So here is a question for you people: How to do you differentiate between objective and subjective danger? I rather climb a 6b without any protection at all then a 6b with OK protection but with large sections on really loose rock. I would find the former pretty safe and the latter really dangerous.
I put in 7a+ for PGMG but think thatís mainly because I onsighted it. In the Llanberis guide it gets 7b and I was going well that year, so could well be. I might have put well protected but itís got a bit of a wiggy bit at the start.For Lord I put 7a and a bit runout. But thatís probably not fair as there is that bit low down thatís protected by hooksÖ
Honestly, I canít even see why this is a matter for serious debate.
Apparently Black Magic is E7 or E8
Quote from: mrjonathanr on April 09, 2023, 11:50:25 amApparently Black Magic is E7 or E8What did you put in for Black Magic? I put 6c and very runout which gives hard E5 which is spot on. Entering 6c+ and dangerous gives easy E6 which isnít miles off.I wonder if the problem isnít that the egrader gives too high an E grade, but rather people are overestimating the French grade and/or danger that they are entering for routes?
Is it possible you're at cross purposes between Pentire and Pex Hill?
Dunno - sounds hard and scary, but not E7/8 (not that Iím really qualified to comment).
I guess it partly depends how high the crux is.
The only thing vaguely comparable Iíve done is Toltec Twostep which gets E6, 6b/c - the crux is at highball boulder height (I thought english 6c or font 7a-ish). After that there is probably nothing harder than 6a, but youíd be fucked if you fell off higher up.
I think these sorts of routes are better graded in trad grades - the tech grade and an E grade is more helpful IMO than a French grade, and I wonder if they donít work as well in the egrader as the longer sort of routes where a French grade is more transferable. For example stuff like Right Wall, Resurrection etc seem to come out about right.
From about 5m up to 7m. Doesnít sound much Ö
TLDR; mathematical models for grading are more effective strategies for marketing than grading.
but I'm disappointed in Steve McClure.
This thread is the only thing I've read about the "E-Grader" , and my current conclusion is that it's staying as the only thing I've read about the "E-Grader"
As a starter I think itís useful to compare with the Darth Grader website on which it surely must owe a debt of gratitude (although this is unacknowledged/uncredited).
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