[UnkArl]

Absolutely incredible! If Toby had done M2 (he was one move away) he would have absolutely dominated. 

[Wellsy]

Toby's ascent of M3 in the semis was fucking incredible. Pinch strength in another cosmos from the rest of us.

[Danny]

First British male to take gold in bouldering in modern times? Amazing. Worth a thread split surely.

[remus]

First British male to take gold in bouldering in modern times? Amazing. Worth a thread split surely.

We were chatting about it in work but had to resort to stumbling on an 8a.nu comment to work it out. The three brits before Toby were Malc (2002), Mark Coxall (2005) and Andy Earl (2007).

[jwi]

First British male to take gold in bouldering in modern times? Amazing. Worth a thread split surely.

We were chatting about it in work but had to resort to stumbling on an 8a.nu comment to work it out. The three brits before Toby were Malc (2002), Mark Coxall (2005) and Andy Earl (2007).

The only place where I have found free access to complete historical data on previous world cups is on the fr.wikipedia.org. Go to https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coupe_du_monde_d%27escalade and click around. E.g. https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coupe_du_monde_d%27escalade_de_2005#Bloc

I'm sure the data can be found elsewhere, but I cannot be bothered to search again.

I will certainly not visit 8a. nu for any reason.

[remus]

I'm sure the data can be found elsewhere, but I cannot be bothered to search again.

https://ifsc.results.info/#/ is pretty good, though put together by vertical life who own 8a.

[SA Chris]

First British male to take gold in bouldering in modern times? Amazing. Worth a thread split surely.

We were chatting about it in work but had to resort to stumbling on an 8a.nu comment to work it out. The three brits before Toby were Malc (2002), Mark Coxall (2005) and Andy Earl (2007).

In recent times, has anyone men other than Max podiumed?

[danm]

First British male to take gold in bouldering in modern times? Amazing. Worth a thread split surely.

We were chatting about it in work but had to resort to stumbling on an 8a.nu comment to work it out. The three brits before Toby were Malc (2002), Mark Coxall (2005) and Andy Earl (2007).

In recent times, has anyone men other than Max podiumed?

Good question. Toby's third podium with this 1st to go with his previous 3rd places in bouldering and lead. Permission to start frothing for Paris Sir?

[Teaboy]

Did anyone else enjoy Alanna Yip(?)’s co-coms?  It consisted mainly of nosies and exclamations and added some real fun to it. Toby reminds me a bit Oraine Bertone when she emerged on the scene, often whack beta but just super determined and absolute draw dropping strength.

[Reprobate_Rob]

First British male to take gold in bouldering in modern times? Amazing. Worth a thread split surely.

We were chatting about it in work but had to resort to stumbling on an 8a.nu comment to work it out. The three brits before Toby were Malc (2002), Mark Coxall (2005) and Andy Earl (2007).

Didn't Barrans win one in China back in the day?

[edit] - Just looked it up and it was 3rd in the World Champs 2009

[T_B]

First British male to take gold in bouldering in modern times? Amazing. Worth a thread split surely.

We were chatting about it in work but had to resort to stumbling on an 8a.nu comment to work it out. The three brits before Toby were Malc (2002), Mark Coxall (2005) and Andy Earl (2007).

In case you’re keeping records it’s Mark Croxall.

[wasbeen]

First British male to take gold in bouldering in modern times? Amazing. Worth a thread split surely.

We were chatting about it in work but had to resort to stumbling on an 8a.nu comment to work it out. The three brits before Toby were Malc (2002), Mark Coxall (2005) and Andy Earl (2007).

In case you’re keeping records it’s Mark Croxall.

... who incidentally coached Toby at Craggy Island in his green salad days. Being around there at the time, I think it is fair to say the coaching setup was a long way ahead of its time.

[jwi]

I thought this video was interesting. Found out two things.

1. A somewhat out-of-shape Megos (out of shape for comp style bouldering) would just barely get into the women't final, and that mostly thanks to his reach.
2. Germany has no national team training centre or anything like this, and must drive to France or Austria to train. (The French complains that they only have two centers, and those not on the A or B team don't have everyday access...)

