UKBouldering.com

Will Bosi has repeated Burden of Dreams (Read 79471 times)

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13583
  • Karma: +692/-68
  • Whut
https://www.instagram.com/p/CrGeNBatv6G/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Refreshing clarity and lack of bush-beating there. "These are the likely grades, deal with it" .

Also I'm with Jwi, I hate those little shits that boulder problems are invariably graded for.

Sasquatch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1988
  • Karma: +153/-1
  • www.akclimber.com
    • AkClimber
Can you name a cutting edge boulder that's one move surrounded by mush?

off the wagon

yetix

Online
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 626
  • Karma: +33/-0
Many have fallen off after hitting the first move?  If the 2nd move was mush then I highly doubt Matt Fultz would come off having stuck the first move clearly quite well

Sasquatch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1988
  • Karma: +153/-1
  • www.akclimber.com
    • AkClimber
I'd presume that is more to due with doing the first move poorly rather than the second move individually being that hard.  I would guess someone here can speak to that personally though.


yetix

Online
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 626
  • Karma: +33/-0
I edited between your response, see above for a vid of Matt Fultz.

Edit again

Also I'm sure a Japanese climber  tried using heels etc to not have to do the rose but instead match etc but I can't find a vid right now, if the rose was super easy why would people opt for that?

I do think off the wagon is the best suggestion yet though personally.

Found the vid of Ryu:

https://www.instagram.com/p/B5cKVOcjUGC/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
« Last Edit: April 17, 2023, 07:02:35 pm by yetix »

remus

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2982
  • Karma: +152/-1
I edited between your response, see above for a vid of Matt Fultz.

Edit again

Also I'm sure a Japanese climber  tried using heels etc to not have to do the rose but instead match etc but I can't find a vid right now, if the rose was super easy why would people opt for that?

I do think off the wagon is the best suggestion yet though personally.

Ryuichi Morai https://www.instagram.com/p/B5cKVOcjUGC/

Giuliano Cameroni was also trying a pretty different sequence on the low for a while, going to some filth in the break rather than doing the big throw and rose move.

yetix

Online
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 626
  • Karma: +33/-0
Thanks remus, doesn't sound like it's over after the first move of the stand then.

Sasquatch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1988
  • Karma: +153/-1
  • www.akclimber.com
    • AkClimber
Thanks remus, doesn't sound like it's over after the first move of the stand then.

Agreed.  I stand corrected. 

I'll try to think of another :)


yetix

Online
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 626
  • Karma: +33/-0
Maybe should got in the significant FAs thread but Guliano has done Solar Plexus FA which is by the sounds of it an 8B+/C move into 7C climbing (I'm assuming the 7C climbing after couldn't change the grade of the first move and therefore that the first move must be the grade of the boulder?) https://www.instagram.com/p/CvP7rE9tK8X/?igshid=M2MyMzgzODVlNw==

Just felt kind of relevant to the hardest moves discussion here. Perhaps that should haves a thread of its own?

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal