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Will Bosi has repeated Burden of Dreams (Read 78016 times)

Bradders

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alphane will get down graded

I really don't get where this comes from at all. If anything, it's the one with the strongest consensus; four ascents all agreeing with 9A.

It would not be surprising if he had done it though. And his ascent of Alphane was rather daftly shrouded in secrecy until a big coordinated reveal, so at the moment this is all we have to go on!

Nail on head. I don't begrudge it too much though if Lattice and whoever else have bankrolled his trip and made it feasible.

At least this time it's been balanced out by the consistent sharing of the process throughout, which has been absolutely awesome to see.

ali k

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Interesting watching that old vid back and seeing Daniel Woods struggling just to hold individual positions never mind linking a move or two!

Ged

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I still don't believe he did it. There's no way he held that swing.

Re first of the grades always being hard... Someone famous has chatted about that recently I'm sure. Maybe will on the jamcrack? Saying that will always be the case as people are very reluctant to offer a new grade unless they are certain it will be.

Well done will.

yetix

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Shame the climber intoview says only say bosi and shawn have done 2 9as each, ignoring lorenzi who has said that he felt big island sit was harder than alphane... And shawn didn't seem to get on well with big island at all.

Edit 2**
« Last Edit: April 14, 2023, 01:03:36 pm by yetix »

Ged

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Interesting watching that old vid back and seeing Daniel Woods struggling just to hold individual positions never mind linking a move or two!

But in fairness, he hadn't spent 10 days working on a replica of the problem.

Bradders

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Shame the climber intoview says only say bosi and shawn have done 3 9as each, ignoring lorenzi who has said that he felt big island sit was harder than alphane... And shawn didn't seem to get on well with big island at all.

Belgian's may be cool, but apparently they're easily ignored.

gme

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alphane will get down graded

I really don't get where this comes from at all. If anything, it's the one with the strongest consensus; four ascents all agreeing with 9A.

Will seemed reluctant to say 9A and suggested two 8C+s seemed harder. Lorenzi suggested it was easier than SS which has been suggested at 8C+ by one of the three ascensionists. 

wasbeen

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It would great to hear from Nalle now. Perhaps the burden has lifted somewhat.

One thing that struck me from the Jam Crack podcast, was how Will was inspired to try BoD by Shaun and Aidan trying it, likewise Alphane. I wonder if they will be inspired or put off BoD now(?)

Stewart

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Brilliant news.  He mentioned a few things to do back in the UK. Would love to see a new 9A boulder in Scotland.


  :popcorn:

gme

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I have heard Scotland coming up a few times recently from more than one. Would be great to see. Pretty sure there must be some amazing stuff to do.

dr_botnik

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Brilliant news.  He mentioned a few things to do back in the UK. Would love to see a new 9A boulder in Scotland.

Surely "Scottish VS" would suffice, despite Gresh's eGrader?

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Amazing. Could fill an entire post full of these to describe it:  :strongbench: , just really exciting news. I've appreciated Will's psyche and drive throughout from the board replica to the mission to do it to live streaming his efforts. And the conclusion is "Of course it's fucking 9A" . It would be nice to hear from Nalle, i hope he's (almost) as psyched as Will is!

Danny

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Burden feels iconic in the same way that Action Directe is. Both being first of the grade (shhh, re: Hubble); both being short and hard, with no tricks; both attracting the attention of the best; both demanding a bit more in terms of training. It's well cool that Will has made his mark here—I don't overly dislike the Mellow lot, but I think it's ace that the second ascent has gone to a humble, geeky, and distinctly less cool Scot.

Bradders

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alphane will get down graded

I really don't get where this comes from at all. If anything, it's the one with the strongest consensus; four ascents all agreeing with 9A.

Will seemed reluctant to say 9A and suggested two 8C+s seemed harder. Lorenzi suggested it was easier than SS which has been suggested at 8C+ by one of the three ascensionists.

He's literally just said it's soft 9A.

Quote
I think it's harder than Alphane but not much harder. I could see both being the same grade but Burden being solid and Alphane being soft.

Lorenzi said Alphane and Soudain Seul are both 9A:

Quote
My second of the grade

MarkJ

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Time for Shadowplay !

andy moles

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Christ. I was just going to comment that it hadn't taken long for someone on UKC to mention Shadowplay.

The shadow of the G is long indeed.

AMorris

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Fantastic effort Will. Between him and Aiden, it feels like climbing is coming home.

The shadow of the G is long indeed.

It has to be for us all to live in it.

gme

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alphane will get down graded

I really don't get where this comes from at all. If anything, it's the one with the strongest consensus; four ascents all agreeing with 9A.

Will seemed reluctant to say 9A and suggested two 8C+s seemed harder. Lorenzi suggested it was easier than SS which has been suggested at 8C+ by one of the three ascensionists.

He's literally just said it's soft 9A.

Quote
I think it's harder than Alphane but not much harder. I could see both being the same grade but Burden being solid and Alphane being soft.

Lorenzi said Alphane and Soudain Seul are both 9A:

Quote
My second of the grade

I was talking about alphane not burden.

Andy F

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I mean seriously, the hardest, most famous boulder on the fucking planet is repeated by a bearded Scotsman and you lot are whinging about other 9A's.
It's fucking Burden of Dreams. The bouldering equivalent of repeating Silence. Fuck me, what an achievement. By Nalle and Will.

Andy F

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Thinking about this, 24 days is less than half of what it took Mark Leech to climb Cry Freedom. A quarter of what it took Ste Mac to climb Rainman. And a fuckton less than it took Nalle to establish BoD. Yeah, I know repeating stuff is easier than putting it up but Jesus fucking Christ, that is something quite special.  How hard will 9A+ be?

thunderbeest

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Thinking about this, 24 days is less than half of what it took Mark Leech to climb Cry Freedom. A quarter of what it took Ste Mac to climb Rainman. And a fuckton less than it took Nalle to establish BoD. Yeah, I know repeating stuff is easier than putting it up but Jesus fucking Christ, that is something quite special.  How hard will 9A+ be?

Maybe it Is 9A+?! With so many guys now bouldering at the highest level, and them teaming up I think bouldering is gonna go forward quickly.

Ged

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Thinking about this, 24 days is less than half of what it took Mark Leech to climb Cry Freedom. A quarter of what it took Ste Mac to climb Rainman. And a fuckton less than it took Nalle to establish BoD. Yeah, I know repeating stuff is easier than putting it up but Jesus fucking Christ, that is something quite special.  How hard will 9A+ be?

Not to take anything away from the achievement, but is that a realistic comparison? I mean both cry freedom and rainman have a huge number of moves and complexities to figure out, let alone the lack of videos to study, and replicas to train on. A session on an replica, of a 6 move problem, with videos to give you beta, is surely worth about 5 sessions of figuring out a route that's never been done?

remus

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Will Hunt

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I tried searching but to no avail. I'm sure it's been mooted on here at times who might do the first repeat of BoD and when. I don't think anybody had their money on the speccy Scottish kid  :)

36chambers

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there are a few posts scattered about, but this is probably what you were looking for

2nd ascent of Burden sweepstake, place your bets:

Aidan Roberts
Will Bosi
Vadim Timonov
Shawn Raboutou
Giuliano Cameroni
Other

I'll tentatively go Timonov
« Last Edit: April 15, 2023, 11:55:46 am by 36chambers »

 

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