[remus]

2. Germany has no national team training centre or anything like this, and must drive to France or Austria to train. (The French complains that they only have two centers, and those not on the A or B team don't have everyday access...)

I was struck by this too. Seems weird given that the german walls I have been to seem pretty amazing from a general punters perspective (large, loads of shiny holds, big bouldering areas, lead walls with hard routes etc.) You'd have thought they could carve out enough space somewhere in there for some comp style boulders and a spray wall.

[Muenchener]

Yeah, there really doesn't seem to be anything. The Freimann wall in Munich generally has some routes in the 9a-ish range that are used for state & national trials and training, but that's still just a public wall that happens to have some harder routes, nothing like the glory that is Innsbruck.

The Bavarian state youth squad used to train on a grotty little spraywall in an attic at Thalkirchen, coached by Chris Hanke and Monika Retschy. Those were the days.

[jwi]

I was struck by this too. Seems weird given that the german walls I have been to seem pretty amazing from a general punters perspective (large, loads of shiny holds, big bouldering areas, lead walls with hard routes etc.) You'd have thought they could carve out enough space somewhere in there for some comp style boulders and a spray wall.

An acquaintance of mine (we train together about once a year) has a son who had some good youth results in international comps, and he said that it was difficult for his son to find somewhere to study as there were only really two French cities you could study in if you also wants to compete internationally.

One of the gyms here often hire international route setters to set hard boulders, but apparently that is far from enough for the style of senior comps as big connected coordination moves require at least 5-6 metres of width where there are no other holds to hurt yourself on when trying to execute. This was all according to him, but he has also climbed on international level and has been very involved in the local competition scene for twenty-thirty years and usually knows what he is talking about.

A lot of people can get to V16 on a small woody, but to compete on the world cup you need government supported facilities or family wealth.

In Sweden there is one gym in the middle of nowhere that set some international comp style boulders on empty walls in a back room, but that is payed 100% out of the pocket of the owner of the gym.

[Wellsy]

Team GB used to train in Unit E at the Works, do they still go there?

[edshakey]

Lots of the GB team seem to spend a lot of time at City Bloc in Leeds, but I think Unit E is still the main hub? Not 100% sure though

[danm]

Team GB used to train in Unit E at the Works, do they still go there?

Team GB is the name of the team of all participating sports which goes to the Olympics. GB Climbing have a contract to use Unit E as a dedicated training facility during weekday hours. The situation in Japan is interesting given their obvious success. They have a huge number of bouldering walls, and most of them have comp style holds and setting at a wide range of difficulty levels including the very highest. That gives both progression in the style and plenty of stuff to train on at the top end. I strongly recommend folks watch Toby on the last problem if they haven't already. One of the best bits of comp footage ever shot imho.

[NaoB]

Rockover (original Manchester centre) has a large area that was built specifically for GB bouldering and I know they do still use that for team training with purpose-set comp style boulders. Tom is very generous and enthusiastic about helping the team. I'm fairly certain he funded it all himself originally at least.

[SA Chris]

I strongly recommend folks watch Toby on the last problem if they haven't already.

Is that the Blue prob with black volumes on his IG? If so, what a fight. From what I've seen, noticed a lot of hard shouldery oppositions and presses in the probs at Brixen, has this started to feature more, or have I just not really been looking hard enough?

[Dexter]

I was just reading this topic followed by the cordless fan one and it got me wondering. Is there any rule on using fans at IFSC competitions? If not then why doesn't every athlete have a fan with then for in between every attempt?

[SA Chris]

They have a crowd of fans already

[Bradders]

Just seen this:

https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cs_Td9Ora5S/?igshid=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==

Was that the intended beta? Outrageous!

[SA Chris]

Is this series of bouldering comps a bit more intense than usual? having 2 or more on back to back weekend must be knackering if you have gone to finals each time. And intend doing the lead comp.