the shizzle > beta - bouldering

nothing's safe caley

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haydn jones:
What's the beta for the first couple of moves. The top is fine just getting there I had no idea what to do. Lots of ways to try it. None of which seemed to work!

Bradders:
James Turnbull, Will Buck and I had a session a couple of years ago and figured it out. James managed to get it done, and has a video of it, so worth asking him. I've not been back to it since.

It's one of those that's a lot easier to describe when stood underneath it, but basically you need to rock left a long way, pressing into the groove, then move back right once stood up on the starting handholds. Very weird and not obvious at all. No idea if that's how it was done originally, but was the only method we could make work.

T_B:
Holds have come off since the FA. It’s a long time ago so memory etc but I pulled a fairly decent undercut off at the start.

36chambers:
I was under the impression that John Dunne originally did it off a hand jam, but I can't remember where I got that idea from. In The Archives someone does it off the small LH undercut with their right heel slotted behind the obvious start flake :sick:. I'd imagine Turnbull's beta is probably the best way to go.

haydn jones:
Ok I tried the hand jam and the heel hook method but couldn't get either to work. The hand jam might if I put shit loads of tape on. It didn't occure to me to rock all the way over to the groove and then go back right so will definitely try that.

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