La muerte del sponsor is superb and right up my street: not steep, technical crimping punctuated by stopping places. Pembroke E6? It would also be my first 7b+ which is proving to be a bit of a psychological burden,
Quote from: duncan on April 02, 2023, 07:41:20 pmLa muerte del sponsor is superb and right up my street: not steep, technical crimping punctuated by stopping places. Pembroke E6? It would also be my first 7b+ which is proving to be a bit of a psychological burden, I remember loving that route (if finding it mildly terrifying) during a trip to Siurana when gale force winds made it nasty to climb anywhere else. Such a great feature - up the centre of a high and proud face. Unfortunately, I have no great beta / tactics advice - my UKC logbook entry was "2nd go... only just. Sustained technical difficulties - hard crimpy start and a wild finish. Bolt positioning was a bit perturbing" - which suggests just going for it is the best bet.
La muerte del sponsor is superb and right up my street: not steep, technical crimping punctuated by stopping places. Pembroke E6?.... have you seen the prices in Goma 2?? Can’t complain too much, Siurana is still great.
S. Slightly hungover. Helping out on CC aspirants meet. Climbed with Pete from Leeds at Stanage left hand. Rock felt a bit skiddy and slipped off Traversties HVS which I’ve soloed a few times including last year. Also had a foot slip leading Hearsay Crack E1 5a before I’d placed any gear. Think the lichen had retained moisture. Followed a few other decent routes. Beautiful afternoon.
T - Anston Stones. Tried Resonate and, again, could reliably get the pocket (a very high foot up and out right makes this move near static) but I just can't do anything with the two undercuts and the LH one is savage on the skin.