[sherlock]

Is this series of bouldering comps a bit more intense than usual? having 2 or more on back to back weekend must be knackering if you have gone to finals each time. And intend doing the lead comp.

It's hard enough just watching in this heat!
Prague we were stood on burning sand in full ☀️
Just about to leave Innsbruck hotel for Women's Final, a little more shade there...,.
Not really complaining ofc,it's been great!

[edshakey]

Just seen this:

https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cs_Td9Ora5S/?igshid=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==

Was that the intended beta? Outrageous!

Think so, lots of people did it that way - looks like a crazy move but some of them make it look pretty casual 

[edshakey]

Oh my word, is Janja back!! No wonder she was emotional, that was amazing - no one else flashes entire rounds like she does 

[Bradders]

Classic Janja flashing problem 3 while no one else can do it 

[edshakey]

If we were amazed by 4 men in semis for GB previously (which I definitely was), then 3 men in semis for Belgium is at least as good! They've always got a few people around, with modest success, but to have 3/3 of their entrants into semis must be pretty huge.

And as I write this, Lorenzi and Collin are provisional top 2. Could become a very good day!

[jwi]

Looked like a quite Fontainebleau-style semi! Lots of slopers and bad feet.

[Bradders]

I was just reading this topic followed by the cordless fan one and it got me wondering. Is there any rule on using fans at IFSC competitions? If not then why doesn't every athlete have a fan with then for in between every attempt?

Noticed that during the women's final athlete intro Natalia Grossman came out holding a little handheld fan. Sure I've seen pictures of people waiting for their turn with bigger fans backstage too. Personally I'd be sat in front of mine for as long as possible!

[jwi]

Today I learned that it is apparently ok to toe- or heelhook the rope below the last draw clipped to stop the swing. I know quite a few routes where this help.

[crimpinainteasy]

Today I learned that it is apparently ok to toe- or heelhook the rope below the last draw clipped to stop the swing. I know quite a few routes where this help.

You're being intentionally dishonest here, getting your leg caught in the rope is the same as pulling on the rope to aid yourself. In the cases of Janja and Jessi it was clearly a disadvantage, the rope pulled Jessi off and almost pulled Janja off.

[jwi]

For sure I'm going to start to accidentally toe-hook the rope to stop the swing on the lip of Osmose. That and accidentally standing on the bolt on the second crux and I can get to the final crux in a lot better state.

I don't think Brooke would have done the move without cheating, probably not Janja either. But who knows? No one.

[crimpinainteasy]

If you stand on the rope while climbing outside it's on you to be honest with yourself about whether or not it assisted you. In the context of comp climbing I don't think it's fair to punish athletes for a situation like just now where A- They weren't trying to cheat and and more importantly B- It's not clear whether it even gave an advantage or not.

[duncan]

When Ondra was penalised for standing on a bolt in the 2019 World Championships it was not completely clear that he had touched the bolt, almost certainly accidental, and probably didn’t help him.

Today what happened was completely clear, probably accidental, and in a couple of instances looked to have helped at least a bit.

Can anyone tell me how this is less worthy of a penalty?

[jwi]

I cannot read their minds so I don't know if it was on purpose.

[Muenchener]

I cannot read their minds so I don't know if it was on purpose.

Do you really think competitors as experienced as Janja Garnbret and Jessica Pilz might seriously believe they could gain an advantage by deliberately doing something dubious that the judges are definitely going to see?

[sirlockoff]

rather unfortunate fuckup from the route setting team with that rope-madness, that said I do appreciate the decision as a 'viewer', but probably unfair to athletes, rules shouldn't be bent like that

[jwi]

Chaehyun Seo clearly got robbed of a podium and I cannot understand how anyone can think otherwise

[Duma]

Did the Koreans appeal? Seems pretty clear cut. (I've not seen it, just going on what's said here)

[jwi]

Yeah, they appealed. Some judge had a lengthy discussion with Brooke Raboutou

[Bradders]

I'm clearly missing something here, presumably this was during the women's finals route in Villars?

Having watched it I can't see even a hint of anything controversial. Around move 25/26 Janja got her leg caught behind the rope but it didn't look to help her at all, if anything it looked like a hindrance! There were a few times for various competitors where it looked like they were being short-roped, and Brooke had to pull through slack at least twice, but again this seems more a hindrance.

What am I missing?

[crimpinainteasy]

I'm clearly missing something here, presumably this was during the women's finals route in Villars?

Having watched it I can't see even a hint of anything controversial. Around move 25/26 Janja got her leg caught behind the rope but it didn't look to help her at all, if anything it looked like a hindrance! There were a few times for various competitors where it looked like they were being short-roped, and Brooke had to pull through slack at least twice, but again this seems more a hindrance.

What am I missing?

In semis Brooke, Janja, and Jessi got their leg caught in the rope while moving for hold 35 and some are arguing it potentially gave them an unfair advantage due to the drag from the rope pulling them up the wall.

[Wil]

In the video at 43.55, 54.17 and 58.26.

Given how they've treated infringements with fixed objects (bolts/banners) in the past it's interesting that this was deemed not worthy of penalising. It's a pretty significant drag for all 3, and the rules don't make any allowance for whether they gained an advantage.

[Bonjoy]

That would absolutely invalidate a redpoint or an onsight outside. Questions of intentionality, or advantage don't come into it.  Remarkable that it was deemed okay in an international competitions.
Not penalising sets a precedent and leaves judges and competitors open to a world of pain and problems in future when competitors are forced to decide whether or not to take this sort of advantage when it's on offer. Followed by back peddling and acrimony when the IFSC are forced to rethink the position.

[IanP]

Agree with most people on here - really strange that this was allowed, obviously not acceptable to hook the rope like that irrespective of whether it was intentional or not.

And as I understand it all three would still have made the final on 35+ anyway so that seems to make it even easier to just apply the rules straightforwardly (though obviously that shouldn't come into the decision making).

[Duma]

That is fucking outrageous, def should all have only got 35+
How on earth can the IFSC get something so obvious so wrong?

[Aussiegav]

It’s a rope dab. Where’s the dab police??