[andy popp]

Am I the only one who really wishes that gunky crack and all the rock right of it was not there? I know the problem is miles from it and in no way compromised by it ... and BoD is super aesthetic in it's absolute simplicity and purity ... but still ...

Anyway, incredible effort from Will; laser focus on doing the business.

[wasbeen]

The individual moves must stack up as some of the hardest moves anywhere. Has anyone else repeated the first move?

[remus]

The individual moves must stack up as some of the hardest moves anywhere. Has anyone else repeated the first move?

Toru has definitely done it, maybe Shawn as well? I think will said 8A+ as a single move.

[Will Hunt]

The individual moves must stack up as some of the hardest moves anywhere. Has anyone else repeated the first move?

Toru has definitely done it, maybe Shawn as well? I think will said 8A+ as a single move.

1st 8B/+
2nd 8Aish
3rd 7Cish
4th 7Bish
5th 8A

(source: reply to a comment on this post https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cq5r3t9RoW8)

[Will Hunt]

there are a few posts scattered about, but this is probably what you were looking for

2nd ascent of Burden sweepstake, place your bets:

Aidan Roberts
Will Bosi
Vadim Timonov
Shawn Raboutou
Giuliano Cameroni
Other

I'll tentatively go Timonov

I was thinking of earlier than that, around the time or in the first few years after it was done. I think Will still would have been a comp/route climber then and I'm not sure how well known Aidan was.

[Bradders]

The individual moves must stack up as some of the hardest moves anywhere. Has anyone else repeated the first move?

Toru has definitely done it, maybe Shawn as well? I think will said 8A+ as a single move.

Yeah they've both definitely done it. Vids available of them both.

[cheque]

I was thinking of earlier than that, around the time or in the first few years after it was done. I think Will still would have been a comp/route climber then and I'm not sure how well known Aidan was.

Favourite for the second ascent?

That bare foot guy

That’s from the day the FA was announced. No more in that thread, it’s mainly people talking about the film.

[Bradders]

From that thread, this is a great post:

Just been going back through his instagram posts about the project. He tends to write quite long descriptions so a good story is told as you go back through the years. Starting 163 weeks ago...
"Tried this amazing new project yesterday! It's a very pure boulder with straight forward and thuggy frontal climbing. No trickery, just raw power! This will be a really hard one! #bouldering #climbing #island"

https://www.instagram.com/p/d34fcpSEr- 163w
https://www.instagram.com/p/ecWG2aSEo2 161w
https://www.instagram.com/p/fPdtwlSEnC 158w
https://www.instagram.com/p/fiHl6KyEpX 157w video..getting excited about nearly doing the first move
https://www.instagram.com/p/gBTqK6yEr2
https://www.instagram.com/p/gS6wGZSEpx
https://www.instagram.com/p/nXtEdRSEmQ 130w project is wet
https://www.instagram.com/p/oGcw7ZSEhL 127w finally does the last missing move
https://www.instagram.com/p/oLqlU_SEu4
https://www.instagram.com/p/odtrtryEl9 126w
https://www.instagram.com/p/pEfV6cyEl4 123w leaves it for another summer
https://www.instagram.com/p/tXzNV2SEix 108w back on it
https://www.instagram.com/p/t5SK6QyEjK 106w every move in a session
https://www.instagram.com/p/uQcB5OyEn2 105w almost linked in 2 parts
https://www.instagram.com/p/ux4XICSEsv 103w
https://www.instagram.com/p/0LNWV0yEng 84w
https://www.instagram.com/p/0aeI3lSEpz 83w
https://www.instagram.com/p/0xr_a0yEif
https://www.instagram.com/p/1sn-iaSEg9 79w Einstein famously said: "Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results"
https://www.instagram.com/p/3Gv3PuyEkw 74w
https://www.instagram.com/p/9oPbZKyEvc 50w does it from one move in to the top!
https://www.instagram.com/p/BDWHpIXyEhe 30w
https://www.instagram.com/p/BDszkZLSEsy 29w woods, graham and webb join in
https://www.instagram.com/p/BD8fyrYyErl 28w
https://www.instagram.com/p/BEyThXBSEs- 25w vid
https://www.instagram.com/p/BE8ujrZyEsw
https://www.instagram.com/p/BFZGD-TSEo7
https://www.instagram.com/p/BFl3Th5yEr4 22w long post about the frustration
https://www.instagram.com/p/BLToTs5ggwd 2w vid
https://www.instagram.com/p/BL9H0OSg8Fc Sent!

