make finals then it’s a lot of back to back competition this week, then 2 days rest followed by a full-on day next Wednesday to qualify for combined finals 2 or 3 days later. Best chance of  Olympic qualification for some might be to back off in the individual semis if they’re already qualified for the combined.

[jwi]

Micka Mawem is pretty good at peaking at the right time, no?

[SA Chris]

unlike his brother, getting injured at worst time.

[jwi]

Shauna Coxsey is a very good pundit, btw.

[Muenchener]

Shauna Coxsey is a very good pundit, btw.

Best I've ever heard imo. The co-commentators are obviously always very knowledgeable, but Shauna's reflections on technique, tactics, headspace are on another level.

Currently trying to get through the semifinal replay in time for the final - and failing because I keep rewinding to have another listen to a bit of Shauna wisdom

[jwi]

Inoxydable Micka Mawem !

[sirlockoff]

what a beast Mickael, 33 years old, and chuffed to see him win. It was also against probably the toughest field you can ever have, every big hitter present in semis (ondra, schubert, tomoa, toby, and so on)

Somehow he always becomes alive when olympics are on the stake

[Bradders]

Shauna really is brilliant as a pundit. Feels like you're getting genuine value for money from the subscription. Hope this is a more regular thing!

The setting for the Men's semi and final was also impeccable. Split the field perfectly, great variation in problems and styles to play to different strengths and weaknesses, a good spectacle without too much circus climbing. Semi problem 2 was maybe a little too hard but then Sorato cruised it which was a cool showcase of just how good he is.

Thoughts on the see-through no-tex holds? I don't really understand why having slightly damp hands would help. Certainly made for an entertaining final problem, especially when Mawem just stuck the move to the zone.

[jwi]

I thought the final problem was utter nonsense and I am happy it didn't much affect the outcome. Made for an ok spectacle at least. The run across the boxes was also nonsense, and boring to look at as well. (My parents who have never seen a bouldering comp also lost all interest looking at climbers looking stupid about then).

I don't know if I have ever seen a final where finger strength has counted for so little.

[Dingdong]

I thought the final problem was utter nonsense and I am happy it didn't much affect the outcome. Made for an ok spectacle at least. The run across the boxes was also nonsense, and boring to look at as well. (My parents who have never seen a bouldering comp also lost all interest looking at climbers looking stupid about then).

I don't know if I have ever seen a final where finger strength has counted for so little.

I think you underestimate just how much finger strength is required for that final problem, especially the move to the top hold off that bad right hand pinch. Same goes for the yellow problem. And then how much shoulder strength and stability was needed for the press one with the volumes. I thought it was a great set of problems and I would personally enjoy having a go on them just as much as I would ratting on limestone.

For me watching someone path a ladder of crimps is infinitely more boring but everyone has their preferences I guess.

[Droyd]

the subscription

Not sure if this is already common knowledge, but it's possible to watch the streams both live and after the fact for free via YouTube with a VPN.

[Neil F]

Any chance of a link...?

[duncan]

https://protonvpn.com

Download the free version, follow instructions, set your location to USA, then open YouTube and look for IFSC channel.

Enjoyed the mens final, not sure about the glassy holds but certainly created a spectacle.

Also thought Shauna was a brilliant co-commentor, I learned a lot.

[Neil F]

Thanks Duncan

[Droyd]

https://www.youtube.com/@sportclimbing/streams

Or go to the IFSC Youtube page and then the 'Live' (not 'Videos') tab to see the different streams, including ones scheduled for the rest of the event.

However you won't see any of the Bern World Champs content if YouTube thinks you're in Europe, which is where the VPN comes in - if you're on Chrome this one works well: https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/free-vpn-for-chrome-vpn-p/majdfhpaihoncoakbjgbdhglocklcgno.

Set that to one of the free USA ones (Oregon and Virginia both seem to work) and you should then be able to watch everything. Hope that's clear enough!

[Neil F]

Brilliant - thanks Droyd 

[stone]

Thoughts on the see-through no-tex holds? I don't really understand why having slightly damp hands would help. Certainly made for an entertaining final problem, especially when Mawem just stuck the move to the zone.

Is it because the no-tex holds can't bite into the skin at all -so the only way to stick on is by a sort of sucker effect? At work, we've got labels for glass fish tanks that are just very smooth flexible plastic with no glue. They stick solidly even to damp glass. I guess the aim is to become a human climber version of those tank labels.

[PipeSmoke]

I guess it’s all down to preference but Shauna talks way too much for my taste. Feels like she makes a good observation and then waffles on about it for a while, then repeats it all for the next climber. She’s clearly a lot more comfortable than the other co-commentators they get on though

[IanP]

I guess it’s all down to preference but Shauna talks way too much for my taste. Feels like she makes a good observation and then waffles on about it for a while, then repeats it all for the next climber. She’s clearly a lot more comfortable than the other co-commentators they get on though

Some initial nervousness maybe , but I think she is settling in quickly and for me adds a lot of insight and is doing an excellent job.

Away from that I enjoyed the women's final.  Obviously lacked a bit of tension for the gold but for me there's a real enjoyment in seeing a truly great athlete perform so well.

If you exclude Janja the setters actually did a good job with excellent separation between the competitors.

[Duma]

Toby and Molly through to lead finals!

[crimpinainteasy]

Both Molly and Toby through to finals tonight!