[dunnyg]

Looks like I might be headed to the Vercors this summer, and looking for any beta on the climbing, looking at both single and multipitch, via ferratas etc..

There seem to be quite a few guides out there, we will be staying in La Chappelle en Vercors if it all goes ahead.
Won't be up for much hard but some multipitch up to 6b ish and some single ranging from 5 to low 7s.

Can anyone recommend a guidebook for the area? I've had a look and their seem to be quite a few!

[SamT]

Got a load of beta for you, but busy at work this morning.  Will post up tonight.

We had a great time with the boys.  Lovely part of the world.

[dunnyg]

Great stuff. Will likely be some underground stuff too, so any top tips on that front also appreciated.

[SamT]

Oh wow.. right. 

I've only been down the Berger, and you'd need to be on an organised club trip with permit etc for that. 

Probs worth asking the question on UKcaving.com as you're likely to get loads of useful info on there for caving shizzle.

[dunnyg]

On the caving side, going with a few who have been before so less of a mystery.

[SamT]

Firstly, best be aware of this..
https://ukcaving.com/board/index.php?threads/climbing-%E2%80%9Cbanned%E2%80%9D-in-the-vercors.30255/
https://www.climbers-club.co.uk/sport-climbing-banned-in-france/
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/french_cliff_closures-755787

Not fully read everything, but sounds like a lot of sport climbing has been banned in the Vercors.

Are you with family? Or just mates?

We were just with family, so didn't do anything too wild.

Camped in Saint Martin en Vecors.  Quiet.

Did a via ferrata here.. https://goo.gl/maps/DQ2kbUp9xwkixqzr7 with my lad who was about 10 or 11 at the time, so pretty tame, but I think there was a harder version we could have done.  Was pretty cool though.

One day, we got the chair lift up to here.. https://goo.gl/maps/4s31DRhsk58iKeYSA
then walked up to the lake here, https://goo.gl/maps/1CnqQpvS8AM878Qr9
Wife and youngest chilled by the lake whilst I and eldest (10 or 11) hiked up to the summit of the Moucherolle.  Quite spicy on top, but stunning views off the back.

The Gorge down Les Grande Goulet is pretty spectacular.  Nearly crashed the car umpteen times gawping out the window
https://goo.gl/maps/VJwfN6W2EUKwtcUH6

And finally , if you find yourself in Grenoble, the Via Ferrata des falaises Vicat is a must https://goo.gl/maps/CHXy26EsxKaLYzFU6

From the city center, right up to the bastille above, finishes by climbing over the castle walls.  then you just get the cable car back down into town.

Sorry can't be of more assistance on the sport climbing front.

I must get back some time.

 

[dunnyg]

Out with mates, but not sure on the keen-ness of climbers, they might all be a bit underground keen... Those suggestions all look great, thanks!

The sport climbing ban looks a bit crap, but it seems like there are plenty of other crags nearby, but still a shame. Cheers for the heads up though.

[dunnyg]

It is getting closer to holiday time and I've been trying to decipher the Presles ban without an actual guide.
Is there stuff there that isn't banned that isn't won't be completely sun-baked in July? Not that excitied to fork out for the presles guide if it is not masses of use.

For future reference for others, I'm getting hold of this guide which looks good for non presles multipitch:

Escalades Choisies en Vercors, Chartreuse et Dévoluy, 2022.

[jwi]

Gillardes in Dévoluy is great in the summer. I've only done three routes (http://steepground.blogspot.com/2020/07/les-gillardes-sous-la-griffe-de-lucifer.html) there, but I know that Association de Bienfaiteurs is a very popular route of good reputation. Most people climb it as 6b with a point of aid across the roof. https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/54968/fr/les-gillardes-petite-roche-association-de-bienfaiteurs

Just outside your range is another storied route, Forts, Feignants, Frileux at 6b+ (only one pitch of 6b+ though). That'll give you a Parois de Légende tick as well!

[Hydraulic Man]

Grottes De Choranche is worth a visit although you'll need a dingy to get across...We did that after the Berger many moons ago.

[dunnyg]

Cheers, I think various dingies will be around, so will be an option. No Berger for me this time unfortunately but seem to be plenty of other holes in the ground.
Those routes look great. Just need to wangle a partner up. Definitely worth sticking the climbing stuff in. Parois de legende tick would be tres bon, I've still got quite a few left on the list...