Slow day at work.

I miss Nalle.

[sirlockoff]

what a wad! I had no doubt of his ability to send it, matter of time, but got a bit worried that it is going to get too warm, and that would have sucked, to try and keep his form / injury-free for the next season

sounds like alphane could settle as soft 9A and burden as hardish/mediumish based on the effort, there is something surreal about sport climber being basically the strongest boulderer.

wonder which route he goes to now, maybe looking for some 9c sport route, or more 9A boulders, it also feels like 9A+ boulder should be possible, if not with this generation then next.

also hopefully will upgrades honeybadger to 9A 

[Bradders]

Theorising...if the first move is 8B on its own, and the other moves are 8A, 7C, 7B and 8A then for something to get 9A+ it will need to have at least two 8B single moves on it plus some other hard moves, or something like two 8C sequences back to back with no rest. Doesn't sound utterly incomprehensible when you think about the level some of these guys are operating at.

[User deactivated.]

Will flashes 8B+ yet a move that took him 10 sessions (on the replica) is only 8B? 

I'm sure the Alphane right project was described as 3 8C's in a row at some point? Maybe the sequence has changed as it seems like it could go soon judging by Aidan's comments on his podcast.

[yetix]

8b move is so vastly different to an 8b+ boulder

[Will Hunt]

Will flashes 8B+ yet a move that took him 10 sessions (on the replica) is only 8B? 

The replica is harder though, innit. Not just the slicker holds but they're further apart as well?
We'll never know how quickly he might have done the moves without prior replica practice.

Also what yetix said.

[yetix]

To add context I'm fairly sure in his podcast aidan said he'd rather do 3 8C boulders in a row than 3 8B moves ontop of each other or something along those lines (perhaps I'm misremembering)

[wasbeen]

8b move is so vastly different to an 8b+ boulder

But why is that? There are plenty of hard boulders with effectively a single move surrounded by mush?

When lots of 8C+/9A boulderers have taken several sessions to get or not get the move. I would have thought the first move was fairly solid at 8C/+. What am I missing?

[yetix]

Can you name a cutting edge boulder that's one move surrounded by mush?

[monkoffunk]

Surely accurately grading a single move is basically impossible and they are only just giving some kind of context?

Really what we need is some form of calculator where you input the distance between the holds, their angle, size and coefficient of friction.

[User deactivated.]

Can you name a cutting edge boulder that's one move surrounded by mush?

I accept the idea that a one mover is different to a longer sequence at the same grade, but to answer your question, I think Ryuichi's Floatin is supposed to be a relative one mover?

[Duma]

https://www.instagram.com/p/CrB1L4ctXrR/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Some nice early pics of when it was first found/tried

[ferret]

Can you name a cutting edge boulder that's one move surrounded by mush?

I accept the idea that a one mover is different to a longer sequence at the same grade, but to answer your question, I think Ryuichi's Floatin is supposed to be a relative one mover?

Good footage of it here

First move is clearly the crux but the rose (which he drops one time) and the drop down look hard. The next 3 moves or so don't appear to be a gimme either

[yetix]

didn't Ryu fall off floating after the first move many times? And said the 2nd crux is 8b ish?

[User deactivated.]

Yeah it seems I got Floatin wrong, but based on his grade breakdown it has a harder move than BOD!

[jwi]

It is a lot easier to agree upon a grade of a climb that has more moves thanks to the averaging effects: with few exceptions, if someone finds one move easier for morphological reasons, they are likely to find other moves harder. The more variation in moves the smaller the variation in opinion on the grade. When discussing breakdowns of routes into boulderproblems we often disagree on the grades of the individual problems but rarely on the overall route grade. Central limit theorem, innit?

Thanks to a slight tendency to grade for how the climb feels for those who are the most advantaged, one move wonders are always graded harshly, as there is always some little shit who can do them with relative ease. (A friend of mine thought that Hale Bopp was 7b, but then again he is 2m tall and springy.)

[monkoffunk]

https://www.instagram.com/p/CrGeNBatv6G/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Few more comments from Will suggests won’t be seeing any downgrades on Alphane any time soon.

[Aussiegav]

Surely accurately grading a single move is basically impossible and they are only just giving some kind of context?

Really what we need is some form of calculator where you input the distance between the holds, their angle, size and coefficient of friction.

Heads Up: watch this space for the B-Grader app. 
New technology to generate money & replace the fundamental principles of grading using experience and thoughts of climbers.  :